Need lawn or landscape advice? I'll help

[Big AL]

I have taken away many good tidbits from you all, and I'd like to pay back something. :tup2:

I am a landscaper by trade, and now do marketing for a fortune 500 doing business in the Green Industry.

With that in mind, ask away! Need advice on how to handle that scabby crabapple tree? Wanna know what those brown patches in the lawn are? How 'bout fert rates for winterization? Planting something and need year-round color?
Lemme' help!


(my main source of knowledge and experience involves the midwest zones)

AL

[Sponsored Links]

[muskymike]

OK Al, my zucchini that we had this year had lots of blossom rot, what do I add to the soil so it won't happen next year?

[Davy]

Hi Al, welcome. :wave:

I have a Red Oak tree that has never done real good. I planted it about 10 years ago when it was about 8 ft tall. It has grown but not near what it should have. I have planted a couple others in my yard that has passed it up and they are only 3 years old.

Some of the leaves on this tree are partily brown and some branches don't have any leaves at all. The other Red Oaks are only 30-40 ft away. Got any ideas?

[Davestone]

How come if it won't grow no matter how much you care for it it's called an exotic plant...and if it thrives with no care at all it's called a weed? :yeah:

[Splinter]

Hey Al... what time of the year do you cut back the Hydrangea's? First I was told March, and I didnt get any blooms the next year, then someone else said November, and guess what? no blooms.. So finally, I left the ugly dead shoots all winter long, and the next spring I had ton's of blooms... I dont want to look at the ugly dead brown shoots all winter Al.... help? :o

[tilelayer]

al,

why is grass green and not yellow, shouldnt bluegrass be blue? :lol2:

[cx]

Thanks for the offer, Al. :)

Once alla bowdarkskulls get done with their frivolity, I'm sure you'll get some serious questions, too.

'Cept Davy, I think he's serious. He shouldn't be plantin' no steenkin' Red Oaks up there anyway, though. Just makin' more places for them Oak Wilt bugs to be nestin'. Bad, Davy. :gerg:

And while you're here, identify this plant if you're able. Been tryin' to find somebody who knew what is for couple years. Piggybacked its way home with me, likely from either the desert down near the Texas/New Mexico border in the vicinity of the Guadalupe Mountains National Park, or in the mountains around Cloudcroft, New Mexico, if that helps.

Or from somewheres else. :D

[Mike2]

MM, blossom rot on zucchini is a good thing. Only thing better for it is to take away alla dirt. Al will tell you that.

Kelly, lookin to me like you got one of them exotic plants Stoner talks about.

Bluegrass is green. Gets it name from blue bugs that lives init.

Davy, if your oak tree lives within 1000 yards of a zucchini plant, that's your problem.

Next..... :D

[Tool Guy - Kg]

Mike....:D

Hi Al, thanks for the offer.

I have a lawn that is somewhat thin in most of the areas that receive full sun. I wanna thicken it up and choke out some of the weeds. So I raked the lawn with a metal rake, spread seeds, raked some more, and the soil was naturally kept damp by the fall weather. But the seeds didn't take. :(

What can I do to make seeding as easy as possible (least amount of work)? I live in the Midwest (Milwaukee area) and am thinking that power thatching inna spring might be a good idea as it would scratch up the soil a bit. The seeds might have a better chance at taking root if I do this (me thinks so, anyways). And what kinda seed should I be looking for? :)

[Dave Taylor]

CX.... Whatever that plant is.... it looks like you jest-about kilt' it.

Al... I gots' moles.... big time.

What's a girl todo? ... .. . :sheep:

EDIT: Tonto...... If you quit taken' short cuts to the outhouse mebee yer lawn would thicken up a bit.... either that or change brands-o-beer :---)

[opiethetileman]

cx that looks like a pot plant you shouldnt be askin people to ID that

[tileguytodd]

My landscaping/gardening knowledge in a Nutshell.........

#1 -SCOTTS...........Buy Scotts anything...its expensive and worth every penny!!! :)

#2 - Zone 3..........build a greenhouse, you'll need it :D

#3 - aeration aeration aeration.............the key to a good lawn

#4 - Red Oaks make great shade trees for your great grandchildren..........Silver maples make great shade trees for you!!

#5 - If your going to grow an apple tree, might as well grow one where you can eat the apples..........or at the very least make Jelly!!!
When pruning apple tree's the more ruthless you are the more apples you will see.Fruit Tree Fertilizer Spikes are a must
#6 - Plant Asparagus NOW........Plant Current tree's NOW..........Plant Zucchini's to feed DEER because no HUMAN in thier right mind actually eats it ;)
#7 - SQUASH - Hubbards keep the longest.............Buttercups taste the best.........Acorns are the right size for 2. If you must grow summer squash, grow PATTY PANS...........Buy a pumpkin dont waste your garden space growing 1..........Carrots LOVE Tomatoes...........plant tomatoes between carrot rows...Both will do very well.
Compost on the corner of the garden...............Move the compost to another corner each year........Plant cucumbers where your compost was on a trellis......2 plants is all you will need grown there...........3 plants if you want to feed the neighbors!!
#8 - Grape tomatoes do not crack after rain nearly as bad as cherry tomatoes........Salsa without Cilantro isnt salsa...............Dill will reseed itself.....French Breakfast radishes are the mildest.......Parks Whopper are the biggest tastiest Slicers..............Heirloom tomato's generally SUCK!!! :rofl:

#9 - WILD RICE is the stuff of life.............any other Rice is just STARCH!!
Somewhere in here is a recipe for Wild Rice Soup..........try it........you'll never go back to Campbells chicken and rice!! :D :D :D

[Big AL]

Let me sort through these here and see what I can help with.

1) Blue Grass will turn a nice dark blue if you put iron on it in the late spring. I recommend a product called "NutriLean" or "Ironite" works well also (gotta get these at the garden center...not sold at HD). Just be sure not to put it down too heavily or you will actually turn the lawn grey. Secondly, DO NOT get any on your driveway or you will get brown stains when the stuff gets wet and dissolves. Finally, use a brodcast spreader to put it down and overlap your passes a minimum of 12 inches or you will stripe it badly.
2) Red Oaks. It's hard to tell what could be the problem. Did you use the "What the heck is wrong with my red oak" calculator above? :)
...most oaks have iron chlorosis if planted in a high PH soil (did you ammend the soil with anything before planting? Are you in clay soil? Did you remove the burlap from the root ball b4 planting? Was the root ball set a couple inches above the existing grade? ...what size joists are under your lawn? Does it stand up to the jump up and down test? :stupid2: ).
The best way to get iron in the tree is through a trunk injection. Not usually recommended for the DIY. However, on smaller trees, you can get sprays and also root feeders that will help. As far as the bare branches...cut one off near the tip...if the inside is green and flexible, it ain't dead. If it is brown and brittle, cut it off lower until you hit a green area...then prune it to a point where it looks good.
3) Seeding lawn help: Raking is nice, aeration is good, slit seeding is best....and damp Fall conditions are not quite enough (new seed needs watering 3X per day for 2 weeks). Also, different grass types have different germination rates (Rye comes up in 6 or 7 days, KY blue comes up in 14-18 days). For seeding in Milwaukee, I recommend a nice mix of Perennial Ryegrass and KY Blue for full sun. The more expensive seed is better because it is filtered and doesn't have weed seed included. Scott's seed is very good quality. Avoid the big bags that read "Landscapers Mix." They are full of crap. Look at the lable on the bag and see what the % of noxious weed seed is. Also, you don't want a lot of "inert matter." Inert matter is another phrase for, "This bag contains some crap." :lol2:
Finally, the best way to seed an existing lawn is to rent a slit seeder. It's about twice as big as a lawn mower. It actually makes small trenches or slits in the lawn and drops seed in them, then covers them. You should have enough seed to put down about 40lbs per 1,000 sq ft. (my opinion here).
Slit seed the lawn in a checkerboard pattern to avoid the appearance of lines. IOW, run the machine North and South, then again, East and West. You can do this NOW and the seed will germinate in Spring. This is called "dormant seeding"
Last thing: Spread a good starter fertilizer over the lawn. 20-10-10 or 20-20-10 are good rates.
Also, if you decide to wait until Spring to seed, be aware that you must get your seed down and germinated prior to May 1 so you can still get your crabgrass preemergent down in time.
Remember: The keys to seed success are: 1) constant moisture, and 2) seed-to-soil contact
4) Don't know about the zuchini much...I'm more of an ornamental specialist. I like it on the grill with some butter slathered on it though. :tup2:
5) moles are in your lawn because there is food for em' there. Usually grub worms. Kill the grubs, lose (some) of the moles. I've also had luck with a pellet gun. ---ole wives tale: Drop slightly chewed juicy fruit gum in the burrows...mole smells, mole eats, mole has major bowel issues, bam...dead mole. :stupid2:
6) Here's the hydrangea help. http://www.hydrangeashydrangeas.com/pruning.html
It all depends on what kind you have. I, personally, do not prune mine back.

Hope this helps.
I'll be down in Atlanta golfing over the next 4 days, (envy me, all) so when I get back, I'll jump back on this thread.

Thanks for allowing me to be a part of this forum.


BTW--I have a book coming out soon. It's titled:
Big AL's booK on: Grass Over Your World.
I may even start an entire forum for Green Industry Pros and DIY's alike. I was thinking we could give free advice and stuff.
Pretty original idea eh? :loaded:

sorry, CX, no clue on the potted beggar weed you have there. Try it on a salad with ranch or blue cheese and tell me what happens, ok? :suspect:

[Steven Hauser]

Will I ever get rid of the cabgrass? I been paying those companies All Green True Green whatever to do the chemicals and I can't tell a difference.

Seems to me the lawn grass is changing had fescue and now it is changing to soemthing else. Thicker and denser in a 4x4 area.

Greenville SC don't no nuthin' about grass 'cept I like rocks better.

:)

[Scooter]

My pot plants are not doing very well. Whats a good fertilizer? Something that won't be too toxic when I smoke it.

[Davy]

Lets all go to Scooters place. :D

Actually, Red oaks do fairly well in this area, all except this one. :) I'm about ready to give it more iron, the axe. :)

Todd, I have several Silver Maples too, they have done real good. :)

[Big AL]

Steven,
chances are that it is NOT crabgrass at all.
Grab grass is annual: meaning it germinates in the spring (you can't usually notice it until early summer), and dies at the first frost.
So, if you see that "crabgrass" in late April, then it is something else like Barnyardgrass, goosegrass, or clumping tall fescue. (don't confuse this one with Turf-type tall fescue which is good)

If you have the big boy companies out there putting down their treatments, and you still have that "crabgrass," chances are you have another problem.
The only way to get rid of barn and goose grasses are to dig- em' up. :bang:

Also, you need to realize that these grasses are only able to invade weaker turf areas. Strong thick turf will choke out non-desirables.


As far as some areas of the lawn getting thicker, and others not, you very well may have some new species of turf grass beginning to take over.
have you introduced new seed anytime in the last 5 years?


My advice short of scraping up the lawn and starting over: (cost assuming you are sitting on about a 5,000 sq ft lawn)
1) put down a nice winterizing fert now. 20-20-10 will do nicely. ($15)
2) put same stuff down again in mid-march. ($15)
3) slit seed entire lawn with nice blend of KY blue and Perenial Rye..also mid-march (seed $100, machine rental $50)
4) put down crabgrass pre-emergent in later april. you can buy a blend with weed control and fert in it too. ($20)
5) continue putting down weed-n-feed every 4 weeks through summer. ($45)
6) aerate and overseed lawn in september. (seed $100, machine rental $50)
7) finish year with 20-20-10 in late fall. ($15)

total cost: $310.
approx cost to scrape and start over with new sod: $3,500

also: cut grass at 2.75" and NO shorter (free)
water lawn 2x per week even if it rains. When you water, leave sprinkler in each area for 1 hour. (water is cheap)


If you do this, your lawn will show a marked improvement. It sounds like a lot of work, but really isn't.
Perform the above work for a couple years, and most of the crappy grass will be choked out.


hope this helps :shades:

AL

[muskymike]

Scooter! :lol1: http://www.freewebby.com/adult-smilies/pimp.gif

[tileguytodd]

My pot plants are not doing very well. Whats a good fertilizer? Something that won't be too toxic when I smoke it.

"Bat Guano".................Hightimes 1977 issue 37 :D :D :D

[Eugenius]

Big Al, you're comments are primo, Neal Sperry quality and beyond. We have a 15' crepe myrtle in in the back yard here in northeast Texas. In the 4 years we've been in this house, it hasn't produced a single bloom. Is there such a thing as a sterile or non-blooming crepe myrtle?

Scooter, finely ground Dorito's make a munchy meal for said young plants.

[Steven Hauser]

Thanks Al, :bow:

Uhh.

But what if I want the purty fescue and not them other types of grasses?

Is it a case of go with your grasses or kiss your assess? No not assess but :moon:

:D

[Big AL]

Eugenius...thanks for the Sperry comparison...my ego isn't big enough already! :tup2:

Anyway, the grand old "Lilac of the South" is a wonderful ornamental.

Here's what I think about the lack of flowers based on not seeing it.

1) Have you fertilized it recently? If you have, you may have given it too much nitrogen. If you have not, then I recommend some of those Jobe Spikes.
2) If it is one of the older varieties, then chances are it has been racked with Powedery Mildew fungus which will eventually stop it from flowering. You can get fungicides to spray it with in the Spring, but if it is too tall, you may have to hire a company to spray it for you. Cost will be around $40 per spray and you'd need 2 or 3.

Some final advice: pruning!

(assuming it's in full sun)
Thin that puppy out. Air flow through the tree is your friend. Get rid of 90% of the internal cross-branching. NOW is the time to do it since it will be slipping into winter dormancy.
Also, some major rejuvination-type pruning may be in order if you can manage it. This involves reducing the canopy by 40% overall.

Hope that helps!


PS--if it is an older variety, pruning and spraying will help it for a year or 2 and the problem will come back.
You may consider starting over with a new cultivar with more natural disease resistance. They have Crape's these days on good root stock that get almost no disease problems. :cry:

[Big AL]

Steven,
I really like the Turf Type Tall Fescues they have out now.
my entire lawn is a mixture of TTTF and Perennial Rye.
TTTF must be mowed higher though, but it is good for summer drought situations. (also, TTTF has more of an emerald color, and not a dark blue color)

Here's the kind I used in my lawn:
http://www.lesco.com/?PageID=27&ItemNumber=059090


The key is a mix because all of one type of grass means if you get a fungus in there, the whole thing will look bad. if you have a couple of types, then you can allow the lawn to "grow through" the problems.
:yipee:

[Alto]

Hey Big Al, thanks for being here for some off-topic advice. This could catch on and we'd all get real real s-m-r-t. :yeah:

Do you know if nimblewill is an annual? My lawn is being invaded by it. I killed off sections with Round-up last year but now the patches are getting too big. I'm pursueing an aggresive fert program, letting the fescue shade it out, then mowing low in two cuts to remove the nimblewill "heads". It's controlling it but just barely. See if it's an annual, maybe I can put down pre-emergent early in the spring?

[Big AL]

Hi Rick,
Sorry to say that Nimblwill is perennial.
Your idea of roundup is the best course, but nimblwill is a lot like bentgrass in that it "creeps" quickly.

Right now, you should really be able to distinguish the nimblwill because it should be mostly brown.

I'd mark off these areas with spray paint or something, leaving about 6" of extra space around the envaded areas. Then, I'd start the roundup applications early in the spring. (roundup ain't cheap, I know :bang: )

Another idea would be to rent a sod cutter and scrape it out of there, turn the soil over, and put sod over top. This would help keep it choked out for a while.

Problem is: if it is coming from your neighbor's yard, it will always be a problem.

[Steven Hauser]

Thanks Al.

So I haf ta git started soon? Or since I'll be gone a lot over the next few weeks, it'd be 1st of December before I could do the yard.

Is your plan still viable then?

:D :bow:

[Big AL]

Steve,
December is just fine for the 20-20-10.Good luck!

[Steven Hauser]

Thanks Al.

:)

[Scooter]

This plant is not doing well. What kind of fertilizer do you suggest?

[cx]

Damn old hippies'll smoke anything. :rolleyes:

[Big AL]

Scooter,
It looks fine to me, but judgin by where you live, you should rinse it real good before you do anything else....don't wanna get nun' of that e-coli stuff trapped inside your bong!
:crazy:

[Alto]

Big Al -gotcha- no magic bullet. Must be coming in from the woods. Hey, can I use green spray paint? :D

Thanks for your time. :)

[Tool Guy - Kg]

I hadda neighbor who used green spray paint on all the old (dead) christmas trees up on top of his garage. Musta had at least a dozen up there. :rolleyes:

[Big AL]

Bubba,
Am I reading that right?...you knew a guy who put dead Christmas trees on his roof?

Interestingly enough, there is a product designed for sports turf that is a water soluable "paint" of sorts that is used to make the turf green for big games. Ever wonder how football fields are still nice-n-green in the dead of winter? (not domed stadiums of course).
The stuff works great and only needs a couple hours to dry.

[Big AL]

Folks,
Being as there is a long weekend coming up, and you will prolly be outside putting up yer Christmas lights, don't forget the lawn and land.

Best tips now:
1) winterize the lawn. A little effort now will go a long way in the Spring. Put down some 20-10-10 or thereabouts. The first number is nitrogen and ain't all that important right now. You wanna avoid 33-3-3 or stuff like that. 10-10-10 is good. 20-20-10 is better. HD prolly has what ya need. Use a broadcast spreader ($20 Scotts el-cheapo works well) and don't be afraid to put it down on the heavy side! Twice the recommended rate is good if ya keep it evenly spread with no glopping. (that's why broadcast spreader is preferred)
2) rejuvenation pruning is now! have shrubs (non-evergreen) that have been looking a bit too woody? Cut em' almost to the ground, and "poof" next Spring, brand new bush! Just be careful of doing this on flowering trees and shrubs cuz you'll cut all the buds off! :sick:
3) soft-bodied perennials like hostas or daylillies should be cut all the way down ASAP. If you have ornamental grasses, leave them alone til Spring because they provide winter interest.
4) please don't use rock salt to melt the snow...it kills the grass. Use calcium chloride ice melt. Your driveway will thank you too! :uhh:

PS--if it is real cold, and there is frost on the grass, wait until high noon to walk on the turf. If it's frozen, you will crack the crowns of the grass and kill it...plus you'll leave footprints that will show up next year.
Good luck friends!
:) :)

[dgunnels]

Snow??? Ice??? Melting????? I have a new bloom coming out on miniature rose today.