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rfrost
06-22-2008, 09:03 PM
Just bought my 1st kerdi system and I have a couple of questions. The system looks easy to use. I have tiled several bathroom floors but never a shower.

Do I kerdi the walls before putting down the pan? The pan seems to light to be constantly standing on while doing the walls, so I thought about doing the walls 1st then put the pan down and then kerdi the pan.

If so I assume I put the kerdi band between the pan and the wall?

Also I put down hardi-backer board on the walls before I found this kerdi system. I assume it is okay to kerdi over the backer-board?

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rfrost
06-22-2008, 09:08 PM
One other question, since I decided on the kerdi system to late I also put down backer-board on the floor. Is it okay to mortar the pan to backer-board our is better to do it on the subfloor?

Lazarus
06-22-2008, 09:10 PM
Do I kerdi the walls before putting down the pan? The pan seems to light to be constantly standing on while doing the walls, so I thought about doing the walls 1st then put the pan down and then kerdi the pan.

You can if you like. Kerdi the wall to the old floor

If so I assume I put the kerdi band between the pan and the wall?

Yes.


Also I put down hardi-backer board on the walls before I found this kerdi system. I assume it is okay to kerdi over the backer-board?

You can use the Hardi. I would lightly sponge the walls as you go so the unmodified thinset doesn't dry too quickly. The Hardi tends to suck up the moisture pretty quickly. Mix the thinset on the loose side....just barely able to hold a ridge....

sandbagger
06-22-2008, 11:51 PM
what Laz said. You are correct to be concerned about the tray. It's quite sturdy once installed and tiled, but easily dented when exposed. lay some scrap drywall or heavy cardboard over it while working if you must stand on it, and ditch the spiked heals. :yeah:

if the Hardi is properly attached and supported on the floor you can set the tray on top.

rfrost
06-23-2008, 08:21 AM
Thanks for the quick info. I am sure I will have more questions as I start this endeavor.

rfrost
06-23-2008, 08:28 AM
Another question. When using mortar for the kerdi against the hardi backer board can I use versabond mortar? Or what would you recommend to make sure I get a good bond.

Lazarus
06-23-2008, 08:37 AM
Yes, Versabond can be used. JB Hissownself uses it, but it does void the Schluter warrenty. Most of us trust it enough not to be concerned.....but if you can find it, Ditra-Set is the best way to go. A Laticrete/Bostic Dealer should be able to get it for you. It's unmodified, but great stuff.

sandbagger
06-23-2008, 02:37 PM
yepper - just make sure if you use the unmodified that you got the good stuff. forget anything less than 10 bucks a bag. Kerabond is also very good.

rfrost
06-30-2008, 08:35 AM
Okay I have started the kerdi and realized I may not have enough kerdi to do all the walls to the top.

So question is do I go buy another roll of kerdi? How much would I expect to pay? Or do I just got up 6-7 feet on some of the walls?

Also I noticed in the Kerdi e-book that they nailed in a board to use a starter edge, doesn't that damage the kerdi?

Lazarus
06-30-2008, 08:40 AM
You could go up the walls 6 or so feet...and then use Hydro-Ban or Redgard to seal up to the top, or just buy some more Kerdi. Your choice.

Yep, nailing up a "ledger board" will cause some small holes....which can later be sealed with Kerdi-Fix or even a good quality silicone caulk/sealer.

sandbagger
06-30-2008, 01:38 PM
If you can go 7 feet up the wall you should be fine. If necessary you can "ration" the Kerdi to put more on the "wet" walls. The wall farthest from the shower head can usually be the lowest. A little splashing is not going to hurt anything. If you do decide to Kerdi all the way up you can buy what you need from Tile-experts at a very good price.

rfrost
07-14-2008, 08:24 AM
Thanks for all the responses. I finally have the kerdi attached. It went much better than I thought it would.

2 new questions.

I ended up using unmodified mortar to attach the kerdi to the backer board. Now what kind of mortart do I use to attach tile to kerdi??

Also I need to attach the shower door, can I drill through porcelain? If so what kind of bit is needed???

Thanks again everyone.

Lazarus
07-14-2008, 09:27 AM
Unmodified is fine, although lots of us use a lightly modified like "Versabond," availably thru HD.

You can (carefully) drill through porcelain tile with a diamond-grit tipped hole saw. I don't have a link handy, but I'm sure someone will pop in with one for you. They can range from less than $15 to well over a hundred. If you're only doing a few holes, the cheaper one is just fine.....

Lazarus
07-14-2008, 09:33 AM
OK...here you go. I picked up a set like these for some porcelain and they are adequate for the job. Cut the same size hole in a piece of plywood, clamp or secure it on your tile to keep the bit from "walking", use low speed and medium pressure on it and, with a continuous supply of water, keep the bit wet and you have your hole(s).

http://www.amazon.com/DIAMOND-DUST-GLASS-MARBLE-HOLESAW/dp/B000HE86L4

rfrost
07-22-2008, 06:03 PM
Next steps.

I am ready to tile. On the walls and the floor should I use a normal sanded grout or is there a special grout that will resist water.

Also on the wall what looks better 1/4 inch grout line or 1/8th.

Lazarus
07-22-2008, 06:09 PM
Epoxy grout or "Spectralock" grout will resist water....but it might be overkill for your purposes. 1/8" grout lines require unsanded grout....but you'll only use that for either very small wall tile or very large travertine tile. Most "standard" sized tile will require sanded grout. I like 3/16" joints, but some folks insist on 1'4" ones.