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srbitz
10-05-2008, 09:39 AM
First, thank you so much for this forum, my head is swimming. I've done maybe six tile projects before, and feel pretty confident, but I've got one I don't want to screw up!
Built over my two story family room to move our laundry room upstairs. We've laid out a 7'x9' space: 3/4 OSB, 16" oc, 14" joists with the laundry in the corner of the room, leaving an L outside for a library/study space. The contractor wanted $4k to do the floor and I almost broke my jaw from it hitting the ground. Did have them rough in a standard two piece center drain, which hopefully, will never be used :).
I was planning to use 1/4" backer board on the floor, notch and replace the drywall with 1/2" backer on the walls;
Slope the drain starting at 1/4" at the drain to 1 1/2" at the wall
Red guard everything;
tile with thin set.

the preslope will be higher on the narrower side than the other because of the rectangular shape?

Is the backerboard overkill?
Can I tile over the redguard? or do I have to float a 2nd mortar coat?
thanks in advance for your thoughts.
Steve

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koihito
10-05-2008, 10:14 AM
I won't speculate on the $4000, because I don't know were you live and I don't know what he planned to do.

I see a couple of problems with your plan:
#1) If you slope the whole room, You'll have a rotten time with your washer and dryer. I know you can level them, but they will still "walk".

#2) 1/4" at the drain and 1 1/2" at the wall; what are you going to make that with? If you were thinking deck mud, you really need more like an 1 1/4" at the drain, 3/4" would be the bare minimum.

I would suggest one of the following, I've done this a few times :

Create a recessed section of framing around your drain (the easiest way is to do it between joists). Plumb a Kerdi drain and slope a small 16"x16" area. Use Schluter Ditra and Kerdi band for the floor and up the wall a couple of inches and Kerdi around the drain. It won't drain like a shower, but it will hold an average washer load of water and give you time to squeegee.

or

build a curb around the spot were your washer goes and build a small flat floored shower pan (drain and all) to put your washer in.

srbitz
10-05-2008, 11:15 AM
recess the drain so the whole floor isn't so elevated from the 1 1/4" of mud at the drain?
If I recessed and did a larger sloped area, say 3'x3', would that give me any obvious benefit? That would bring me up to the edge of the washer.
thanks for your input.

bbcamp
10-06-2008, 04:25 AM
Like you said earlier, hopefully the drain will never be used. ;) A small (1" or so) curb at the door, some sort of waterproofing at the walls and a standard floor drain fitting is all you really need. Major leaks and spills will find the drain. Minor leaks will pool a little, but will also find the drain or you'll see them and clean them up.

Your biggest concern is a hose break that shoots water across the room and over the curb (don't ask me how I know that... :rolleyes: ), so to be iron-clad, replace your hoses with stainless steel over-braid hoses, and install a solenoid valve that shuts off the water when the washer is not in use.

One last thing: if you tie the floor drain into your sanitary sewer stack, you need a trap primer to be code-compliant. If you have a separate gray-water drain, you don't.

srbitz
10-06-2008, 07:57 AM
Thanks, Bob. Here in SE Penna. they don't let us tie to the stack. drain has already been run out the house into a downspout.

If I don't replace the existing rough drain with the Kerdi system, the redgard is good to go to tile directly over? Is the backerboard and wire overkill? Should I just use felt and wire, save the extra height and do a smaller section like the 16x 16 suggested by koihito?

bbcamp
10-06-2008, 08:37 AM
I think the rough drain is OK as is. You can use Ditra for the tile underlayment because you can apply that directly to plywood (Kerdi should be installed over drywall or concrete). You can waterproof the seams with Kerdi-band. You can also use Kerdi-band to waterproof the wall-to-floor junction.

Backerboard and Redgard would also work. Remember to use the fiberglass mesh cloth for the wall-to-floor junctions. You can tile directly on the Redgard.

In either case, caulk the drain fitting to the underlayment.