View Full Version : Tile-Redi *Use Caution*
02-01-2010, 08:14 PM
Just wanted to share my experience with this company (Tile-Redi). I saw their product at a local Mendards (special order) and was intrigued. It looked like a great idea and a fool-proof way to do a tile shower.
I ended up ordering a 60"x37" pan with flashing for my bathroom remodel. Set me back $690, I considered it a small price to pay for the peace of mind in knowing that my shower could NEVER leak.
My pan arrived in a timely manner... and heavily damaged. Not their fault if the freight company broke it. They sent a second one out pronto, and it too arrived in a timely manner. Unboxed it, and it looked fine. Until I stood back and eye-balled the front curb. It was bowed up about 5/16".
So at this point I'm done. Get the RA Number and send it on it's miserable way back. It arrived at their facility on Jan 20th. On the 28th I call because I haven't been credited any money back to my Visa. They say they will do it right away and it takes 2-3 business days. Today is Feb 1 and still no refund on there. If it's not on there by tomorrow I will have to go through the headache of disputing the charge with VISA.
After doing more research I think my end project will turn out nicer without this thing, but I wanted to get the word out about this company before they take more people's money.
If anybody has had different results feel free to prove me wrong.
02-01-2010, 08:34 PM
Thanks for sharin' your experience with a Tile-Redi product, Kevin.
Don't know that Tile-Redi will care for it much but.... it is informative.
One question please:
At about $700 for the fiberglass pan..... do you remember if it had a 1/4" slope (or thereabouts') per linear foot to the drain from each side?
Tool Guy - Kg
02-01-2010, 09:53 PM
Sorry to hear, Kevin. I'm sure you can use that money to pay for quite a bit of your materials.
Feel free to study the Shower Construction Info (a collection of posts) (http://www.johnbridge.com/vbulletin/showthread.php?t=5434) in the Liberry and ask as many questions as you may have about your project. We're here to help. :)
By the way, I loaded your photos onto the forum from the off-site host so they are visible without clicking on links. Some folks are leery about clicking on links and this saves everyone time. :)
02-01-2010, 10:52 PM
Yes it's sloped correctly. However it would take some time to tile it well if you order a left or right drain instead of a center drain. It creates some funky angles in the floor around the drain.
I'd be interested to see how they suggest you actually install the damn thing. None of the walls around the outside are straight, and they don't tell you to fasten them to framing members, so I'm not sure how you are supposed to square the unit up before tiling. They just tell you to set it in mud.
When I called about the bow in the curb the guy I talked to didn't sound surprised or offer up any tips to install it. He just agreed that I couldn't use it and sent a return authorization number.
As for them not liking the bad press... too bad I guess. If the product was impressive I would probably create a post saying so. Nobody to blame for it but themselves.
02-21-2011, 01:44 AM
I have just installed the redi tile shower pan and hope my input can save someone else a lot of trouble. I have serious doubts about the tile sticking to the pan with the epoxy setting, and have other issues. When installing the last row of tile as I was pushing tile into place the 6'' splash wall flexes and pushes the tile out past the upper row of tile, also flexed during grouting, now I know there is no way with that flexing that grout will not crack. I used laticrete epoxy grout. I am so sick that I ever went with the pan, take some advise DON'T do it stick with the tried and true mortar pans. Now I'm afraid after all this work we will be forced to tear out and put in mortar bed. You have been warned.
02-21-2011, 02:00 AM
Dave I just posted about our experience with redi tile and I hope someone else will see this post and not use, it is junk and has a lot of issues. I have no doubt within 6 months we will have to remove.
02-21-2011, 06:13 AM
There have been a few folks on the forum that have had success with the Tile-Redi pans. Like any product, defects in manufacture can occur, to say nothing about the damage that can occur in transit.
I like the concept but there are two issues that make it unlikely I would ever consider using one of these pans.
1. The cost.
2. Having to use epoxy to set the tiles to the pan.
Make a custom mud pan, use the KerdiDrain and Kerdi the shower interior. Set your tile and grout. :tup2:
02-21-2011, 08:22 AM
Danny, did you look at other options before you decided on the tileredi pan? I am in the process of researching options for redoing my master bath shower.
02-21-2011, 08:47 PM
Danny, I have installed several of the TILE-Redi pans with great success. They are not cheap. I dont like working with the required epoxy thinset. I feel like it didnt give me enough working time. But those pans have been in for several years and Im still in contact with the owners so I would know if there was any problems.
Did you fasten the pans to the wall studs? Did you set the pan in a thinset bed?
02-22-2011, 01:48 PM
Hammy, are you supposed to fasten the side walls to the studs. I didnt see that in the video Tileredi has on their website.
02-22-2011, 08:15 PM
I dont know if youre suppose to fasten them, but I always have in my installs. I felt something needs to hold it in place. Never had a problem. You know how that goes.
It sounds like the Tile Redi shower pan installation you are installing requires additional mortar to fill any high and low areas underneath the shower pan which may be causes a flex. The shower pan should not have any flex if installed correctly. The side splash walls do not need to be secured to the side splash walls. The shower pan once set into a mud bed should free float once all areas of the substrate and underside ribs are filled per installation instructions. Tile Redi technical support can assist you with your installation to make sure a your install goes smooth. Please contact Tile Redi at 1-800-232-6156 and press ext 202 for assistance.
02-22-2011, 09:18 PM
Farrell, Glad to see you here.
Hammy ( aka Tom Hambrock )
02-28-2011, 09:18 AM
I am now grouting my Tile-Redi 37x60 shower project. It is rock-solid! I used grey Versabond to set it with a 1/2x1/2 trowel so there is a lot of thinset under it. As it had three stud walls around it, I was able to take and screw a 2x4 to the base plates on the open front to lock it in place while it dried. I had a bit of thinset creep out under the 2x4 but later chipped it out with a brick set.
Had I known the perils of working with the epoxy Laticrete product that came with the base, I would have taken my chances with using Versabond. I used 3x3 mosaics on the floor and the stuff was a gooey sticky mess without much working time. I had a couple that weren't well bonded (sounded hollow) near the drain. I pulled them up to replace them and the product had pretty well set up. It was like trying to use silly putty to put replacements in. Ugh.
Also, had some penetrate up through the grout lines. No wiping it off! I ended up just letting it dry and sawing it out with my muli-master. Other than the mortar, I have been very pleased with my tile-readi base. It was very expensive (and $50 for a square satin drain trim is ridiculous!) but probably my best option.
03-01-2011, 11:29 AM
I am starting to think that maybe mudding the shower base is just the best route instead of a pre-formed pan...seein as how this will be the first time i will be doing this, any recommendations on books to read before i get started?
03-01-2011, 03:17 PM
on how to mud a floor? Check out our rather extensive (and free) library. Best start a pot of coffee first and tell the Missus you'll be a while.
03-01-2011, 11:51 PM
Thanks Paul, i was reading through some of the articles last night. i was looking at the mud calculator. It looked like if you are using a kerdi drain, you do not have to create a pre-slope before you mud in the sloped base. am i understanding that right?
a couple other questions.
1)any experience using the mark e industries items to help get the slope right when mudding.
2)for the curb, is it necessary to use 2x4's? if so, how are they secured to a concrete slab sub floor?
3)last one, does john's kerdi book cover how to dry packing the base then putting kerdi membrane up?
03-02-2011, 12:19 AM
1) Never used them and haven't heard from many pros who have. I also haven't heard anything bad about it. Do a search in the upper right box and see what pops up! :D
2) On a concrete substrate you want to use bricks rather than wood. Wooden 2x4's may leech moisture out of the concrete and swell. And, you know, no real way to attach them that will last. You can use regular bricks or the gray concrete bricks without holes in them and use thinset to install them directly to the floor.
3) Yes. If you're doing kerdi it's one of the best investments you'll make!
03-02-2011, 07:59 AM
Did a tileredi 60"x42" pan three months ago; set it in a 1/2" of dryset mortar tight and flush against the stud framing on all three sides. It's been rock solid, and i even used 1" slate mosaic for the pan floor; as for adhering the tile to the pan i mixed the epoxy a bit loose (less silica sand than suggested) so it was akin to slightly thicker pancake batter.
as said, the epoxy thinset is a huge PITA, the working time is close to nil; and the pan is expensive, but other than that; it was a quick install and i /know/ that its one piece waterproof construction, so it shouldn't be a point of failure.
i do recommend their redi-flash system, or an equivalent made of roof flashing material to form a positive 'lap' of the backer board to the top of the pan.
03-02-2011, 10:02 AM
Thanks Roger and Raymond.
Raymond, what drove your decision to go with the Tile Redi pan? I am with you in terms of ease of installation, no need to apply liner to the pan like Kerdi. Did you put liner on the walls?
03-02-2011, 01:40 PM
I was doing a whole-house renovation, lots of tile to install, full time job etc.
While I read and understood the process of doing a 'mud' shower, I wasn't very confident with being able to get it perfect the first time around, and hammering out a failed mud bed and starting over just wasn't in the time or money budget. Or worse, an install which seemed fine but would leak a few months down the line.
I'm sure it works awesome, but also the concept of a flexible PVC liner sandwiched between mortar and lath doesn't sound very stable, I will have to try a mockup some time so i can get the feel for it.
I checked out redi-tile and the #1 thing i liked about it was: okay, it's a single piece HDPE 'pan' with an integrated drain; easy to understand.
I knew it would take a major problem for it to leak via the pan; and with proper poly vapor barrier behind it and CBU I knew I could create a shower that wouldn't leak.
I'll try and detail/quantify my experience.
Box arrived, got to it after work, dragged it upsairs, unboxed it.
at this point framing was done, drywall was soon to go in. Based on the PDF plans from the website, I had framed the opening perfectly, literally a perfect fit.
The pan sat flat on the new advantech flooring. I traced the interior drain on the floor with pencil, expanded it to fit the drain flange; the used a drill and sawsall to cut it out.
I cut some 1/4" hardie to sit under it, and also cut a matching hole into that.
Test fit it all together, it all sat flush.
mixed up a bit of versabond, troweled that to the subfloor (1/4 square notch) laid the backer in, screwed it down.
Then i mixed up some kerabond dry-set mortar as recomended, troweled that in with a 1/2" square notch trowel.
Set the pan in, shuffled it a bit, walked on it a bit to get it seated, checked it for level, all was well.
Then I screwed the redi-flash to the studs which also helped to ensure the pain remained seated during the cure; you could just screw in some temp scrap too.
This was one night of work, eh maybe 2-3 hours.
from there i stapled up 6mil poly from the wall top plate, lapping 6" for seams, and let the poly drape inside the pan (so that condensation would end in the pan.
laying up the 1/2" hardie boards was more work and took about a day for me, i saved taping for when I tile.
Tiling the pan, which was the first thing i tiled, sadly only took 45 minuets, hehe; because that is the working time of the epoxy.
trying to measure out half the quantity and saving the other half for later just wasn't going to happen save for mixing by weight, and i wasn't about to do that.
And i wasn't going to guess at it, lest my mix never cure, or cure brittle.
so i mixed liquid components A/B (resin/hardner) in a bucket then slowly mixed in part C (silica sand) i reached between pancake batter and peanut butter consistency and felt that was fine.
I did a lot of layout and prep-work before this, I was using slate mosaic for the pan floor, and ceramic 6" tile for the walls/curb; so i pre-cut and dry fit all of it before I mixed up the adhesive.
i got it all in just before it started to become unworkable, had to toss my trowel and bucket, thankfully they were both the cheap kind. pretty sure i used a v-notch 1/8" for the slate mosaic.
Working with the Latapoxy was horrible, but I wouldn't try using anything else anywhere on the pan itself.; my spider-sense tells me winging it with versabond would be an instant fail.
all told after finishing the rest of the shower with versabond and polyblend grout it all seems rock solid, and we havent had any moisture problems.
--oh and yes, of course a healthy dose of sealer over the slate mosaic and all tiles; spray application worked well for the walls.
if i was to do it all again, I would probably use the whole Kerdi line (tray,drain,curb, etc); would have saved a ton of material weight in the hardi; and the price probably wouldn't be all that different.
I read a lot about folks who have failed tile-redi installs, but that is usually before they're even tiled, mostly flexing issues, I honestly don't know how any decently handy person could botch the install especially after watching the install videos and following the instructions.
03-02-2011, 02:04 PM
Save for the inherit pains of using Latapoxy, I had no troubles with my tile-redi pan install.
As for the bow in the pan, sounds like a mfg. defect though it probably could have been solved with a decent bed of dry-set mortar.
Sorry to here about the service you have experienced at Menards and the shipment of Tile Redi. It is very rare but can happen to receive a defective pan. Tile Redi sells alot of shower pans and is having great success in the market with the ease of installation and incredible upscale finished results. In your case it seems that you have fallen under the less than 1% defective product return rate. Tile Redi stands behind all of it's products and will resolve any issue so please contact 800-232-6156 x 202.
03-03-2011, 08:45 AM
Costco sells Tile Ready products. Consider purchasing from them next time - you can just return it and get your money, including shipping back without question.
Same product on Costco.com is $579 including shipping.
03-04-2011, 08:51 PM
As an engineer / DYI'er I knew that I could build a shower pan.. but really didn't have the great desire to learn all that would be required to do it properly.
So I bought a Tile-Redi 60 x 42 pan. It came with some 'Z' shaped aluminum flashing - to go beneath the cement board and over the pan.
It took me only a couple of hours to install - the biggest pain was mixing the mortar. Overnight everything set up rock solid, with no flexing.
I mixed the epoxy thinset in two batches - did the last row/sides of the pan first, then the floor.
Worked well for me.
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