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Ed-diy
10-05-2006, 05:41 PM
Hello again, :wave:

My next project is installing a new old fashioned hexagonal tile floor in a bathroom (approx 55 sq. ft.).

Iíve already demoed the previous tile floor. From what I read Iím going to need a very flat surface to lay these tiles and get a first class result.

Iím planning to use SLC to level the floor and raise it ľ″ to ⅜″. Iíve read, here on the JB Forum, quite a bit about SLC, and it appears to me that the pros get good results :bow: and us diyers frequently do not. :scratch:

:idea: Since Iím a lone wolf Iím thinking about using Custom Levelquick ES instead of the RS so that I have a bit more time to get it installed and spread before it sets up.

Any tips on working with the ES version?

How much time did you have to work it?

Any rules of thumb on estimating how much is required other than the guesstimate of ⅛″ for 50 sq. ft. per bag? :scratch:

Thanks!

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Scooter
10-05-2006, 06:16 PM
A couple of tips the old fashioned tiles come in two types--the Dal Tile Reproductions and other types which are more historically accurate.

The Dal Tile's version has beveled edges, which catches grout and is not historically correct.

Mission Tile out of Pasadena, California and some other suppliers make historcially correct flat hex tiles.

The setting bed has to be dead flat. SLC even under the best circumstances will not turn out dead flat. There may be some bumps and valleys. You will have to go over that with some thinset and a straight edge to make it flat.

If you have the room, I strongly suggest using a mud bed, which is dead flat and perfectly level. That would have also been the historically correct way of installation.

My experience with SLC is that you really do not want to "work" it. You pour it, you squeegie it around a bit to get into corners and the like and you let it seek its own level. Indeed the screw ups I have had occurred when I tried to "work" it too much.

Use two bags. Use a big Milwaukee Hole Shooter Drill. Add SLC to bucket of cold clean water. Mix only per package instructions, which I think is 2 minutes only. Then dump it in place. 55 sq feet is nothing. You should not have problems. Prime the substrate.

Me? I'd use a mud bed, if you have the room.

jdm
10-05-2006, 06:28 PM
You'll also notice that the Dal hexes have a textured finish while the historic tiles are perfectly smooth. As a kid I used to play on the floor of my Grandfather's NYC corner grocery store that had a hex tile floor.

Ed-diy
10-11-2006, 01:36 PM
Thanks for the replys.

Scooter, We donít need to be historically correct here. Spanish revival house Ė a hex tile floor will look good in the bathroom I am redoing.

Iím tentatively looking at American Universal 1 ĹĒ glazed porcelain tile with a matt finish.

I live in the LA area and have been to Mission Tile in Pasadena in the past probably a good idea to go out and see what they have in hex tile. Thanks for the tip.

I thought I was going to get a ďdead flatĒ surface with the SLC. Like you say Iíll go over it with some thinset and a straight edge to touch it up. How soft is SLC when set? Can any high spots be sanded down?

Iím going to use Custom LevelQuick ES Ė not a stock item anywhere it seems. Iíve got three bags of it on order at HD. Iíll mix, pour, and squeegee and try not to work it too much.

Unfortunately the mud floor wonít fit. It would have to be as thin as 1/8Ē in one place and up to about 3/8Ē max. I havenít done a mud floor but I think that would be much too thin.

Iím using Ditra over the slab for the rest of my tileing project but Schluter frowns on using it with less than 2x2 tiles so Iím thinking or using Nobleseal CIS under the hex tiles. Should I use the Noble 21 ( I think ) bonding stuff or put it down with thinset?
Either way seems to be OK with them.

Right now Iím trying to get the planning and materials for the bathroom under control. I hope to get started as soon as I finish tileing the back bedroom.

Thanks!

Scooter
10-11-2006, 03:13 PM
SLC will sand fairly easily, but with hex tiles, you really need to be flat within no more than a 16th over an inch. Bear in mind that the one inch hex tiles will sink into dips and will ride up skislopes, so unlike larger format tiles (which span those gaps), your hex tiles will show every slope and bird bath.

I will suggest that you take a good straight edge, like 3-4 feet, and go over the final SLC in every direction, and use some Custom Quick Fix to fill in the gaps. It is easier to fill in gaps than it is to sand down ski slopes. Use the straight edge like a screed to scrape away the excess Quick Fix to make as flat as a surface as you can. Let it cure, then tile. You may have to do this twice, depending on how good the final SLC pour is. I really have a hard time with SLC's and hex tiles, and it is rarely flat enough to be ready for tile.

Ditra has a waffle board surface, and as you might understand from reading the foregoing, the smaller hex tiles fall into the holes and won't span them, no the one inch hexs are a no go.

You will like Mission tile, and I know no one who hasn't preferred the historical correct tiles they offer over the street brands sold by Dal Tile and the like. Their only drawback is that most are special orders, and colors are limited, although white is pretty much standard, plus any border you chose to make. The price of their hexes are just about 50% more, but for the look that I am usually after, it is worth it.

If you are doing walls, they have some fine glazed subway tiles as well.

Any good sheet membrane, like Nobel or a flocked pvc will work out well over a slab. Mission Tile should have those, but I bet Dal Tile is cheaper if they let a DIY'er to purchase from them. Some do, some don't. The Dal Tile in Culver City is really lose on that score, as well as the one in Van Nuys.

Ed-diy
10-27-2006, 01:36 PM
Ok, I've got my three bags of Custom LevelQuick ES and I'm planning to pour it on Sunday morning.

I've got a couple of additional questions.

1. Primer - Package says - Undiluted over smooth concrete - or - cut 50/50 with water over porus concrete. The floor I'm covering is part smooth part rough because I chipped the old tile off of it. Are you usually using the LevelQuick Primer full strength or cut 50/50??

2. Mixing - The LevelQuick ES bag says mix for 2 minutes. It also says to pour the powder slowly into the water. Would you normally mix for 2 minutes after all of the powder has been added or 2 minutes total??

This stuff supposedly has a "Pot Life" of 45 minutes and a "Flow Time" of 30 minutes so I should have plenty of time. I don't expect to encounter one of these horror stories that some other DIY'ers have written about on this forum. I'll report back when it's done.

Meanwhile I would appreciate any answer or answers to the two questions above.

Thanks

John Bridge
10-27-2006, 03:35 PM
Hi Ed, :)

I'll ping our resident Noble Company techie, but he might be off fishing or otherwise wasting his time. His name is Eric and his username is E3. ;)

On second thought, you can ping him. Use this link:

http://johnbridge.com/vbulletin/private.php?do=newpm&u=1793

Scooter
10-27-2006, 06:40 PM
I mix the SLC for 2 minutes. With a high speed drill, you are going to pour the powder into the water in about 30 seconds. Then two minutes.

Don't screw around with that stuff. Try to get it onto the floor asap and all at once.

Most of my screwups have been mixing too long and fooling with the SLC on the floor for too long.

JTG
10-27-2006, 07:21 PM
Another tip. I find that it helps to hose out the bucket between mixes. :goodluck:
JTG

Ed-diy
10-28-2006, 12:20 AM
Thanks John,

I'll shoot a message over to Eric about the NobleSeal CIS. Hey how come you got 42,582 ++ posts and I only have 29 - well 30 now?

Scooter,

I'll do what you say. Two minutes and then get it on the floor move some to the corners and then let it do it's job.

Jerry,

Thanks for the tip; I was wondering about that. As for the "Good Luck" I'm going to pretend that its not Luck.

I"m going to mix the first two-bag batch right at the doorway to the bathroom where I am going to pour. The third bag is going to be mixed by my wife and my son (well how much help do you need with only three bags?) while I pour and spread the first batch. I figure I should be able to get it all 3 bags down in less than 10 minutes.

Thanks To All,

Shaughnn
10-28-2006, 03:12 AM
Hi Ed,
I'll revise JErry's advice and suggest that you have three buckets ready with pre-measured water, instead of using the same bucket for all three batches. Remember not to pour all three bags into the same spot, but distribute the SLC around the floor as you are pouring. This will aid the SLC greatly. And also remember that this stuff is incredibly viscous and will splash all over your walls if you even THINK about pouring it roughly. Mix it fast and pour it slowly.
For the primer, assume the worst case (rough concrete) and use it diluted. I also find that using a scarifier tool (pic below) to break the surface tension at the edges of your pour helps the SLC find it's "happy place" faster. Just swipe the edge a couple times if you see it developing a crest.
In about six hours time, you should be able to walk on it without worry, but it will still be fresh enough that you can clean up any high spots with a sharp-edged trowel by using it to "shave" the SLC. A belt sander will also work, though I honestly think that using the "ES" formula and mixing and pouring it all at once will leave you with few distortions.
Best of lfrtunes to you,
Shaughnn

Ed-diy
10-29-2006, 01:37 PM
Good Morning,

I poured my SLC as planned this morning and it went pretty well thanks to all the tips that you all provided.
I can't imagine what it would have been like if I had just used the instructions on the bag!

I can't get on it yet because I used Custom's ES - Extended Set - rather than the RS Rapid Set but it looks really good. I might have one very slight ridge from the last pour. I won't be able to tell until I can get on it and check it with a straight edge. But then again I am somewhat of a perfectionist.

More later.
Thanks again,

Ed-diy
10-30-2006, 05:24 PM
Hello again,

OK, I have checked out the SLC pour with a straight edge.
It's pretty good but I do have a low spot in the middle.
Thats where the thinset is the thinest. The SLC does not seem to flow well when it is less than say 3/16" or maybe 1/8" thick. No matter with a little versabond and a straight edge I should have a really flat floor. :tup2:

Scooter, You told me I would have to touch it up with thinset to get it "dead flat". No doubt about it. :nod:

Shaughnn, I compromised. I used two buckets and I had everything set up with the water pre-measured. :clap2:

Thanks again, :bow: now I better get back to work. I still need to improve the flatness, put down the NobleSeal CIS, and get some tile.

Scooter
10-30-2006, 06:13 PM
Actually I said Custom's QuickFix--I like that better than thinset. It is not as sticky nor gooey, and strikes off better. Cheaper, too.

Ed-diy
10-30-2006, 11:22 PM
Scooter,

I looked for Custom Quick Fix on their Web Site when you first mentioned it but I couldn't find it. Does it have another name?

Shaughnn
10-30-2006, 11:33 PM
Hey Ed,
Here's a link to several of their products.
http://www.custombuildingproducts.com/ProductCatalog/SurfacePrep/repair/?user=diy&lang=en
Shaughnn

Scooter
10-31-2006, 11:48 AM
Custom's Speed Finish

Ed-diy
10-31-2006, 11:51 AM
Shaughnn,

I've been there, but I've been unable to find the Custom Quick Fix that was referred to by Scooter in a previous posts. (Posts #5 & 15 in this thread.)

Most of the products in the link you provided say: "Mix amounts that can be applied in 10 minutes." I can't handle that - can't get it out of the bucket and screed it out in 10 minutes.

I'm waiting for Scooter to come back and further identify Quick Fix if possible.

Scooter
10-31-2006, 02:03 PM
Its called Custom Speed Finish.

The idea, at least for tile setters is that one wants to set down the patch and tile in the same day.

The stuff is super cheap, and mixes up in minutes, so make a couple batches over the afternoon if you have to.

Unless your floor is quite large and the dips quite numerous, I've straightened out large 100 square feet baths in about an hour.

Just use a 3-4 foot aluminum straight edge, identify the low spots, trowel it on a tad high, then use the straight edge as a screed to scrape off the high parts. That takes a few seconds.

Then move on to the next spot.

If the floor is really pitted or its a bad SLC pour, you may want to have a second go-around with it later in the day or the next day. It will shrink a bit, not much, but a tad.

Ed-diy
10-31-2006, 03:29 PM
Ok Scooter, I'll give it a try.

Does it really cure as fast as it says? "Mix amounts that can be applied in 10 minutes." ?? Thats a pretty short fuse unless you are a pro.

I'll see if the big orange box has some.

Scooter
10-31-2006, 03:54 PM
Yes, it does cure fast. You can retard the curing process by using ice cold water. That means a quart container full of ice, let it sit for 3-4 min., then add only the water to the mix.

You won't be using much, unless, as I said, the floor is very big or the dips are really deep. Each area, say 2x3 feet will take only a few seconds to flatten, like 30 seconds or so. Slather it on, pack it down a bit, then screed it off.

Just like the Karate Kid, Wax On, Wax Off. Lemme know how you do--we're here for ya.

Ed-diy
10-31-2006, 04:49 PM
I'll check HD for some Speed Finish this afternoon. It may be a few days before I can get to it - too much going on around here right now.

It's going to really get tough to get anything done around here when the snow flies. I hope to be heading off to ski whenever the snow is good.

I'll check in whenever I reach a milestone - or is that a millstone?

Thanks again,

Ed-diy
11-06-2006, 05:05 PM
I got some time this weekend and I now have a really FLAT floor! :tup1:

Scooter, I found your recommended Speed Finish at HD.
It does have a short fuse, but not as short as the advertised 10 ninutes. It does screed off well and I now have a floor that is flat within 1/16" inch over 12' in one direction and within 1/16" over 6 1/2' in the other direction. Thanks for the tip.

I'm ready to put the NobleSeal CIS down with thinset now and I have a couple of questions.

1. Noble calls for a modified thinset - I'm thinking something like TEC Full Flex. Would that be a good choice?

2. Noble also calls for a 100# roller to squeeze it down. Do you recommend that or do you have an alternate technique?

I also have the tile on order now - supposed to be in later this week. We decided on a 2" hex tile. We found it at Mission Tile West in Pasadena and also at Trans World Tile in Northridge where we bought it from our friend Warren.

It's a quality porcelain tile (AA200/HX) that is very flat (the edges don't roll over) 1/4" thick and a pure looking white. I think it will look great.

Let me know what you think. :bow:

Thanks.

Scooter
11-06-2006, 07:08 PM
Ed, I'm glad my advice turned out to be right on.

I have days where I'm such a moron, I should stay in bed.

I would follow the manufacturer's directions . I don't know what a 100 pound roller is, and I would use a large "J" type roller. I have a large one for seaming laminates on countertops. If in doubt, call Nobel, or ping their rep which is e3, but goes by the name Eric.

I would use Custom's product for thinset. They have it at HD and it is cheap and fresh.

Glad the recommendation to Mission Tile worked out, too. Those guys are awesome, aren't they? Not particularly cheap, but good quality.

Shaughnn
11-06-2006, 10:28 PM
Scooter,
The roller that Nobel is recommending is like this one, but larger. The one pictured is 75lbs. It's used for rolling out linoleum and vinyl flooring.
Shaughnn

Ed-diy
11-07-2006, 03:50 PM
Shaughnn,
I checked out the tool rental yards and found a 100 # roller for under $20 for the day. I think that will work for me. Thanks! :tup1:

Scooter,
Ok I'll pass on the TEC. I could maybe use Custom's Versabond to put the NobleSeal down and then perhaps Versabond-Flex to set the porcelain tiles. :scratch: Sound OK to you?

I hope to be able to pick up the tile later this week and get started laying it shortly thereafter. I'm going to need some tips on laying these small hextiles so I'll be back when I have the tile. :shades:
Thanks!

Scooter
11-07-2006, 04:02 PM
Versabond is my thinset of choice.

Ed-diy
11-13-2006, 04:04 PM
I just finished installing NobleSeal CIS on the bathroom floor and I must say Ditra is easier to install.

I ended up with maybe a half a dozen bubbles under the membrane that I had to slit and repair. :bang:
No bubbles under ditra!! No roller needed for Ditra either. Also be sure to install NobleSeal upside down or be prepared to weight down the edges when you install it.

I'm now getting ready to install 2" porcelain hextiles (they are about a 1/4" thick) and I would appreciate some tips on tools and technique. :scratch:

1. What size trowel would you recommend that will give me good coverage but not result in too much thinset in the joints?

2. I think the best way to do the edges is going to be to separate the edge tiles from the backing and cut them individually. Is that what you would do?

3. Do you suggest laying the field first and then coming back to fill in the edges?

Any other things that havn't even thought of yet that I will need to know to do a first class job with this tile?

At this point I am working on the layout to get the best fit.
I am going to have to finesse it a bit because the guys who built this place didn't understand the concept of square. :bonk:

Thanks,

Scooter
11-13-2006, 05:34 PM
I would start with a quarter inch knotched trowel and probably go up from there. Set the tile and lift the sheets. You are looking for 80% coverage. Check your grout line and make sure you don't have too much thinset in the grout line. You need about 50% of the depth of the tile (2/3rds is better) for the grout to stick. I often wait about 4-6 hours until the tile is set, and go over the grout lines with a painters 4-1 tool flicking out the thinset.

I don't think it matters whether you do field tile or border tile first. The important thing is to snap a lotta lines and go over them with a Sharpie to make sure you are on target.

I happen to set field tile first, starting with the course in the center of the room.

I don't know what you mean by edge tiles and backing. The sheets may have a rubber thingies on the bottom to hold the sheet together. Others have a paper backing on top. Those rubber thingies shouldn't be anywhere near the edge. There are rubber thingies, use a utility knife and cut them so you when match two sheets, there are only tile meeting tile, separated by the grout line. The rubber thingies get in the way.

I will repeat something. Find the center of your room. Use the most visible wall and assume that is square and measure off that 90į. Find the distance of that room and bisect it on that same base line. Make a 90į line off that. This is dead center.

Now using these lines, you will set your actual grout lines, by measuring your sheets and figuring out where the sheets fall. Because the grout lines are random, you can have skinny sheets on either end, but ideally you want close to full or half tiles when it hits the wall.

You will do well if you cut some 4 and 5 point halves, and have a couple hundred of them, if Mission Tile doesn't sell them pre-cut. I like to adjust the grout lines toward the end of the room to accomodate these halves, but with a 2 inch mosiac, you may end up with three quarters or a quarter.

Lay out, Lay out, Lay out--will determine how good your job looks.

Ed-diy
11-20-2006, 12:37 AM
Scooter,

I've been busy finishing up details on my other project but I did get a chance to work on the layout ...and the layout ...and the layout. :bang: Like you said, it's a tricky task with the small tiles and the out of square room but I think I have a pretty good handle on it now. Looks like it will work out OK.

Oh yeah the tile -- well it will have to wait now. Alta Utah has snow now and we are off to ski for a week. : :yipee:

I hope to get started setting the tile when we return.

Thanks again for all your help. :bow:

Ed-diy
12-01-2006, 04:43 PM
Hello Scooter,

I'm back from sking in Utah and hope to set some tile - maybe this weekend.

After reading your post #29 - which tells me all I need to know about how to set this tile :tup2: - I have one more question.
What is the best way to get the surface of the tile flat when setting these 12" x 12" sheets??

BTW these tiles are on a mesh - No little rubber thingies here. I am assuming I will need to cut each edge tile individually rather than trying to cut the wole sheet on the saw. Correct ? :scratch:


Thanks

Scooter
12-01-2006, 05:16 PM
If your slab ain't flat, then you will have tiles at different heights. You need to fix your slab with SLC or a patching compound.

If the mesh is on the bottom of the tile, just set the sheets in the combed thinset. The edges of the sheet should be clean and free of the mesh, so you can move the sheet in and out to get a good grout line.

If the mesh is on the top of the sheet, like a paper backing, just lay the sheet in the combed thinset, wait until it cures, and use water to remove the paper backing.

Ed-diy
12-03-2006, 12:27 AM
Scooter,

The slab is already FLAT. See post #23.

The mesh is on the bottom of the tile -- I was wondering what you use to press the tile into the thinset so as to get a uniform flat surface??

Unfortunately the grout lines are not uniform on the sheets so it looks like it will be a slow process setting this tile. :bang:

BTW, do you cut all of the edge tiles individually??

Thanks,

Ed-diy
12-05-2006, 04:37 PM
Scooter are you out there??

Ed-diy
12-28-2006, 05:40 PM
Hello to all...
I hope everyone enjoyed their holidays... Oops they aren't over yet... Happy New Year too!!! :topicoff:

Back to tile... I've got my HexTile bathroom floor set - all 54 square feet of it. It looks great :yipee: an the wife likes it too!

Scooter -- thanks for all the tips. Layout is #1 and I got it just right. I set the field first and then came back and cut and set all of the edge pieces. Tedious process but the great results are worth it. I ended up using a 1/4" x 3/16" v notched trowel with good results and Shaughnn's method with a small brush to clean the grout lines as I set the tile.

Now I'm ready to grout. I'm planning to use SpectraLoc Pro grout (grout lines are about 3/32") in "Smoke Grey" or "Sterling Silver" they are light to medium grey in color.

Is Spectralock Pro a good choice? What do you think about the light grey color choice? Is it something you would use? Any other tips would be appreciated. :bow:

I've got a really nice floor now and I want to get this right.

Thanks.

Ed-diy
01-03-2007, 03:28 PM
Bump

Scooter
01-03-2007, 04:07 PM
I never, and I mean never, use any grout which is darker than the tile. If the grey is lighter than the tile, you are OK.

Spectralock is a good grout.

Ed-diy
01-04-2007, 03:25 PM
Hello Scooter,



These hextiles are white. Does your last post mean you would never use any grout other than white with them or do you mean you would only use very light shades in other grout colors? :scratch:

Ed-diy
01-05-2007, 04:23 PM
bump

YuHu
01-06-2007, 09:25 AM
Hi Ed-
I remember reading somewhere that back in the day that hex was really in use (1920's-30's + ?), gray grout was used because that was all there was at the time.
-Holly

Ed-diy
01-12-2007, 02:51 PM
Thanks for the response Holly. My reply is a bit late because I've been out of town skiing. We are thinking a grey grout would look OK with the white hextile.

I was hoping for some input from someone who sets a lot of hextile and has had a good opportunity to see what it looks like with different grout. Maybe even a link to some photos.

Anyone out there with recommendations?

Thanks,

Scooter
01-12-2007, 03:49 PM
White or the darkest I would go would be an Ivory. No, I would not use grey.

Here's the deal with a dark grout. It will highlight every imperfection you have, so if the tiles are irregular (not the case with porceline hex) or the spacing is slightly off, your eyes will immediately be drawn to it.

I would pick white for the grout, Ed.

Trampus
01-14-2007, 10:02 PM
One note about hex tiles. From a historic standpoint, white grout would not be appropriate. On the other hand, you have to be confidant in your work to go with anything else when it comes to Hex tile. I have(and liked) to use a mixture of Delorean grey and White. Three parts white to one part Grey. I mix the dry grout up than use normally. You may want to make a small board and do some tests. I found no colors of grout that I was satisfied with. I personally do not like to mix White and off white to me it looks dirty Light grey looks sharp. Donít be afraid to experiment, but of course don't put anything down until you are sure hex tiles are not like 12" x 12" you canít just fix a grout color mistake. Have fun.

PS I will get a pic of a shower I did with this color as soon as I can.

Shaughnn
01-15-2007, 08:21 AM
Trampus,
I'm going to disagree with you. The ONLY grout colors which are "historically accurate" are "Bright White" and "Natural Gray" as all "historical grouting was done by seating the tiles in a pure coat of either white portland cement or natural gray portland cement and then broadcasting silica sand into the oozed joints.
Shaughnn

Scooter
01-15-2007, 11:20 AM
Other than my color choice, I suggest you lay some tile on 2-3 pieces of scrap CBU and grout it with the 2-3 color choices, and you decide.

Ed-diy
01-17-2007, 04:01 PM
OK,

Since you guys donít agree Iím going to take all of your advice.
What Iím going to do is take Scooterís advice and Trampusís advice and make some test boards. Iím also going to take Shaughnnís advice and because Iím going to test only white and grey. And Iím probably going to try more than one shade of grey.
All kidding aside I think this is the best way to do it Ė put some spare tile down and do some test grouting.
Like I said I donít want to screw this thing up at this stage and this is the only way I will feel comfortable.

Thanks for all the tips. Now I will use them to sort out the solution.

Thanks,

Scooter
01-17-2007, 04:26 PM
I make up such boards all the time for customers. For tile, For Wooden Trim, for Paint, and other stuff. This is what an interior designer or architect might do if he was spec'ing the job.

Ed-diy
02-12-2007, 04:56 PM
Hello to all..

Been gone skiing to Canada.

Before I left I did some test boards as discussed above after which the wife and I selected SpectraLOCK Pro Silver Shadow. It is a light grey which reads almost white but does provide some definition to the hextiles. I have grouted the floor with it and it looks great. The wife loves it. Thanks for all the tips!! :bow:

That means that I have almost finished this project. I need to install the marble thresholds at the two doors and caulk the perimeter. Laticrete has a matching caulk.

I am using Thassos White marble thresholds that I had fabricated. I think I need to seal them before I install them and I am considering using an Aqua Mix product, either Sealers Choice Gold which is water based or Ultra-Solv which is solvent based. They are both penetrating sealers.

I would appreciate any comments on the appropriateness
of these sealers. :scratch:

Should I post this question on the Cleaning, Restoration And Sealing Forum instead? :scratch:

Scooter
02-12-2007, 04:58 PM
I like the water based Aqua Mix better.

Ed-diy
02-13-2007, 01:52 PM
Thanks, Scooter.

I'll use the water based sealer. Now all I have to do is find some in pint size and then get back to work. :tup2:

Ed-diy
06-25-2007, 10:10 PM
OK, Itís been awhile.

Iíve been in and out of town, working on other projects, and the computer has been down for a time.

In the interim Iíve finished my hex tile bathroom project.

As I mentioned earlier I selected the SpectraLOCK Pro Silver Shadow and it turned out great. Next I installed my Thassos White marble thresholds after triple sealing them with Aqua Mix Seaalers Choice Gold. Then I caulked the perimeter with Latisil which is not a dead on match but very close. The only thing left to do was to install the new toilet and the project was complete.

I think it turned out great! :yipee: Pictures follow---

Needless to say I couldnít have done it without all of your help and advice. Thanks to you all Ė Scooter in particular. :clap1: :bow:

Shaughnn
06-25-2007, 10:15 PM
Ed,
That is a beautiful looking job. The floor looks fantastic and the material choices all work cohesively. Absolutely, GREAT JOB! :tup2:
Shaughnn
PS: My wife just looked over my shoulder and said, "Wow, that's nice!" :)

Ed-diy
06-25-2007, 10:15 PM
:idea: I couldn't get these Pics in the last post. -- Thought you might want to see the details.

chuck stevenson
06-26-2007, 03:48 AM
Ed,

Nice job! I see a lot of planning and thought in your work.

Dave Taylor
06-26-2007, 05:55 AM
I've always liked that tile style..... if'n I look at it long enough it kinda' turns 'three-dee' and jumps out at me.

Gives me sumpin' to entertain myself while waitin'.

Ed-diy
06-27-2007, 02:16 PM
Thanks for the comments guys. It wouldn't have been possible without you!

Shaughnn, Thanks for your advice. You and Scooter were both a great help. :king:

Scooter, are you out there? :stick:

Scooter
06-27-2007, 02:59 PM
Oh yeah--I'm here.

If you wanna a day job, I have some tile work for you.

Ed-diy
06-28-2007, 02:03 PM
Hey Scooter -- I'm "retired". I've got 71 years behind me now! :gerg: Besides, I've got more than a full time job here at home. I'm a compulsive DIYer, some would say pathological.

A few years back I single handed a brand new clay tile roof on my house -- I pulled the old shingle roof -- did some structural work and dryrot repairs -- then new 5/8" plywood sheathing -- underlayment -- then tile. San Franando valley in July and August. Neighbors thought I was nuts! :bang:

Next I have a floor to do in one more room -- but that's another story. I've got a few questions coming up on that project too but I'll probably go back to my other thread or start a new one for that.

Thanks for keeping me on the right track! :bow:

Oldrem
06-28-2007, 02:26 PM
Great looking work Ed ! :clap1: