Refinishing Hardwood

[kalford]

Guys,
I've got a Hardwood floor in my living-room that needs to be refinished.The house was built in the '40's I think.The floor is in good shape structurally but cosmetics need some attention.
My thoughts were to sand it and spray on a couple coats of polyurethane.I don't want to darken the wood.What process should I use and what products do yall recommend?
Thanks,
Keith

[Edited by kalford on 06-10-2001 at 01:25 PM]

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[John Bridge]

Keith,

You've got the process down all right. I'm not sure about the polyurethane, though. I know years ago we quit using it on Saltillo and went to acrylic. I could be all wet on this. Launch a post over at Dave Spreen's Flooring Board. Those guys know the products.

http://www.humboldt1.com/~dspreen/board/index.html

[Bud Cline]

Keith,

I've done a few over the years and get great satisfaction from doing one. A drum sander is the machine of chioce along with an edging machine. These tools can be rented at most tool rental houses. But be super careful if you've never used a drum sander, those suckers can ruin your life in very short order.

Depending on your floors actual condition, you may only need to screen it with a circular floor machine, also rentable.

The finishes are usually applied with a sheepswool type applicator and not sprayed. You can get a perfect finish with one of those guys.

Around here everyone uses sealers and finishes made for gymnasium floors, need I say more about that? I can get the names if you want them. The last product I remember using I think was called Gym-Kote.

If you follow John's advice and go to Dave's Place several guys there can give you all the details. I think Glenn Sohm is into woods, you might look him up over there.

http://www.humboldt1.com/~dspreen/

[kalford]

I appreciate the responses guys.I've heard of Gym-cote but I don't know anything about it.I'll get over to D.Spreens and see what they have to say about the finishing products.Thanks again.
Keith Alford
"If You Don't Know.........Fake It"

[chip]

Don't you just hate those darn DIY'ers.

Now by god, there are wood flooring pro's who.............

Why does that sound familiar?

Art

[kalford]

I'm gonna call around and whoever will do it the CHEAPEST..................

Keith Alford
"DIYer Extraordinare"

[Bud Cline]

DIY'er Extraordinaire,

I know this doesn't sound like me but what the hell....

Keith just "go for it". You can do it. Hell screen it first and see what happens, if you meet with unsatisfactory results then hire it out.

"I think I can, I think I can, I think I can". "I DID"!

[Sonnie Layne]

Damned, I had a four paragraph diatribe built up, had to hit delete and start over. Suffice to say I'm a premier floor finisher in Dallas. If you run into problems, dont' ask these mudmen, they'll talk you into setting granite slabs or (chuckles) tumbled lime/marble!!!

They'll steer you right about the stone/tile, but don't listen to a single word they say about the treatment of the fibre of wood and it's repair. Better talk to Dave S.

I'll abbrev and say it ain't rocket science (much like setting tile {damned, I wish I hadn't said that}) If I can teach real folks in the aisle of Home Depot in less than 30 min. surely I can teach you with umm.... about 6 hours of typing, but no prob...that's what the pro's forum is all about.

Now, any chance I could talk you into a 5 day job instead of a 3 day job? Involves making your own shellac, but the rewards... oh well, maybe too artsy!

laughing still

[kalford]

FIVE DAYS!?!? I was thankin more like 2. Hey,maybe I'll just put down that self stick vinyl stuff.lol

O.K. Sonnie,
Another small concern before we delve into this minor undertaking.......It's loose in places..squeaky.Might as well take care of that now, huh.The subfloor is in pretty good shape.1x6's on a 45 over 2x8 joists on 16"center.The floor butts up to a mudbed fireplace hearth with quarry-tile 2' x 4' roughly.I plan to redo the fireplace face and hearth with marble.It's framed arond the hearth with a 1 x 3.

[Sonnie Layne]

Keith, sure it can be done in two. One loooong day for sanding/staining/sealing the other looong day for finishing, but you'll be pushing it. Depends largely on the type finish and how many coats you want.

As per the squeaky loose existing, here's what I do (and it's not etched in stone) locate the squeaks, mark em with a lumber crayon, have a helper, a hefty one will work better apply weight to the area while you sink some screws ( I use #8 stainless roberts) from underneath throught the sub into the finished floor. Alternatively, I have... pre-drilled holes through the area and sink "finish" screws through the flooring into the subfloor. The holes will be filled with pooky, I like Famowood filler, it stains nicely. If the squeaks are occuring in the subfloor and not the finished floor, you've gotta tackle that from underneath. Best to apply blocking (if between joists) and screw the mess down to the new blocking. I have in the past had some luck by glueing/screwing a piece of 3/4" ply from underneath. More screws are necessary as you're trying to pull several pieces of sub together to the plywood plate. Always use subfloor adhesive.

Now reading your post again, I see you don't want to stain, that's cool, it'll save at least one step. As far as products, I've known and loved shellac for years but I'd probably be talkin to the wind (otherwise known as blowin in the wind, hehe). My second favorite right now is acrylic urethane, it doesn't yellow, dries fast (you can put down three coats easily in a day, four with a second wind). I generally mop all but the last coat on with a wool applicator. Sand between with 180 grit or finer. Last coat is brushed in and leveled nicely. (I can get into that detail as well, later) Bonkemi http://www.bonakemi.com makes wonderful professional products. I have used a Benjamin Moore product simply because I know the chemists and know that they pay attention and it's readily available in most areas. Theirs is called ummmm "Stays Clear". Available in soft gloss and gloss.

Deal with the squeakers first, that'll add half a day to the project for sure.