Rehabbing Bathroom, Tile Help [Archive] - Ceramic Tile Advice Forums - John Bridge Ceramic Tile

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Chrisnj99
10-14-2006, 08:33 PM
Hello, thanks for reading and for any help. I am rehabbing our bathroom and I have tile experience, but my experience is limited. I am starting to remove the exsisting tile on the wall and underneth is mortar and then a steel mesh covering. We live in a condo building on the bottom floor with mostly concrete around it. The top half of the wall is dry-wall, but the tile was applied directly to the metal mesh.

I have a few questions 1) do i need to remove the exisiting mortar and re-apply mortar or use concrete board before the new tile? 2) How can I put up new dry-wall or concrete board with no studs, can I caulk it to the metal mesh? 3) If I do have to remove the exsisting mortar down to the mesh, what do I use to fill out the 1 1/2" gap left from the old mortar? I have posted a few pics so you can see. Thanks for any suggestions, Chris

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LEXX
10-14-2006, 08:57 PM
Well, I just take the wall part with the metal and mortar down to the studs or cinderblock.
I cut the top part of the wall where the tile and drywall meet with a grinder with a masonry blade. Then I rip it all out, then I put my board that I need in and tile or paint.


What are you saying, “How can I put up new dry-wall or concrete board with no studs” What is holding it up now?

lexx

Chrisnj99
10-14-2006, 08:59 PM
thanks for the advice, there is cinderblock back there no wood studs...any ideas

jadnashua
10-14-2006, 09:14 PM
You say you have 1.5"? You could glue or nail some 1" shims to the wall, and then put 1/2" cbu up, but since that isn't in a wet area, you could just use drywall. It is easier and cheaper with drywall, and it is a perfectly fine base for tile in a dry area. If the mortar bed is in good shape (stick well stuck to the wall and flat), you could just tile over it, too. If it is loose, pull it off. They may have nailed some tabs (don't remember what they call them) to the wall to help attach the lath and mortar to the wall. If so, then they may make it harder to remove, but still doable.

LEXX
10-15-2006, 06:54 AM
Try liq.nailing and then drill some holes as if you were nailing and put 2 nails in each hole. Hammer the 2 nails in will wedge them self in and help in adding support in keeping the board (DUROCK, HARDI, DRYWALL) in place.

Chrisnj99
10-15-2006, 09:42 AM
Thanks guys, I figured that I could tile over it, but the problem with the wall pictures is that it is not even, at the bottom half where the tile was sticks out about 1/4" it's not flush to put up drywall right over it. And in the spots where the mortar was loose and fallin out, what can I use to fill that void? New mortar? Thanks again, Chris

John Bridge
10-15-2006, 10:52 AM
Hi Chris, ;)

Looks like you're doing a pretty good job of getting the old tiles off. If you use a new tile that comes with a radius/mud bullnose you can go right back over the old mortar.

If that's not what you want I recommend you remove mortar and all and start over. :)

Chrisnj99
10-16-2006, 08:26 PM
Thank you, i will most likely jus tile over the old mortar, Chris

koboloi
10-16-2006, 08:41 PM
Hi, I am in the process of retiling my shower. I have removed the old cement board and plan to use that new Hardbackergripper (or whatever it is called) and I seem to have a good handle on it.

The problem is with the shower pan, installed apparently 1978. It is very strong, 1/4 inch, does not give and does not leak. Several questions:

Could I paint in with marine boat paint?

Could I lay mosaic tile (rought surface), 1inch squares, raise the drain appropriately. The slope is adequate as is, drains well no water poools. Do you think this would work or perhaps I should just chlorox the thing to whiten it up?

The problem is my wife doesnt like the speckled white existing surface, lol, go figure.

I appreciate whatever suggestions you may have other than having a professional come in and lay a concrete pan, etc.

Thanks Kob