SteveWI's Tile Project [Archive] - Ceramic Tile Advice Forums - John Bridge Ceramic Tile


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10-11-2006, 05:08 PM
Hi Everyone,
What a great website!
I plan on building this coming spring and have a timeline question. I've been a weekend warrior assisting just about everyone in the familiy, not to mention working construction (framing) in my younger days. However, I've not done much tiling except to assist someone. I would really like to contribute as much sweat equity as I can to the project. I've roughly calculated about 600 sqft of flooring/master bath area that needs tile. Do you think I would be over extending myself if I tried to do this? Any comments would be appreciated.

I have tons of vacation...and I think it's maybe time for a little payback.
Thanks in advance,

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10-11-2006, 06:20 PM
Welcome Steve
Ya you betcha you can do it. first thing you need to do as the days are getting long is click on the TYW link above and order yourself up a copy of John's new book. After you have read it you will have book learned everythig you will need to know.
In the Liberry here and saved on the server somewhere is all the information you can bring up to research your project. Then when you have questions there is the good folks who visit this forum and offer the DIY installer all of the advise and help they can lend. Make it sound easy don't I?
Good Luck

10-11-2006, 06:25 PM
"Ya you betcha you can do it"- lol
The book order in process as I write.

Thanks, I'll be back.

10-12-2006, 07:23 PM
I've read only one vapor barrier method is required when using CBU on the shower RedGard, poly or felt paper. All the walls of the shower will be on the interior of the home. It seems to me, felt or poly is cheap insurance to prevent moisture leaking throught the shower wall.
I am implying I would prefer Redgard.

Are there any special considerations for the cold WI climate?
I don't know if this is a given but building code here states the home will be lined with plastic vapor barrier.

10-12-2006, 10:35 PM
Hi Steve welcome! You can use either one it doesn't matter. If you opt to use Redgard don't use any poly or felt behind the cbu.

10-22-2006, 06:03 PM
Couple of questions on floor layout:
1- Can you clarify the proper place the tile and carpet floors should meet when between family room and foyer for a "professional" look? This would be a larger opening, no door. For doorways I understand the seam should be right under the door.
2- I would like different tiles in the kitchen versus the foyer/hallway, however, you do walk from one area into the other area. Do the professionals try and stay all one type of tile?

I'm building new, so could I lay the tile prior to installing the doors to avoid the hassle of cutting the jamb after the door is in?


10-22-2006, 08:00 PM
Hi Steve, I usually make the transition in the middle of the openning. Using two different tiles I would make the joining area a grout line. Yes, set the tile first then put the doors in. Much easier.

12-02-2006, 08:31 AM
In John's book it looks like he is setting the pre-slope with the entire drain in place, however the hair screen is screwed all the way down.
Utilizing the Oately drain; I believe that only the bottom flange, (part 1 of the 3 part system) is placed in the floor and mud leveled to the edges.
This leaves approxmately a 1/4 inch of deck mud at the drain; can anyone confirm this?

12-02-2006, 09:21 AM
Steve, dont believe just pictures, John may not have adjusted his drain yet for final slope.
As to Oatey looking tin doesnt belong in any homes I do....Look into a Nice Sioux Chief Drain with a nice Nickle finish in either round or square............Cost a little more and Look like a million bucks comparatively.

If you get in over your head, or timing appears it will be an issue, let me know, Ive a few friends not to far from you in the Tile Business.
I'm sure we could get you hooked up if need be. :tup2:

Are there any special considerations for the cold WI climate?Chances are if you are dealing with an Exterior wall you should already have your vapor barrier in place and it will be sealed to the bottom Plate of the wall. Carefully lift the bottom of this and tape it up out of the way. Once your liner is in you can drape it back down over the liner. Add Plastic to each end wall and seal to the back walls plastic using duct tape or a good sealent. Now you have a full vapor barrier and you are ready to add your CBU (durock) and then your Final Pan Deck Mud.

Now is a good time to consider shower design. If you have the room, put a turn or two in and eliminate the need for a curb and shower door. A simple Fish hook design is an excellent walk in plan for a curbless shower. Blend in some Glass Block to let the light in...........Mixed with a nice decorative tile you'll get a great looking shower and doing it yourself you'll save a ton of money!!!

12-02-2006, 10:38 AM
:bow: Todd, you are reading my mind on all accounts! How about I PM you and you can provide a contact/s when I get myself in trouble.

Is this the drain you are referring to?
Ok, I assume we fasten the first layer of the drain and set the pre-slope from that point to he walls.

Re: shower, no exterior walls. Here is what I have to work with. Click the link for the propopsed floor plan.
I would prefer to let a nice tile job speak for itself, (click example)
however, A 3 sided shower would allow the "view" however, the glass doors are sooo expensive. I don't want to cover the entire shower with walls :scratch:


12-06-2006, 08:12 PM
Is the layout for CBU underlayment the same as for plywood illustrated in
John B's reference doc?


12-11-2006, 09:03 PM
OK...dumb question; can someone tell me the difference between a Kerdi ABS vs PVC drain? Seems both are plastic, one black, one white??

01-13-2007, 08:35 PM
The GC said he would make an allowance when setting the drop-in tub for space to tile under the edge; this is all new construction. He wanted to know the space I would require.

He will be building the deck with plywood so depending on my choice of decoupling method would impact my allowance.
Can I use ditra or Kerdi on the deck for my decoupling layer or only cbu?

No splashers here, it's the master bath.

01-13-2007, 08:44 PM
Hi Steve, if you can get everything prepped before the tub goes in it's easier to do while it's out. Use Ditra on the ply and if he has to put the tub in before you tile have him leave it up an 1/4" higher than the thickness of the tile and Ditra.

Tool Guy - Kg
01-13-2007, 09:33 PM
I agree with Musky. Get that tile in before the plumber puts the tub in. Even if the plumber tries his hardest, he will have a heck of a time leaving a nice even gap around the entire perimeter.

And for the ABS/PVC question, they are both different materials that plumbing pipes are made from. Choose the same material as you have for drain & vent pipes. Are your's black or white? :)

04-02-2007, 02:30 PM
We have finally made our choice on make and style of drop-in-tub which now provides me with knowledge of where the pump will be in relation to the installation. (Pump is located on the tub end)
The tub will be installed basically in a large alcove that fits snuggly around it. It will sit lenthwise, left to right. Maybe 6-8" of space between tub and wall along the ends of the tub on the deck.

GC says we can cut the flooring and access the pump from the basement.

My question: what should the face (vertical area) of the deck be covered with, plywood or drywall and should I use Kerdi on the face or Ditra?
I think the GC would by default cover the whole thing with plywood which I'm thinking to just use Kerdi.

04-05-2007, 06:58 PM

04-05-2007, 07:11 PM
If you do use plywood then add a layer of wallboard first. Schluter advises against placing Kerdi directly upon plywood.

There are other ways to go as well. One example would be using cement board and a liquid waterproofing membrane like RedGard.


04-07-2007, 07:05 AM
Steve, For hot tubs where water is a Major concern (kids etc) we have had excellent success as follows:
3/4" B/C Plywood. On a Properly Built Framework with Tub set into Concrete Bed
1/2" Concrete Board imbedded in a Non Modified thinset (Mapei Kerabond)
Skim and set tile with Mapei PlanicreteW (not real fun to work with , but its a small area :)
Menards carries Mapei Products but will likely have to order the PlanicreteW

You can read more about PlanicreteW at Mapei's website.

09-25-2007, 09:28 PM
Well, my project has come to fruition and in several weeks I will begin tiling.

I couldn't find an answer so here goes my question:
Plan is to use Mannington PARMA tile in the shower and they sell a listello and quarter round for this tile. I would like to run the listello around the shower wall perimeter and in addition place a bead or in this case the quarter round on the top and bottom along the listello as an accent.
Using the qtr round just doesn't seem like it will work to me b/c how it will lay onto the wall and fit next to field tile.
Would I have to flatten or cut the back of each qtr round to lay flat?
Can I use the quarter round for this? Hope I made sense.


09-25-2007, 10:59 PM
Hi Steve, you should be able to fill the back of the quarter with thinset and stick it to the wall.

12-17-2007, 05:39 AM
Issue: I have a hallway laid with tiles at 12-1/8" which passes along the entry to the kitchen using a different tile at 11-3/4". The opening is aroud 8ft wide and during the layout, the grout lines will not meet up with each other. I was thinking of cutting small corners to create a listello effect between the two tiles, however if I use full tiles, the transistion (listello) is not centered on the doorway..??
I"m leaning towards cutting the hallway tiles so the transisiton will land in the center of the doorway and start out with full tiles in the kitchen..any ideas would be appreciated.

12-17-2007, 08:26 AM
Hi Steve, you can cut 2 to 3" strips to make a band to break up the two spots.

12-17-2007, 10:43 PM
Thought I would share a few pics of my tile work all with a lot of credit to this website...Felker TM75, John's book, Ditra, Nuheat floor and of course a kerdi shower.

Mike attached are pics of the transistion I referenced in the prior post. Your idea sounds much easier and quicker to do. I'm leaning toward cutting the hallway tiles which will be about half or slightly more so that the transisition splits the wall, then continue on with full tiles in the kitchen.

12-17-2007, 10:47 PM
Hi Steve, you could cut the strips the size of the wall in the second pic, where the chalk line is, which would prolly be 4 1/2" or so. The strips would go toward the kitchen side.

12-17-2007, 11:06 PM
"The strips would go toward the kitchen side."
Mike, not quite sure what you mean here, the cut side toward the kitchen tile?
I'm assuming the strip you refer to is 4-1/2" wide by 12" or so..

12-18-2007, 05:41 AM it; on the side of the "chalk line" towards the kitchen.

12-18-2007, 06:59 AM