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Morangus
04-13-2011, 09:03 PM
I have purchased at Lowes, Spectralock Mini-unit Liquid Kit (Part A/B) and the Part C... I'm tiling a bathroom floor, and above the acrylic shower surround is a 3 foot section of wall that I will also be tiling around plus 8 inches out from the shower surround in front and down along the tub (tile from floor to ceiling essentially). I have been browsing this forum for quite some time to ensure I'm doing everything correctly, but the last bit has me stumped on what I really should use.

I have 3 tubs of the Spectralock Mini-unit liquit kit I purchased at Lowes, and 2 tubs of the pre-made Tech Invision grout. Everything I read here is telling me to take the Tech Invision stuff back... I have several questions... the first, is what is the different between the SpectraLock I have purchsed at Lowes and the SpectraLock Pro Premium that everyone is raving about?

Second, the tiles on the floor will obviously go right up to the tub and also right up to the shower surround. The color of the ground is going to be the same for the floor and the wall (Antique White is what Spectralock calls it). But I can't for the life of me find an Antique White colored caulk to caulk between the shower surround and the first set of tiles on the wall as well as along the tub and the first set of tiles on the floor. Anyone have any recommendations for this?

Thanks!

- Mo

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Brian in San Diego
04-13-2011, 09:12 PM
Jason,

Return the pre-made stuff. The Spectraock Pro premium is a better version (new and improved) than the stuff carried in Lowe's. With that being said, I used the Lowe's Spectralck for two different projects in my house and was pleased with the results.

Laticrete offers Latisil 100% silicone caulk in antique white (6223).

TechHead
04-13-2011, 09:15 PM
Laticrete makes Spectralock matching silicone or acrylic caulk.

http://www.floorlife.com/dept.aspx?dept_id=04-001-009

Morangus
04-13-2011, 09:16 PM
Lowes doesn't carry the Pro Premium stuff at my location. I will have to see if I can find it at a local flooring / tile store instead. Thanks for the input and I'll have to see if I can track down the caulk as well. Appreciate the feedback!

Houston Remodeler
04-13-2011, 09:19 PM
The Pro stuff is only available in the larger units which are 4 times the size of the mini's. While it is possible to divide the larger units, you'll find it easier to work with the mini's unless you have experienced help and work quickly.

My recommendation is to stay with the mini's for this shower and use it as a learning curve for the next shower.

silvercitytile
04-13-2011, 09:36 PM
i agree with Paul. it is a bit of a learnig curve but not at all a as bad as the pre mixed stuff.

bbcamp
04-14-2011, 04:43 AM
I can attest that one mini will be enough to work with at a time. It takes about the time needed to clean up and mix a new batch for the feeling to return to your arms.:D

Check with Floorlife.com for Latisil caulk if you can't find it locally.

My Dream
04-14-2011, 06:18 AM
Since were on the topic of Spectralock epoxy grout if I may ask a question and I don't mean to hijack this thread.

In the Lactricrete coverage chart it states a full unit using a 12" x 12" tile, 1/4" thick with 1/8" spacing, coverage is 244.4 sq. ft. Has anyone found this to be close?


Tile Size (inches) Grout Joint Size Calculated Coverage Per Unit
Width Length Thickness (inches)
12 12 1/4 1/8 244.4

Morangus
04-14-2011, 07:25 AM
That's a good question Frank and one that I'm interested in hearing an answer to as well. I downloaded their Iphone app and was going to do some calculations myself, but I can't find the product they're selling at Lowes as a listed product in their app. None the less, I have purchased 3 buckets of the mini for a 5 ft x 6 foot area for the floor alone. I'm thinking I'll need 2 more buckets for the shower walls. Maybe I'm just paranoid at how much I'll need and don't want to run out once I start? *laugh*.

My Dream
04-14-2011, 07:43 AM
What I've read is there are 4 sizes:

Mini
4 mini's = 1 Full
4 Fulls = 1 Commercial

If we change the size of unit to a mini and using the same size tile as being 12"x12", 1/4" thick with a 1/8" grout then you would divide my previous coverage of 244.4 by 4 = 60.4 according to there coverage chart.

Actual coverage will vary depending on jobsite conditions, actual tile size and installed grout joint size. Use of sufficient thin-set reduces grout requirement.
Add 10% for waste, spillage and clean-up with Ceramic Tile and 10%-15% when grouting unglazed quarry tile.


Have previous members had approximately this much coverage with this size tile.......

MDK
04-14-2011, 08:17 AM
I've used SpectraLock mini's on several jobs now and found I got about 25 sq-ft with 8 x 10 tile and 45 to 50 sq-ft with 12 x 24 tile, both with 1/8 grout joints.

My Dream
04-14-2011, 08:33 AM
According to there coverage charge 8 x 10 1/4" tile with 1/8" grout a mini should cover 44.9 less 10% for wastage would make it approximately 40 sq. ft. seems you got almost 40% less coverage then stated by Spectralock. On the 12 x 24 they state 80 sq ft, which again is approximately 40 % less. Hmmmm.

WendyHMN
04-14-2011, 10:10 AM
On a floor, the coverage chart is reasonably close. There's a lot more wastage on walls. A pro might be able to match the chart, but after reading the big Spectralock thread I added about 30% to my estimate based on the calculator. I may need another mini on top of that. We'll see.

We only do a mini at a time on walls, more on floors. And do wear gloves. I wasn't careful enough and developed an allergy to the stuff. Other than that I haven't found it at all difficult to work with if you follow the instructions.

MDK
04-14-2011, 01:42 PM
Wendy's right, walls will have more waste. My 12 x 24 was a floor. Grout joints 3/32 to 1/8 wide. I used 4 mini kits for 180 sq-ft. The first 3 kits went until bucket was empty and last kit about about 1/4 of it left. I even "tooled" the joints with the radius corner of the float and put the excess grout back in the bucket. Another consideration for coverage is texture of tile surface. Mine was rough matte finish. Smoother tile would spread a little further. I'd be surprised if you got more that 35 to 40 sq-ft with 12 x 12 tile.

Edit: I did use all the part C sand.

WendyHMN
04-14-2011, 04:24 PM
Ask me again on my thread and I'll try to figure it out. No reason to hijack.

Morangus
04-15-2011, 09:23 AM
So I think I've come to the conclusion that I'll be utilizing Laticrete Multi-Purpose White Thin Set.

http://www.lowes.com/pd_40341-73069-2101-0050-32_0__?productId=1085657&Ntt=laticrete+thin+set&pl=1&currentURL=%2Fpl__0__s%3FNtt%3Dlaticrete%2Bthin%2Bset

The question is, will this work for both the wall and the floor or should I use something different on the wall? Thanks.

- Mo

cx
04-15-2011, 11:35 AM
Welcome, Jason. :)

Please keep all your project questions on one thread so folks can see what you're working on and what's been previously asked and answered. We can give it a more generic title any time you'd like to suggest one.

Our folks will need a bit more information to answer your question. Like what material you'll be tiling over and with what sort of tile.

Morangus
04-15-2011, 11:43 AM
Ceramic will be on the wall, and porcelain will be on the floor. I'm at work currently and don't have the specific brands that I am putting down. I can get that if it's needed but will have to get that later. The porcelain has the color all the way through. Thanks.

Edit: The material I'll be tiling over is Purple Gypsum drywall. It will have 2 coats of Killz primer / sealer on it. No need for waterproofing since it will be above the wet area.

Morangus
04-25-2011, 09:17 AM
Ok, so I ended up using Versabond white to lay the tile on the shower surround and I'll be using it also for laying the tile on the floor tonight. I finished the shower surround this weekend, but I have yet to grout it out. This is my very first tile job, have had some help from my grandfather in utilizing his tile saw as he did the cutting for me, and my dad helped with putting the thinset on the tiles while I was standing on the tub edge putting the tile on the wall with the spacers... The question I have is, with relation to the picture I'm going to attempt to put up here, is the decorative tile I'm using. It is on a mesh backing that provided some movement when the tile was put up, and I noticed after the thin set has dried that some of the decorative tiles are extremely tight together (not shown in this picture but should give you an idea). Some of them you can't get a butter knife in between them. The question is, when I grout this, how will this affect the grouting process? Is there any special trick to getting the grout in between as to provide a protective barrier so any water that may get splashed up on the wall won't get inside? Thanks.

- Mo

bbcamp
04-25-2011, 10:26 AM
Jason, I can't see your picture, but it sounds like you need to remove those mesh mounted tiles and replace them. It's not that you can't grout them or that the grout may not be able to keep water out of the area (it can't, no matter how well you set the tiles, grout isn't waterproof), it's that those sections will look bad and you will see them every day for the rest of your life.

WendyHMN
04-25-2011, 11:22 AM
If you're anything like me those uneven tiles will drive you crazy eventually. Pull them out. When you put them back up use some kind of spacer between the individual tiles or put blue tape all across the face of the listello to keep everthing in place until it sets.

Morangus
04-25-2011, 11:42 AM
I can't pull them out... the decorative pieces were bought with them already attached to the mesh backing... It's not that bad, it's only in certain small places, which honestly I think I'll be able to live with. I'm just wondering how I can "push" the grout into such a thin area. I'll be using spectralock grout.

bbcamp
04-25-2011, 11:44 AM
You can leave out about 10% of the solid (sand) to make Spectralok easier to drive into small joints.

Morangus
05-17-2011, 11:54 AM
I used a full tube of lacticrete silicone caulk around my shower surround and at the base of the tub, however, I think I need to fill in the joint a little more as it seems like it's sitting in too deep. I just ordered two more tubes to finish my project, however I just want to confirm I can re-caulk over the stuff I just put in and build it up a bit more, and have it adhere properly... thoughts?

Houston Remodeler
05-17-2011, 12:25 PM
Jason,

Some people have reported that silicone will not stick to cured silicone. I have never had that problem. Give it a try and let it cure a week. If it peels off you've lost nothing. If it sticks, you're golden.

dhagin
05-17-2011, 12:28 PM
You can confirm this by calling Laticrete Tech Support if you'd like. If you recently installed and the caulk surface isn't contaminated/dirty, then new stuff should stick just fine.

If it's contaminated/dirty, I'd wipe it off with a paper towel dampened with denatured alcohol first. Let that dry thoroughly, then have at it. :)

Morangus
05-17-2011, 12:41 PM
No, this is completely new, and the shower hasn't been used yet. So nothing is dirty. I'll give it a shot... thanks!

cheakamus
05-18-2011, 12:58 AM
I hate to be a naysayer, but my attempt to do what you're wanting to do was a complete failure. I was trying to add a layer of latasil caulk over the line of latasil caulk I had installed a week previously, which I felt was too deeply inset. I retaped the joint, filled the depression, and removed the tape. The line of additional caulk looked neat enough, but didn't really seem adhered. Sure enough, when I attempted to smooth it further, the whole thing turned into a gigantic smeary mess, which I then had to remove with copious amounts of toilet paper. I wish you better luck than mine. If I were you, I'd do a small test strip first, so in the event you have to remove it, it won't be such a big job.

Morangus
05-18-2011, 02:29 PM
Thanks John... so what did you end up doing?

dhagin
05-18-2011, 02:47 PM
Hey Jason, i think Laticrete makes a primer for use with Latasil. You might want to check their site or call tech support. I think it'll work, but what do i know.... :D

latasil:
http://www.laticrete.com/Portals/0/datasheets/lds62001.pdf

primer:
http://www.laticrete.com/Portals/0/datasheets/lds65281.pdf

Morangus
06-04-2011, 10:28 AM
Good Afternoon! So I attempted the re-caulk overtop of what was already there, all new caulk, clean, no problems... today, I got down by the tub where I was installing some new trim and notices that in several places over top of the original caulk, the new caulk has cracked during the curing process. Anyone ever run into this before? Safe to just a small amount over top of it to fill in the cracks?

Houston Remodeler
06-04-2011, 10:30 AM
Jason,

Did it crack or did it separate from the surface? Got a close up pic?

Morangus
06-04-2011, 09:49 PM
It appears as if it cracked. Let's see if this picture thing works :)

100529

cx
06-05-2011, 07:29 AM
That's Latisil caulk in your photo, Jason?

Morangus
06-05-2011, 12:34 PM
Yes it is.

Houston Remodeler
06-05-2011, 01:55 PM
Jason,


What is that periwinkle colored surface in the upper left corner of the pic?

Morangus
06-05-2011, 03:37 PM
That is the new bathtub. The material is called vikrell.

cx
06-05-2011, 05:03 PM
Just doesn't look like something a silicone caulk could do. :scratch:

I'll see can we get a Laticrete opinion here.

hbrothberg
06-05-2011, 05:24 PM
Jason:

May I have one of our technical support people call you to chat with you about your installation ...?

Please send me a PM with your phone number and the best time to call you.

Thank you.

Henry

Morangus
06-06-2011, 09:16 AM
PM Sent

Morangus
06-06-2011, 02:09 PM
Well, I got a call from a Lacticrete rep... he seemed rather annoyed that he was calling me, and after I explained to him what has happened, his response was "remove everything and re-do it"... at $20 a tube and just over 1 1/2 tubes to do in front of my tub... I think I'll first attempt a repair when I go to backfill in around the shower surround rather then remove everything...

bbcamp
06-06-2011, 02:11 PM
How deep and wide is that joint?

Morangus
06-07-2011, 05:49 AM
60 inches long, a little over 1/2 inch deep and 1/4 inch wide at the ends.

bbcamp
06-07-2011, 05:50 AM
Did you fill it completely with caulk? If so, that's too deep. Caulk should be about half as deep as it is wide. Use foam backerrod to fill the joint so your caulk is about 1/8" thick at the center. You might find backerrod in the weatherstripping section of your big-box store.

Morangus
06-13-2011, 09:21 AM
Thanks for the replies and insight to the caulk issue... now that that is resolved, I have another question... The fine details are starting to haunt me I know! Anyway, I painted the ceiling this weekend in my bathroom with a bathroom paint that is latex based for moisture and mildew resistance. Looks great, however paint got down behind the tape that I put up on the tile that is above the shower surround. I haven't caulked between the tile and the ceiling yet, and planned on doing that this week, however after taking the tape off yesterday, I found dry paint about 3/8" from the top of the tile down and it's on the Spectralock grout... the question is, what can I use on the grout to get the paint off the grout without discoloring it? Will paint thinner work?

WendyHMN
06-13-2011, 09:52 AM
Leaping in to say don't use paint thinner on latex paint, whether or not it's on your grout. Thinner is for oil based paints only.

Have you tried scraping lightly at the paint? Often latex paint drips aren't very well adhesed. After that, a scrubby with water is a good bet. Or a little dish soap.

Winter River
06-13-2011, 10:03 AM
Like Wendy said, gentle scraping will probably do the trick. If that doesn't work, there's a product called Oops! that is made to remove dried latex paint. As always, check that it doesn't harm anything before you use it.

Morangus
06-13-2011, 10:33 AM
Thanks I've got oops at home already... used it on crayon from kids drawing on my pourous brick fireplace hearth! LOL.. I told you it's always something... anyway, I'll give gentle scraping a try first and see if I can get it off without the need for Oops first. Appreciate the reply!