Turning Kerdi curb on its side. [Archive] - Ceramic Tile Advice Forums - John Bridge Ceramic Tile

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Car Man
04-07-2011, 03:59 PM
I find myself having to completely re-do my master bath because twenty years ago when my home was built the tile setters didn't bring the bladder six inches up the wall nor did they bring it up and over the curb. Needless to say, I had to gut everything down to the studs and rip out part of the kitchen ceiling drywall (below) as well. My opening after I put the 5/8 drywall in is 60 inches by 38 inches. I plan on using the Kerdi shower kit with curb included. If I put the curb in as specified I will be 2 inches short on the shower pan. However, I'm thinking, if I turn the curb on its side it will fit perfect. Since I don't have the kit in hand I was wondering if the curb is slightly sloped for the water to drain back into the shower? If so, I know what I have to do; center the pan and fill the edges with some mortar. Any comments or advice? This project has taken way too long so far but now I am ready to tackle the final part. I have had a bit of experience setting tile but an expert I am far from.

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dhagin
04-07-2011, 04:40 PM
Hi Jim, :)

The shower tray could be placed tight to one side and be off center by 1", which may not be noticeable depending on the tile size. The height difference at the perimeter by being off center by 1" would definitely not be noticeable.

Not sure about the curbs, only set 1 at a training. I believe they have some voids, which could be filled with deck mud if you laid it on it's side. Also, not sure if they have a square cross section or trapezoidal. They can be cut & shaped with a handsaw pretty easily if needed. The top of tile should slope in towards the shower drain, so plan accordingly.

Either way, having a tray only 2" less than the opening gives you plenty of good options. :)

Lazarus
04-07-2011, 05:14 PM
Just fill the "voids" with morter and cut a slight slope with thinset to get the proper drainage.....

Car Man
04-07-2011, 06:56 PM
Hi Laz,

A question for you: is there a law somewhere (tile set or mudman law) that states the curb has to be six inches high by four inches wide? What are the damages if those dimensions are reversed? Will it look too odd or will the sliding glass doors not fit properly? I'm just curious... :shrug:

mossypath
04-07-2011, 07:26 PM
The prefab curb is 4' to match up to walls . A 2 by 4 + 2 layers of 1/2" = 4" . The curb is 6" to make sure you have the 2" you need above the drain in a shower . The curb is easily cut down if you wish and when I have used them I have . What I dont like is that curb you have with that kit is made without a slope so you have to adjust it some .
I had asked why and was told to many people where putting them in backwards .

WendyHMN
04-08-2011, 08:07 AM
I was wondering why the slope wasn't built in. I'm actually happy with that because I'm planning a stone curb top that will be flat on the outer half and sloped on the inner so the door won't catch.

The voids in the curb are large, so you'll want to fill with something like deck mud, not thinset. You also won't get that nice suction effect when you install it. We were shocked at how tight the vacuum held the curb down.

tileguynky
04-08-2011, 08:12 AM
Another option is to center the pan in the 38" opening and fill the 1" gap with sand topping mix. This will keep the perimeter fairly level. Keep in mind that since you will be drywalling one side, your opening will get smaller before the Kerdi pan is installed.
Posted via my hip hop rocking iPhone

Car Man
04-13-2011, 03:18 PM
Sooooo, no one thinks I should turn the Kerdi curb on its side? I was told it was six inches high by four inches deep for aesthetic purposes mainly. I can see it matching up to four inch walls though. I don't have that problem as my shower walls are perpendicular to my curb as I assume most would be.

Houston Remodeler
04-13-2011, 04:15 PM
Dana, Laz and I think you can. Just fill the voids with thinset.

dhagin
04-13-2011, 05:03 PM
I believe they have some voids, which could be filled with deck mud if you laid it on it's side.

That's 3 that say OK. You can call Schluter if you want more confirmation.

As I mentioned above, lots of good options. :)

mossypath
04-13-2011, 07:48 PM
Sure it would work , If I where trying to do what you are going to do, I would drill 1 1/2 holes in the side of the curb a few times ( your new bottom ) to give it a little more hold to the floor . Thinset down then fill the bottom holes in the side .

dhagin
04-13-2011, 07:59 PM
I would drill 1 1/2 holes in the side of the curb a few times ( your new bottom ) to give it a little more hold to the floor . Thinset down then fill the bottom holes in the side .

Now there's an excellent idea. Good thinkin Tammy. :)

Car Man
04-14-2011, 03:47 PM
Thank you all for your responses. Tammy, I think you have a great idea. So you mean to drill the Kerdi curb side (my new bottom) with inch and a half holes. How many and how far apart do you suggest? Then thin set the floor and then fill the holes with more thin set before I install it on the floor?

mountain eagle
04-14-2011, 04:25 PM
A question for you: is there a law somewhere (tile set or mudman law) that states the curb has to be six inches high by four inches wide? What are the damages if those dimensions are reversed? Will it look too odd or will the sliding glass doors not fit properly? I'm just curious...

The curb is 6" to make sure you have the 2" you need above the drain in a shower

I'm curious too. Is that a hard and fast rule? I'm hoping that my plan for building my curb in deck mud when I do the floor will be okay. Using a proper .25" slope to the longest distance wall and level everywhere from there. This will be a Kerdi shower/ Ditra main floor and it will be banded with kerdi on the seams. The shower wall will be glass. Given the size, the rise will be about 1" from the drain. I was planning on letting that be the top of the curb ........ no? Do I have to have a vertical rise at the shower opening?

Houston Remodeler
04-14-2011, 04:37 PM
In my fair city, as long as the top of the curb is 2" higher than the top of the drain cover, then you're good to go. Distance plays a big part in this figuring.

mossypath
04-15-2011, 12:48 AM
Jim ,, You would want to still fill the holes with deck mud . Thinset is not made to meant to be used that thick and could shrink and crack causing you to loose your strength .
I still think after all that you are much better off using the curb the way it was meant to be used or make your own .

Just asking ,,, what are you going to cover this curb with ? After tile on both sides some bullnoses back to back will be to small . Thresholds you can buy off the shelf are not usually over 5.5" . It all can be done just want to think ahead :tup1:
I can see what you are trying to do but I think you should rethink just holding your tray out from the wall and filling the space with mud . using the curb upright and cutting it down so it will not sit so high .
Are you using a shower door ? and what kind ?

Car Man
04-23-2011, 12:02 AM
Just got my Kerdi pre-fab shower kit. The curb has holes in the bottom. Why? Just curious. Now I know why I need to fill the pre-existing ones if I turn it on its side. Are the holes meant for better adhesion? I think the jury is out... better to use the curb the way it is designed and fill the void on the front and back of the tray with mud. And their will be sliding glass doors opening to the shower (or a shower rod and curtain if I run out of money :crap:

Tool Guy - Kg
04-23-2011, 01:54 AM
The jury isn't out. Your question has been answered. Do as you like, just make sure to fill those holes if you do turn the curb on its side. :tup2:

Are the holes meant for better adhesion?...no, not really. If you wanna get technical, maybe it's better to describe it as more "traction". But the issue is kinna moot. Once the Kerdi is wrapped from the pan to the curb, everything becomes a single unit and it's not going anywhere. :shake: It becomes quite strong. :)

But if I was 2" short and this was my shower, I'd extend the width of the shower pan rather than extend the curb. Why? Because I'd rather have that room on the floor to stand rather than taken up by a wider curb. Extending the shower floor is easy enough to do like mentioned earlier. Just center the pan in the opening and fill in either side with deck mud. Easy enough, eh? :nod: