Framing tub alcove / surround [Archive] - Ceramic Tile Advice Forums - John Bridge Ceramic Tile

PDA

View Full Version : Framing tub alcove / surround


MaxProphet
02-14-2010, 06:04 PM
Hi and thanks in advance for your suggestions. I am remodeling a bath with an existing 30” tub. I was really hoping to squeeze a 32” into this alcove and don’t mind a slight protrusion as I can always fur out the interior sheetrock, however, the back wall is framed with 2x4 lumber and I really need to shave an inch here. I am now finding out that anything less than 2x4 construction is not recommended for Hardibacker, Durock, or other similar solutions. Is there a solution that I can use or a solid methodology of framing with something lower profile (2x3, metal studs) perhaps on a shortened center? I will not compromise the rigidity of the install for the wider tub so if need be I will bite the bullet and return the tub I currently have for a 30” model. Any suggestions?

-Kevin

Sponsored Links


scuttlebuttrp
02-14-2010, 07:27 PM
You can't bump this wall an 1"?

Edthedawg
02-14-2010, 07:31 PM
did you already notch for the tiling flange on the tub? the notch oughta buy you something. How much ledge do you have to work with?

MaxProphet
02-15-2010, 11:32 AM
I didn't think of this. So you are implying to notch the flange deeper and lose a bit of the ledge on that side if I have it to give? In this case I think I will as the tub has built in arm rests and I plan to do some shelves for soap, etc. I do not have the tub in hand yet as it was ordered so when I do I will take a look. In regard to waterproofing - if I notch deeper what would be appropriate to fill the gap between the flange and the backer? Thanks.

In response to the other post - I can't move the wall as its existing construction and on the other side is a stairwell so the bottom-plate can't really move.

So far I think the combination of a deeper notch and some furring strips for the bathroom sheetrock may work.

Edthedawg
02-15-2010, 12:12 PM
You gotta pick your waterproofing method, but if you notch so the boards can sit fully over the ledge, you oughtn't need more than silicone back there to keep any water from wicking.

You might wanna sketch out a cross section tho, just to make sure we're thinkin' what you're thinkin' :)

MaxProphet
03-07-2010, 07:50 PM
I got my tub and indeed need a full 32" and have 30" framed. I was hoping the apron had some "sides" to it so it could protrude slightly but no such luck.

Any fundamental (bite me later) issues if I notch my studs a full 1" deep and 2" heigh to take the tub flange, as well as, pick up the full 1". I would then fur out the studs in the room 3/4" so the finished sheet rock would protrude 1/4" or so beyond the top apron creating a caukable joint.

What do you think? I wish I had a drawing but don't have one right now.