Newbie needs help applying Stonetech Bulletproof on Travertine

[courtneyk]

I apologize upfront, I'm sure this info is posted in other threads but I haven't had success finding it. I have a tan/beige travertine kitchen floor with sanded grout joints of approximately 3/8's of an inch that was installed 1.5 years ago and sealed with Stonetech Bulletproof sealer. I was told that I should seal it again in 1-1.5 years from that point (I have never done this before), can someone help guide me on the following points:

-what is the best way to apply and using what? the container says to use a paint roller but I've seen some posts that say to use towels, work in small sections and dry as I go, what's best? How long should I let it soak in before I dry? Any special tips for the grout?

-is there any special way to clean/prep the floor before I seal it?

-how many sq feet should a quart of bulletproof cover? The container says something like 15-40 sq feet but many websites list up to 400sq ft, not sure what to make of this.

-any special instructions of types of towels or pads I should (or shouldn't) use for application?

-how do I recognize hazing? Is it very obvious or do I need to look at the floor from many angle to see if it's there?

-Are there any health risks associated with applying bulletproof? should I wear a mask?

Thanks very much in advance.

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[GeorgeT]

Hi Courtney -

I think the place to start is actually "Do you need to Reseal?" Try a simple test... sprinkle some water around on the floor and the grout lines. If you find the grout or stone stone getting darker (the sure sign of absorption) then I would say it is time to reseal. Properly applied and maintained that sealer should last for several years....

-what is the best way to apply and using what? the container says to use a paint roller but I've seen some posts that say to use towels, work in small sections and dry as I go, what's best? How long should I let it soak in before I dry? Any special tips for the grout?
Recommended applicators are listed on the bottle...keep the towels for drying not applying.
Start with a small section till you get the routine of application, then increase.
Travertines can be dense... apply thin, keep the surface wet with sealer for 5 -10 minutes then wipe clean and dry. Do your next section...

-is there any special way to clean/prep the floor before I seal it?
Wash well and rinse very well... let dry then seal. Our product for preparing to reseal would be KlenzAll.

-how many sq feet should a quart of bulletproof cover? The container says something like 15-40 sq feet but many websites list up to 400sq ft, not sure what to make of this.
The range of numbers is because the absorption rate varies from stone to stone, application techniques are different, textures are different.... lots of variables... better guess? say 100 -200 sqft on honed and filled travertine with 3/8" grout lines....

-any special instructions of types of towels or pads I should (or shouldn't) use for application?
We don't recommend towels for application, however terry towels, cotton rags or cotton sheets make get wiping rags....

-how do I recognize hazing? Is it very obvious or do I need to look at the floor from many angle to see if it's there?
Hazing happens when excess sealer dries on the stone or grout surface... It is generally very obvious...

-Are there any health risks associated with applying bulletproof? should I wear a mask?
Again, follow the label instruction.... gloves, mask and eye protection are never a bad idea when using chemical products....

[courtneyk]

thanks for replying george. water does still bead up though not as aggressively as when it was first sealed, my thought was that I better do it now before i risk getting any stains, is that too proactive? should i wait until beading doesn't occur at all? also i use revitalize on a regular basis to clean the floor, can I get away with using this as a prep before sealing or would it be smarter to use the klenzall?

[duneslider]

Courtney,
I can't speak for George but my understanding is that if the tile isn't absorbing water (actually darkening when you let it sit for a few minutes) that there is no need to reseal. If it won't accept water it probably won't accept sealer either. I would wait another 4-6 months and check it again.

[GeorgeT]

Courtney,

Bryan captured it.... also remember BulletProof is a waterbased sealer. If the stone is still sealed (repelling water) it won't absorb more waterbased sealer.
Water beading is not the true test of active sealer. If water is not absorbed the sealer is functioning.... water beading will go away after awhile normally and is not a measure of the effectivness of the sealer.

[cajtar]

sorry to jump in, but if water beading is not the true test of sealer condition, then what is? Does one look for a slight discoloration (darkening) of the stone which presumably means the water is getting through? At that point, doesn't that mean that dirt and oils are getting through too?

[duneslider]

What you say is true. Luckily it is easy to check this frequently.

[cajtar]

sorry for the newb Q and thanks for the reply. So the trick is to keep on top of it. When you notice the sealer becoming less effective, clean the surface with w/ a nuetral tile/stone specific product, let dry and reseal right?

Sounds easy enough, now just have to member to do (and then get of butt and actually do it)!! ;)

[duneslider]

If you are taking good care of your floor, which I assume you are, then the cleaning before the seal shouldn't be too big of a deal.

I would recommend a good scrub with a good cleaner prior to resealing.

If your cleaning and maintenance has allowed the floor to look bad/dirty, then you will need a heavier cleaning.

[william35453]

if the tile isn't absorbing water (actually darkening when you let it sit for a few minutes) that there is no need to reseal.

well, i think that there is no way to test travertine for sealer need and that it should just be done periodically as a routine maintainance, maybe every few years. sealers do more than seal the natural porosity of the stone. there are also microscopic cracks and fissures in the stone that will allow water penetration without necessarily discoloration (at least according to my personal experiments). last year i grouted and then sealed 1/2 of a test board in a way that allowed me to inspect the back side of the grouted tile assembly. a photo can be seen of similar test on slate at http://www.johnbridge.com/vbulletin/showthread.php?p=701708#post701708. but i also did same test with travertine pieces. with this arrangement i could see if water was penetrating anywhere to the back side of the tiles. i placed a clean unprinted sheet of newsprint under the tiles which will easily indicate water penetration by discoloration of the paper (and wrinkling). surprisingly, water DID penetrate to the back through a tiny *unnoticable* natural fissure and the travertine did NOT evidence discoloration on the surface even with an overnight water exposure. when i then dried and sealed the problem area and repeated the water fill, the water penetration was stopped completely. as of this date, the arrangement has been holding water for over 120 days with no more evidence of water leaking :yipee: (as it evaporates i periodically add water to the test board setting on the shelf). oh , here it is -- photo of the travertine test - http://www.johnbridge.com/vbulletin/showthread.php?p=708357#post708357

now, i don't know that resealing is necessary for this kind of fissure situation, since i assume the sealer is penetrating deeply into the tiny crack in the tile, but just pointing out that assuming no discoloration means no water penetration isn't altogether foolproof. perhaps floor-use stresses could open up such a tiny natural fissure that did not leak earlier to the point that it needs resealing? sure, my test is extreme as it has complete water long-term immersion, but still . . . water penetrated with no discoloration. :cheers:

[cajtar]

William, WOW! I had no idea modern penetrating water based sealers were so effective. V. impressive :clap2:

So you're advocating regular intervals of sealer regardless of any visual indicators from a water test.

PS: great test, shows ingenuity. I love it when people cook up stuff like that to prove an assumption! :stirpot:

[GeorgeT]

While there is evident truth to William's testing, I would not recommend relying on sealers to fill fissures in stone. Even though it may work in some instances, bridging gaps is not what most stain repellent sealers are designed to do ...
Many people adhere to the "reseal every year" way of thinking. There is nothing wrong with that.
We believe that a properly applied and maintained sealer should give several years of service before resealing is needed. The water test is just a simple, visual way to test for water absorption.

[duneslider]

I would also like to point out that impregnating sealers aren't designed to "waterproof" a stone/system. A fissure large enough to allow water passage wouldn't necessarily be filled by an impregnating sealer. I also can't see the sealer inside a tinny fissure wearing away very quickly.

So, If the stone isn't showing darkening of absorbing water the sealer is working. If the stone is passing water then be glad you didn't set your stone on drywall.

[larob]

what is the best way to get rid of hazing from excess dried BulletProof?