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TGK
10-10-2006, 12:22 PM
I am in the planning stages of a bathroom remodel and will be removing the bathtub which is in an alcove and all of the tile and whatver is behing the tile. I will be installing a new tub and will be tiling the walls on three side above the tub. Here are my questions thus far:

1. If I have the tub in and studs are exposed, what exactly (and in what order) do I put on the three walls to ready it for tile? Green board, drywall, concrete board, etc?

2. Is there any kind of tile that is preferrred on shower walls (ceramic, travertine, porcelein, etc) or can I choose whatever looks good and is rated for walls?

I'll have many other questions in the near future, thanks.

Tim

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JTG
10-10-2006, 12:27 PM
Tim
Welcome to the JB Forum.
After you have the walls down to the studs you will want to put in some insulation. 6mil poly vapor barrier and then the tile backer board. I wouldn't use drywall. So a search here for "tub surrounds" and look in the Liberry. Lot's of information there.
Keep all of your posts regarding this project here and everyone can follow along.
If I may let me suggest that you click on the TYW store link above and get a copy of John's book. Lots of information there to help you along.
We have all put all of the various products you can choise from on the walls of a shower surround. IMO look at a ceramic/porcelain tile. You can get tile that looks just like stone without the upkeep/maintenance issues involved with a natural stone installation.
Good Luck
JTG

TGK
02-02-2007, 02:26 PM
Hello, I have started my 5x8 foot bathroom remodel and have the room down to the subfloor and the tub removed. I have 1/2 inch sub and want to put another 1/2 inch ply on top to get me started on my way.

Here are my first question:

1. How do I orient the top layer of plywood
2. What ype of ply do I buy
3. Where shoudl the seam sit on the top leayer? Does it matter?
4. Do I screw and glue? What type of adhesive do I use between layers?

Thnaks. I will have may other questions once I get this layer down - then I will install a new tub on the strengthened floor.

Thnaks.

Tim

the tiling Machine
02-02-2007, 02:55 PM
Hi tim.
1. Transversal to the bottom one
2. I would use inch exterior grade.
3. I did not get this question.
4. Yes glue it with multipurpose liquid nail and then screw it.

:deal:
sandro.

MudMaker
02-02-2007, 03:14 PM
Howdy Tim,
Here's a thread that gives you a plethera of info on floors... :yeah:

http://johnbridge.com/vbulletin/showthread.php?t=8921

This is in our Liberry among many other pieces of invaluable stuff.. :cool:

TGK
02-02-2007, 03:32 PM
Sorry, I cant ype very well. I'll read the linked docs. Here is my third ?

3. If I put down 2-3 piece of ply, where should the seams sit on the top layer of plywood. Do the boards need to butt up over a floor joist?

Tim

MudMaker
02-02-2007, 03:52 PM
Tim,
The second layer of ply will not be screwed to the joists. Just to the first layer. Avoid screwing this second layer to the joists. When you go to the link, you'll see that the second ply is 90 deg to the joist, and that the end of the the second ply is at 1/4 mark of the joist spacing for maximum strength..
;)

cx
02-02-2007, 06:53 PM
I merged your initial thread on this project here, Tim. Please bookmark this thread and use it for all your questions. :)

1. All subflooring layers should be installed with the face grain perpendicular to the floor joists. That is contrary to what others are telling you here, I'm afraid, but it is correct.

2. Your plywood should be exterior glue-type with no face of lower grade than C. AC and BC are the most commonly available in the big-box stores and are acceptable. Do not buy CD grade sheathing material.

3. To the extent possible, install your second layer following these guidelines (http://www.tile-assn.com/tileletter/pdfs/Underlayment-Nielsen-Woeste-0604.pdf). I think that's actually one of the articles in the link MudMaker provided.

4. Gluing the subflooring layers together is not as straight-forward as it might seem, but when starting with a half-inch subfloor (the builder should be shot!) it can make a lot of difference. Your subfloor must be clean and in good condition to even bother with. The second layer (which I would like to see be thicker than half-inch) needs to be pre-drilled to prevent "screw jacking" and to allow the bottom layer to be pulled tight against the new layer without stripping out the screw in the bottom layer. The glue should be a wood glue (Titebond II or similar) and must be applied in a full spread. Second layer must be installed without delay on the fresh glue. Do not use anything from a glue gun in nice ribbons between the sheets, you can do yourself more harm than good.

My opinion; worth price charged.

MudMaker
02-02-2007, 07:39 PM
Tim,
See correction I made to thread #7.. The rest of the suggestion makes a lot more sense as changed... Thx cx... :tup1:

TGK
02-05-2007, 08:11 AM
THanks for your help, I'm just curious as to why the full spread of wood glue is preferred over a tube in a caulk gun spreading ribbons between the sheets as mentioned below??

[The glue should be a wood glue (Titebond II or similar) and must be applied in a full spread. Second layer must be installed without delay on the fresh glue. Do not use anything from a glue gun in nice ribbons between the sheets, you can do yourself more harm than good.]

Thnaks.

Tim

TGK
02-12-2007, 12:43 PM
I'm ready to install the plywood this week. I was told in an earleir message that the plywood that I will put on top of my subfloor:

"should be an exterior glue type with no face of lower grade than C. AC and BC are the most commonly available in the big-box stores and are acceptable. Do not buy CD grade sheathing material."

I went to the big box store and didn't see any labeling that would tell me what type of ply I was looking at. The worker seemed more clueless than me. What does exterior glue-type mean? Where woudl I see the grade of ply noted?

The room is 5-8 and I know I should install the wood perpindicular to the joists. The 8 foot span is perpindicular to the joists, so should I run a full 4x8 foot sheet of ply and a second 1x8 foot sheet next to it?

Thanks much!!

TGK
02-13-2007, 09:10 AM
I've got all of the stuff ready to go down, help!!

TGK
02-14-2007, 10:29 AM
Can anyone assist me with the question above?? I'll go with my intuitioin otherwise which is scary! Thanks.

cx
02-14-2007, 12:29 PM
THanks for your help, I'm just curious as to why the full spread of wood glue is preferred over a tube in a caulk gun spreading ribbons between the sheets as mentioned below??For the same reason you want to put a full spread of thinset under CBU installations, Tim, to provide a 100 percent footprint for the top layer. If you use construction adhesive from a gun, especially those specifically indicated for "subfloor," you have a very great possibility of building in voids because the glue is only under parts of the top layer.

The plywood in the big-box will all be marked on its face. The grade will say A-B or A-C, etc, and somewhere it will say "Exposure 1," or "EXT." For subflooring, you can buy the least expensive board they have so long as it is of a grade "CC-Plugged," or higher and indicates exterior glue. It's unlikely you can find anything AC or AB in your local Homer's that does not meet that requirement.

Yes, that's how you would orient your boards. Put the seam in the area of least traffic if possible, so long as it's not near other seams. Might read that article I linked earlier, even though you won't have end joints.

My opinion; worth price charged.

TGK
02-20-2007, 10:45 AM
Thanks for you guidance! My second layer of ply is screwed and glued. Next come the bathtub install and then the concrete boards and tile.

I appreciate the guidance that is provided by this site and its posters!

TGK
03-07-2007, 01:58 PM
Hello all. I installed my Kohler tub in the alcove today and it is flush with the studs at the drain end and on the long tub side but it is 1/2 inch away from the studs at the far end of the tub. I know that I am supposed to overlap the concrete board and will be able to do that on the two flush parts.

What do I do about the far end of the bathtub where it is 1/2 away from the studs? Can I run the concrete board down to the just behind the tub and overlap just the tiles? Any ideas would be appreciated greatly!

ddmoit
03-07-2007, 02:23 PM
Hey Tim,

Fur out those studs until they are flush. You need a 1/2"? Among other things, you can cut strips of 1/2" plywood to make up the difference.