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DBSKI
02-22-2010, 08:37 AM
I'm remodleing our bathroom and I run into a problem. The bathroom is 5 foot by 9 foot and had a firberglass tub/shower combo. We plan on replacing the combo with a 3-wall alcove soaking tub with a tile surround and tile floor. here is what I have done so far. The old tub was removed, the grey plastic plumbing was replaced with copper. The OSB was rotten around the toilet, I removed and replaced the OSB with Plywood. Here is where the problem lies, the actual measurement between the studs where the tub is going is 5'-0 1/2".
The tub has left hand plumbing, I plan on notching the left and back walls for the tub lip so the backer board will lap proper.

What to do on the right wall? after notching the gap will be about 7/8" to 1"

Do I remove the remaining drywall on the right wall shim the studs and re-drywall or can I just layer the drywall and backer board?

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bbcamp
02-22-2010, 08:55 AM
7/8" to 1" is a lot of space to be filling with drywall or backerboard. Remove what's there, then sister the studs to achieve your proper overhang. Sistering will also help straighten the wall if there is any problems with it now.

Houston Remodeler
02-22-2010, 09:01 AM
Bski,

Welcome to the forum.

You're doing too much work ! Framers are supposed to make the distance between the wall studs 5'0" on a good day. But a good framer will make it a little larger due to the fact that some tubs aren't made like swiss watches and don't fit in so well.

You have a few choices:

1- the traditional method: A - without trimming the studs, shove the tub as far back as possible. Then shove it to one side. Pick the side where it would be trickier to thicken the opposite wall. B - take a nice 4 foot level and check to see if the wall studs are plumb and level. Make any adjustments to get them that way. Sister studding, shims, planing down the surface of the studs all are acceptable. C- add blocking for niches, shelves, grab bars D- insulate and hang drywall / cbu

2- So you don't have to stand in your new tub and scratch it up method: The same as above but swap out A & B.

The drywall / cbu sets above the lip of the tub, not inside the flange for a few good reasons. We'll skip that part for now. Since the drywall / cbu is normally 1/2" that will make up for any extra width the framers mis-measured strategically calculated into building out the bathroom. The tile will have added thickness to the wall to further overlap the flange.

Got any pics? we like pics.

DBSKI
02-22-2010, 09:14 AM
Paul,
Your saying that the backer board butts up tothe tub lip and the tile extends down to the tub.

custombuilt
02-22-2010, 09:20 AM
yep, you put your 15lb felt on the wall and run it down over the tub lip and then the cbu sits just above the tub lip.

Or your drywall sits just about and the kerdi runs down over. either way!

DBSKI
02-22-2010, 09:26 AM
Jason,
So I center the tub in the stud opening, shim the studs at the tub anchor points and anchoe the tub.

Houston Remodeler
02-22-2010, 09:31 AM
Yes,

You can also get some of that expanding foam in a can to anchor the tub to the floor, provide sound deadening and insulation which keeps the water in the tub warmer longer. The foam will hold the tub firmly in place. Get the kind in the blue can, it expands less, and is denser.

bbcamp
02-22-2010, 09:39 AM
Paul, Dow's website describes the Blue stuff: "Soft, pliable foam is forgiving, easier to remove if gap is overfilled. Cured foam can be stuffed back into the gap without trimming."

They describe the regular stuff: "Cures rigid"

It seems to me that the blue can isn't what you need to support the floor of a tub. To keep the regular stuff from expanding too much or moving the tub, fill the tub with water first, then spray the foam in short bursts, allowing the foam to finish expanding before adding more.

Houston Remodeler
02-22-2010, 09:43 AM
I'll grab a can of the blue stuff and check it out today. The last can I used dried as hard as the rest of the other two. I know with any of the 3; red, blue, and black - you can shove the extra back in while it is curing but before it gets rock hard.

DBSKI
02-24-2010, 08:33 AM
I have a few more questions and attached some pictures. The first two are the existing bathroom. The next is the new floor and the area where the new tub will go. And the last is where the problem is it appears to be mold behind the insulation. I trhough that the window was leaking at first but when I removed the insulation from above the blocking there was no mold. I checked the liberry and sprayed the aera with the mixture.The question is what do I do next?

bbcamp
02-24-2010, 08:40 AM
Let it dry, then start your construction. I would guess that replacing the insulation with the the next step.

DBSKI
02-24-2010, 08:58 AM
Bob,
After it dries unfaced insulation,cbu,kerdi,and then tile?

bbcamp
02-24-2010, 09:08 AM
Yes, except you can use drywall instead of CBU. I would also remove enough drywall to expose some of your faced insulation (say 6 or so inches) and install a plastic sheet, so about 6 or so inches hangs down where the Kerdi will go. This eliminates a gap in your vapor barrier with out excessive overlap.

Houston Remodeler
02-24-2010, 09:12 AM
regular ol' white drywall. Not green, not purple, not pink. plain old white.

DBSKI
03-05-2010, 08:13 AM
Im looking for some ideas on how far i should go with the tile. The ceiling slopes up about 16" from the door to the tub. I did this so that the window would fit above the old tub. I going to use a 9 x 13 tile in a brick pattern up about 4 feet then some type of inlay and then continue up from there. Should I stop just below the shower head? or the window trim? or go all the way.

DBSKI
03-20-2010, 11:27 AM
Is this ok to do? Hardi board, Versa bond, then Ditra