View Full Version : Kerdi Question (AKA how bad did I Screw up)
08-22-2007, 07:26 PM
Mike from Ohio Here;
I am doing a shower and trying to save a buck without compromising the durability of the install. My brainstorm was to use Denshield panels for the three walls with a schluter sloped base and the schluter preformed corners. I would also use the Schluter drain since it seems to be a key component of the system.
08-22-2007, 07:28 PM
If you do the schluter floor like that then you really need to do it on the walls too. It would get way too complicated trying to make it work like you are thinking.
08-22-2007, 08:38 PM
You can use Denshield over the walls, provided you use KERDI-band over the seams and where you've made screw holes. That's a watertight installation.
The thing is... if you're going to that extent, you might as well use KERDI on the walls and save the money you'd pay for Denshield. You'd also get the full warranty from Schluter.
You can't use any other type of drain with the Schluter trays. They just won't fit. :)
08-22-2007, 09:02 PM
I see no reason to over complicate things and no clear advantage to using Dense Shield...Just sheetrock the wall(plain white rock) And kerdi from drain to ceiling.
08-22-2007, 09:11 PM
They call it the Kerdi Shower System because it's precisely that.
08-22-2007, 09:15 PM
David that's the best perspective...It is a system...I have really become a system fan...No matter what it is use all of the components as they were designed and intended. I did the opposite for so long and lost money and time trying to re-invent or improve something that was already there.
08-23-2007, 05:12 AM
I am still waiting on a price from my supplier for the Denshield, research tells me that it will be about the same as CBU. My thought was that it would still be cheaper than kerdi covered sheetrock and just as waterproof. But I am open to spending the extra cash to buy the whole system.
08-23-2007, 10:58 AM
I've looked into Denshield too (and not just this sites history :D ). I have a slab so I got the PDF's from the GP website including the drawings. My wife was also thinking bucks so she left my cell :mad: with Denshield tech support.
I wasn't to crazy about a silicone seal around the base 1/8 off the deck (NOT allowing the board to make contact with the deck) and call that waterproof.
As it happens the tech faxed me some material and so it seems the installation method has changed a bit and the website has not been updated. Now you can ease the board down to the foundation (before you deck it; yep still have to silicone) but then theres this HYDRO coating you add over the entire finish :shrug:. Anyone else hear that back-up-siren sound? :nod:
For the homework that I've done over the past several weeks Denshield + Hydro = Sheetrock + RedGuard = (some backing) + Kerdi.
I don't want to cringe every time I get in the shower, so I decided on Kerdi all the way thru.
But that still leaves the backerboard choice and from what I can tell CBU sucks water so you have to protect the inside walls; prob not with Kerdi tho, but it is stronger (and much heavier to work with). Densheild is lighter, doesn't need inside wall protection but if water ever gets in the gypsum will crumble and prob breed mold, prob not with Kerdi tho. And then there is plain sheetrock, but I'm not that cheap, ain't going to happen even with Kerdi.
Have Denshield fax you; here is the number 800.225.6119; Lets see what you find out. I'm going to be a while chipping up that liner-drain I installed; I'd like to see what you decide.
08-23-2007, 11:02 AM
Someone points it out (funny as yall are); I already thanked my wife.
08-23-2007, 03:23 PM
Am I wrong, doesn't Schluter recommend plain sheetrock for the backer under kerdi?
Thanks for the info on the Hydro coating. I can't see any savings with denseshield if it requires some kind of liquid membrane.
08-23-2007, 08:21 PM
But I guess I'm thinking I'd have a more solid wall with cement board. I read you have to wet it to apply thin-set because it will dry too fast. Maybe sheetrock is the way to go. Prob fuses with the thin-set better than crete.
My shower is in the southwest corner of the house in this humid-equal-to-the-rain-forest area in north florida five miles from the gulf. I'll continue to review, I'm still abit leery about gypsum in a shower. This shower has always been hot and damp, I want it dry and cool.
08-23-2007, 09:22 PM
Call me crazy but we now do at least 40% of our kerdi showers over plain white sheetrock. And I''l put my $$$ where mt mouth is on that....My own shower is kerdi over 5/8" sheetrock. I have hundreds of untold hours into it and wouldn't have done it if I didn't believe in it....In fact I wouldn't put anything in a customers home that I wouldn't put in my own.
Sheetrock and kerdi behind those walls :shrug:
Yep, yep, ol' Trask done used sheetrock in that little shower he's been showin' pichers of alla time, but we've seen it used in some high-end showers, too. :D
08-23-2007, 10:18 PM
I think there's been lots of us that have combined systems, and I have with total confidence that my work wouldn't fail. I'm assuming that we also knew we were on our own if they did. :tongue:
08-23-2007, 10:24 PM
Problem is we ended up doing more work to make separate components from different systems actaully function, that we'd been better off using an entire system as it was intended....PLus you usually get some manufactures support if you have a faliure.
01-07-2008, 09:28 PM
I have a "glamour tub" going in and I will be tiling the surround. I am wondering if I need to use CBU over the plywood that will be covering the surround or can I get away with redgard or nothing at all. I miscalculated a little on the height of the framework and am not certain that I have the space for thinset and CBU while maintaining the correct height.
01-07-2008, 09:51 PM
CBU is preffered. If the height is an issue, try Ditra. It's only 1/8" vs the 1/4" for CBU
01-08-2008, 06:12 AM
You're gonna notice 1/8" to 1/4"? (ditra vs backerboard)
I'm assuming a drop-in tub in a raised wood framed base. It the height problem results in the bottom of the tub being off the floor, then add some sort of spacer or support the tub with a bag of Sakrete or somesuch.
Or, maybe I'm missing the problem...
01-08-2008, 06:46 AM
I was thinking maybe the tub was already in and there was not enough room to tuck CBU and tile under the lip.
Thought Ditra might help with that...
01-08-2008, 06:45 PM
OK, I guess i could share a little more. The tub sits in a 17 inch deep wall nook and extends out an additional 28 inches at the framework (Tub is 72 x 42) Over the framework (2 x 4) is 3/4 inch high grade (but non marine) plywood. Because of the size of the tub the platform it will sit in is only 2 inches bigger than the edges of the tub on the outside and it abuts the wall inside the nook. because of the room dimensions I have to provide for pump access through the front of the framework. My plan is to apply tile to the plywood and screw through the tile and plywood to attached to the framework. The screws will be disguised as well as possible. To save weight I was hoping to go with redgard instead of cbu.
any thoughts would be appreciated.
01-08-2008, 06:50 PM
I could lay a sheet of cbu on the floor inside the frame to get the extra 1/4 inch at the lip, but then I have to put in a thin strip of cbu on the 2x4 ledger at the back of the nook.
pss And I already have the redgard so cost is not an issue
ppss? I also have extra CBU so that is not an issue either
08-01-2008, 07:34 PM
I have been working on a master bath for some time (14 months) and I am now Kerdi-ing (verb?) the walk in shower. I read the book and looked at the liberry but then I got delayed on the project (New baby, 2 new dogs) When I got back to the work I thought I remembered everything. Yeah.
I fire-taped the sheetrock before I applied the kerdi. I did not prime with a latex based primer. I did use unmodified thinset and kerdi band as well as insde and outside corners. At this point I have the kerdi band in everywhere but the curb and I have put the full sheet on the showerhead wall and the full width bench beneath the showerhead.
IS the lack of a latex primer going to compromise the installation?
How can I test it?
If it is screwed up what do i do to fix it?
08-01-2008, 08:10 PM
:eek: :eek: :eek:
Just kidding.. You'll be fine. So some Kerdi is on spackle instead of the drywall paper itself... Not the preferred installation, but your tiles wont fall off the wall.
All is good. Continue forward
Welcome back, Mike. :)
I've combined all your threads for the project here. Please bookmark this one and use it for all the project questions. Threads never get too old to bump back to the top with a new post. Keeps all the history in place for the folks who want to help to see what's been previously axed and answered, eh?
08-02-2008, 05:27 AM
Thanks for the reassurance. All ahead full. I have already primed the remaining parts with a lovely pink primer that I had left from a botched mix job and will now begin with the other walls.
Does unmodified thinset skin over faster than the modified type, or is it just my imagination?
08-02-2008, 05:58 AM
Mike from Ohio here,
I am using two preformed plastic niches (13x13) in my shower. These are the yellow ones from "The Tile Store" I notched the studs to maintain a flat plane for the sheet rock. Do in need to kerdi the entire niche or just wrap it two inches from the edge? Allegedly the niches are "ready to tile" but the plastic is smooth and a little on the overly flexible side. The guy at the tile store suggested that thinsetting a piece of hardibacker into the niche will firm up the rear wall, should I do this?
Does unmodified thinset skin over faster than the modified type, or is it just my imagination?Probably a valid observation.
Not familiar with your niches. You get any installation instructions with'em? If you've gotta reinforce'em with CBU you coulda just built some yourownself.
If they're waterproof and if they're tile-ready, you should be able to just wrap your kerdi over the edges and into the box.
My opinion; worth price charged.
08-02-2008, 01:30 PM
They might have seen me coming. No instructions, no box, bright (kids toy primary color) yellow two inch flange around 13 inch square, all recess edges pitched about 1/4 inch. Plastic most resembles lego cubes. High gloss plastic but easier to scratch. Tiny pin holes in flange for nailing to studs. Cost $45 apiece.
08-03-2008, 03:04 PM
Mike from Ohio again
I am using a 48x48 kerdi pan cut down to 41x41.5, can I use a 6x6 tile for my floor?
If yes, is the best choice for the drain surround to frame it with 4 notched 6x6 tiles?
08-03-2008, 03:26 PM
you can install the 6x6 tile on the Kerdi tray,
Schluter doesn't have a required smallest tile size to be used on the tray.
the Kerdi drain is 3 15/16" so when using a 6x6 tile your
cutting would probably be the best looking way to do it.
08-03-2008, 05:41 PM
thanks for the help, I worked out the layout to the walls and I am left with slivers (1 7/8 North south and 2 1/8 East West). I think this will not be esthetically optimal (perhaps even butt ugly) so I am trying to think my way out of this.
Can I insert a strip of smaller tile in the pattern without screwin up the outer edge? I have used a slate mosaic (5/8 chiclets on a mesh backing) for trim in the rest of the bathroom, but if i insert a strip large enough to get rid of the slivers at the walls my symmetry seems to get all wobbly.
It works good if I cut the center out of a 6x6 and lay it around the drain, but I don't own a water jet and I am not sure my dremel (the dewalt one) will cut a nice hole in a porcelain tile. Will a tile shop do this for me? COst?
Another question that has arisen is what tile should I cover my curb with? Shower floor tile or All over wall tile (this is also on the walls of the shower)?
It seems I am at the one step forward three steps back point.
thanks in advance.
08-03-2008, 06:16 PM
I use a 4" grinder with a diamond blade to cut out "from the back" the hole I want.
it's usually the tile that is on the wall that goes on the curb.
08-09-2008, 08:16 AM
Mike from Ohio again;
IS kerdi KM something I should be using for the 5 shower head perforations in my installation. My holes are not the tightest since my measuring skills seem to leave something to be desired.
Shouldn't be much of a problem up that high, Mike, but it wouldn't hurt to use'em if you got'em. If you ain't got'em, it's easy enough to make a patch with a clean round hole in it outa some scrap Kerdi or KerdiBand.
My opinion; worth price charged.
08-11-2008, 02:34 PM
I am ready to begin putting up tile over my kerdi. My understanding isd that I should use Unmodified thinset between the tile and the kerdi. But I have seen a lot of talk about using modified, I am putting up 9x13 ceramic wall tile with a lightly lugged back, should I use modifed?
I bought laticrete floor adhesive yesterday, is this good for my tile?
08-12-2008, 07:37 AM
Mike from Cleveland here;
I have seen instructions to use kerdi fix to seal the raw edges on the sheetrock at the hole for the shower control valve. WHat should this look like. I have a moen multihead (moentrol?) system and the plaster guard/hole template leaves a significant amount of empty space around the valve once the plaster guard is removed.
Do I try to coat the edge of the cut with kerdi fix?
Any reason not to use Laticrete Floor Adhesive (unmodified thinset) to hang my tile?
08-12-2008, 08:13 AM
Laticrete floor adhesive is not rated for use on walls. Use their Megabond, instead.
The plaster guard gives you room to service the valve. Cut your sheetrock close to the plaster guard, then coat the cut edges with Kerdifix or silicone caulk. Use your index trowel to smear a layer over the edge. Wear a latex gluve or put cover your finger (trowel) with a plastic baggie so you don't get a lot of silicone on your finger.
08-12-2008, 08:59 AM
Isn't the megabond modified?
I am about to open a bag of thinset to put up the last of my kerdi, i will use less than 1/3 of the bag so I would like open a bag that can be used for laying the tile. Right now I have 2 unopened bags of the Laticrete Floor Adhesive but if I can't use it for the walls I will proabably get something else that can be used both behind the kerdi and under the tile. If i have my options Lowes, HD etc. what would be the optimal choice in your opinion?
08-12-2008, 09:07 AM
Megabond becomes a modified thinset with the addition of the Megabond additive. Mixed with water, it's un-modified.
08-14-2008, 09:05 AM
08-14-2008, 05:50 PM
I got the kerdi shower kit from tile-experts and I forgot to mention the two wall niches. The pre-formed niches are 100% plastic with holes only on the flanges, which are buried under the drywall, so i only need the outside corners, but i need 8 of them and the cost is $50 just for the corners and I have to wait for them to get here. Therefore I now am trying to figger out if i should do my own outside corners.
Is there a thread that talks about how to do this? I could of sworn I saw a really good picture thread that showed someone doing the corners of a niche without using the kerdi corners.
08-16-2008, 08:01 AM
08-16-2008, 02:08 PM
If the niche is waterproof and made for tiling, you don't need to cover it in Kerdi.
To make home-made Kerdi corners, take a 4" x 4" (or larger) square of Kerdi (or Kerdi-band, it's thinner for less thickness buildup) and fold in half, then fold in have again, leaving you with a 2x2 square. Cut along one of the folds to the center of the 4x4 square. Now, fold so that one of the 2x2 flaps covers the other 2x2 flap, and you're done. Make sure that when installed, the fabric is adjusted to there only a tiny, if any, pinhole in the corner. If it is tiny, no water will leak through.
08-19-2008, 07:41 PM
My wife found the perfect color tile for the shower. It is 6x6 and we thought about cutting it and using it in a herringbone pattern, then realized that getting the correct proportions could be difficult or expensive as we could lose the majority of the used tiles to waste. Now we are thinking of cutting the tiles down to 3x6 and running them across the shower floor on a diagonal inside a frame of edge tiles.
If I cut the tile and sand the edge with a carborundum stone will the edge be noticeable?
Where do i get the stone?
08-19-2008, 07:58 PM
Where do i get the stone?HD, Lowes or a Local Tile Shop near you should have a stone.
08-19-2008, 08:02 PM
I was at HD today and all they had was a brutus stick (kinda like a knife sharpener) with a handle and a two sided blade (coarse and fine). Is this better worse or different than a "stone"
08-21-2008, 02:03 PM
Good afternoon gentlemen,
I am mentally preparing to lay my shower floor on the kerdi base and I have come up with a couple of questions:
Does one usually lay tile from front to back? out from the center drain?
If I am doing a frame tile around the outside of the shower floor should I lay the outside first then fill in the center?
When laying the floor should I be attempting to follow the slope of the base or do I level the floor and allow the kerdi to insure drainage under the tile?
08-21-2008, 05:11 PM
You can lay your tiles in any order you want, Mike. I would recommend you do your layout with the drain in mind, though. That's usually the focal point of the floor and what we all look at first if we're fixin' to make fun of one another's work. :D
Seriously, make sure your layout works correctly at the drain, and try not to have any skinnies at the walls. Then set them in any order that's comfortable for you.When laying the floor should I be attempting to follow the slope of the base or do I level the floor and allow the kerdi to insure drainage under the tile?The reason for the slope on the shower floor is to make the water run to and down the drain, Mike. Why would you not want that to happen? This a trick question? :scratch:
My opinion; worth price charged.
08-21-2008, 06:52 PM
I was kinda questioning myself in that I am worried that the tiles will bridge the intersections of the slope and that there will be lippage as a result. I guess maybe I am being a little timid about this and just need to get it done.
I am worried that the tiles will bridge the intersections of the slope and that there will be lippage as a result.'Fraid I don't unnerstan that at all, Mike. :scratch:
08-23-2008, 05:51 AM
Let me try to esplain better:
rather than one flat surface the kerdi tray is actually four triangular surfaces that meet at the drain. My worry is that my tile pattern is not going to coincide with those four planes. I worry that my 6x6 tile will not lay flat on the tray because in some spots it will be bridging two of these planes. Is this a geometry problem that does not rise to the level of a tiling problem?
My tile work is workable, even creative, but I am far from the craftsman level. I have also had way too much time to contemplate the laying of the floor tile while doing the walls, and may have come up with imaginary problems.
At any rate, even if it is just my neuroses that are in play here, I really appreciate all of the help that you guys provide and I am constantly amazed by the dedication of the moderators and contributing professional tilemen and women.
Brian in San Diego
08-23-2008, 06:31 AM
Well there's the problem! Using 6x6 tiles for a shower floor is risky business for two reasons...the one you are trying to figure out and the risk of slip/fall. I think most of the pros here will agree that the maximum tile size a DIYer would want to use for a shower floor is 4x4 and 3x3 would even be better.
I used 2x2 on my mudbed kerdi shower and didn't experience any problems like you are contemplating. If your heart is set on those 6x6s (which I would strongly advise against) you could cut them so that the four dissect lines would fall on a grout joint.
What Brian said. Six by six is gettin' a bit big for a shower floor to my thinking, but folks sometimes use bigger tiles than that.
Having never used a Kerdi Tray, I must admit I never even paid any attention to them being four planes. Never yet even heard anyone axe about the consideration you're addressing here, Mike, which leads me to believe it's not a serious problem. I expect bridging over those intersections is not much of a challenge or we'd be hearing about it regularly.
I suggest you just dry-lay your selected tiles on the floor and see if it's really gonna be of concern to you before we start lookin' for a fix. :)
My opinion; worth price charged.
08-26-2008, 03:34 AM
Good Morning Gentlemen;
I am contemplating turning my 6x6 tile into 4x4 or 3x6 by cutting it. Is this going to be problematical? My plan was to ease the edge on a bench sander, and the tile is not particularly rounded on the edge at the factory.
08-26-2008, 11:17 AM
You'll just hafta try a couple and see what they look like, Mike. Can't see'em from over here, eh? :)
My opinion; worth price charged.
08-26-2008, 11:31 AM
You can also use a wet stone.
I cut 300 some pieces of 4x4 from 13x13 through body porcelain for this shower. It was a new stone when I started.
08-26-2008, 02:16 PM
Thanks CX and Chuck;
That is beautiful shower Chuck, did you "cut the crust off" each 13x13 tile or did you use the factory edge on some?
08-26-2008, 05:01 PM
The actual size was 3-15/16" (100mm) to match the Kerdi drain. I set the fence at 6-7/16" and double cut the tiles leaving two raw edges on the four resulting pieces. I then set the saw at 3-15/16" and had at it with the rub stone. The carborundum stones are usually found at hardware stores, lumberyards or lodepot in the tool sections, typically near chisels, planes etc.
In answer to your question, all of the edges were cut. No factory edges.
Not sure I can have no respect for a tradesman who'll abuse a tool like that showed there in Post 59. (http://www.johnbridge.com/vbulletin/showthread.php?t=65134&page=4&pp=15) :shake:
Nope, that just ain't right. :twitch:
08-26-2008, 05:48 PM
You should see Davy's!
08-29-2008, 05:22 PM
You guys answered all my other questions, so why not go a little off topic.
Can anyone tell me why my two lab puppies are eating my concrete driveway? They are 10 (Bear, Black Lab) and 12 (Satchel, Yellow Lab) weeks old. :scratch: :scratch: :scratch:
Also, Can I use a scratch and snap tile cutter to turn 6 by 6 porcelain into 4x4?
Brian in San Diego
08-31-2008, 07:40 AM
Don't know why dogs would eat concrete.
I think you will be disappointed trying to cut porcelain with a snap type cutter unless it's one of the expensive professional types and even then your results may vary depending on porcelain type and sharpness of the cutter. I think you would be much better off with a wet saw. I cut untold amounts of 2x2s from 12x12 porcelain with a wet saw. It worked fine.
08-31-2008, 07:23 PM
Thanks Brian. I will have to look into getting a porcelain blade for my POS wet saw.
09-06-2008, 08:06 PM
I installed the field tile on my shower floor today and I am wondering if the kerdi drain will remain adjustable for height after the thinset sets up? I preset the drain height bu the tile sits a smidge higher than I thought it would and the drain may be a little below the plain of the surrounding tile.
09-06-2008, 08:18 PM
beside the drain being able to move horizontally,
it also can be adjusted up with the (1) lateral adjustment collar that
slides up and down on the (2) height adjustment collar.
I never lock in the drain with thinset until I set the tile around it.
you might want to free up the drain and collars now while its still fresh.
Tool Guy - Kg
09-06-2008, 08:22 PM
...and I am wondering if the kerdi drain will remain adjustable for height after the thinset sets up? Nope. Adjust it before she sets up or forever hold your peace. :)
09-10-2008, 12:47 PM
Holding my peace forever.
09-10-2008, 02:58 PM
Did someone spill some bacon grease on your concrete slab? :lol1:
Lab puppies will chew anything, I had one that pulled some of my window screens out and chewed up the aluminium frames.
09-10-2008, 07:33 PM
No bacon grease that I know of, but they are still eating the concrete. I just installed an invisible fence and the broken up part of the driveway is in the correction zone, so they are now limited in the selection of concrete chunks available. They are also eating trim moldings and installed sheetrock. Aaaaah, the joys of lab ownership. :neesie: :neesie:
09-10-2008, 07:58 PM
A neighbor has a chocolate lab that ate another neighbor's rhubarb plant. The whole thing and a big one too. Right down to the roots.
We call the dog, Hoover. :D
Dog had the runs for three days. :lol1:
09-11-2008, 06:08 AM
Ok, Back to work.
I have "made my own bullnose" with 45* cuts and a stationary belt sander. Thank god the ceramic wall tile is pretty soft.
Do I need to seal the edge where there is no glazing? If so, with what?
09-11-2008, 09:09 AM
Yes, I'd eventually seal the tile's edge along with the grout.
Depending upon what color grout you are using, might even want to pre-seal it. I'd test for that, looking to see if your grout stains it. Mixing up a small batch of grout in a dixie cup works for that.
09-14-2008, 11:15 AM
I just caulked my shower floor and walls. Used Polyblend colored and sanded caulk. THe tube does not say how long before use or before grouting.
Does anyone know how long I have to wait before I can grout?
DId I screw up by caulking first?
09-14-2008, 11:39 AM
try this mike:
look under "drying time"
09-14-2008, 01:37 PM
DId I screw up by caulking first?Well, yes, I think you did, actually. :)
My opinion; worth price charged.
09-14-2008, 02:49 PM
Is this one of those Walls before Floors issues? Or am I going to find that the Grout will run in terror from the caulk and end up in a big quivering puddle around my 1/16 inch too low kerdi drain. :lol1:
09-24-2008, 09:10 AM
I am wondering if sealing my grout is necessary. I used megabond with water under the tile and custom polyblend grout. I was kinda thinking that the kerdi right below the tile would prevent the need for grout sealer since there is so little mass to hold water compared to a mud floor.
09-24-2008, 09:19 AM
Hi Mike - I'm no expert, but from what I understand, the sealer is not there to keep water out. It's main function is to keep the grout from staying saturated with water, soap, bacteria which causes unsightly mold.
09-24-2008, 10:43 AM
Thanks Vince (BTW I love your shower (and your dog), when is the glass going in?),
I knew that the sealer did not "seal" but I thought that what kept down the mold and swamp like growths was the fact that so little water was held by the tile structure that it easily evaporated during the non-use time. I installed a couple of High CFM fans on a timer in my m-bath and was wondering if the use of the grout sealer might actually be contra-indicated as it could slow down the evaporation.
Vince is correct about the intent of grout sealers, Mike. In addition, some folks think the shower floor shouldn't be sealed in any event just to allow it to breathe a bit better since that's the part that requires the most drying. That's especially true in a traditional mud/liner/mud pan, but even in a Kerdi shower the floor gonna be the wettest part, eh?
Of course, others will argue that the floor is also the part needing the most cleaning and therefor should be well sealed.
Still others will argue that if you use a pre-made shower receptor you won't have any tile there at all and.............
Bottom line: Do what you wanna do with it. You'll never have a side-by-side test, so you'll still be axin' the same questions twenty years from now and your Kerdi shower will still be workin' just as well as it will next week. May or may not look dirtier. :)
My opinion; worth price charged.
10-02-2008, 08:59 PM
I was thinking of tiling my front stoop (25 feet by 4 feet) and I thought that pavers might be a good choice (belgard has some cool new stone patterns) for traction. Can pavers be installed over a concrete base? If so, do you use thinset? DItra?
Could one use tile or pavers to cover an ugly driveway?
10-09-2008, 09:23 AM
Mike, I think you need to tell the folks what you mean by "pavers" to get much response here.
In the tile industry, pavers are just any of a very wide variety of dust-pressed tiles with a facial area of six square inches or more.
I doubt that's what you're axin' about, eh? :)
My opinion; worth price charged.
11-15-2008, 10:22 AM
Hi everyone, I just got a TM-75 on eBAY. It came with a new QEP 7 inch blade and a beat felker 8 inch on the saw. Can I use the 7 inch blade on the tm-75? If yes, how do I adjust the saw for the smaller diameter blade? If no, what is the best bang for buck available at LowDepot.
11-15-2008, 01:16 PM
Hi Mike, :)
There is no height adjustment on the TM-76. I suppose you could build the cart surface up with something, but I think that's a pain. I would buy a new 8-inch blade. :)
11-15-2008, 05:16 PM
Thanks John, (Kinda humbling to get a response from the big guy)
I took a good look at the manual and the TM-75 and reached the conclusion that the 7 inch blade was innappropriate (Doesn't keep amazon from suggesting the purchase of a 7 inch blade with a TM-75 though) so I went to the Depot and looked for an 8 inch. They did not have any. Now I am looking at buying on line.
Does anyone have an opinion on the Bosch DB866 described as follows "Bosch DB866 Premium Plus 8-Inch Wet Cutting Continuous Rim Diamond Saw Blade with 5/8-Inch Arbor for Tile"
01-01-2009, 06:00 AM
To All of the Contributors of this forum,
I am 95% done with my shower and much of the progress is because this forum exists. The dedication and helpfulness of the pros and semi-pros on this forum is amazing and it reassures me of the charity of the human spirit. I hope that everyone has a wonderful new year and is enjoying football and and a well-deserved rest from DIY today.
Tool Guy - Kg
01-01-2009, 11:59 AM
Happy New Year to you as well, Mike! :aparty: :wave: :aparty:
vBulletin® v3.7.4, Copyright ©2000-2015, Jelsoft Enterprises Ltd.