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guitarsman
10-03-2006, 10:35 PM
Hi everyone. I have some Glass tile to do on a Kitchen Back Splash. The tiles are 6x6 . there is existing laminate on the wall now. I thought that I would remove the laminate since it is loose in a couple of spots and go over the drywall with white thinset mortar. The company that sold the Glass tile said that you can't go over drywall, that you have to use CBU and use a crack suppression membrane then tile over it. The Splash is 16" high and about 6' long on one end and about 8' "L" shaped on the other side with thre electrical outlets to cut around. This sounds like over kill for just a Back Splash. There is a Fridge in the milddle of this Splash. The customer doesn't want to tile behind the Fridge so i would stop at the fridge and begin on the other side of it. Does anyone have any suggestions on the application of this Glass Tile. Thanks Phil

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Trask
10-04-2006, 12:24 AM
Is the tile by M2? If it is they are fairly particular about what you stick to and with what. As most manufactures who have been around awhile, they know what tolerances their product can deal with..I'd stay in their respective bounds.

T_Hulse
10-04-2006, 01:14 AM
Yeah Phil, what's the manufacturer & style of the tile?

guitarsman
10-04-2006, 08:36 AM
Hi and thanks for responding. It's called Lake Garda by Ann Sacks. A 6x6 Glass Tile 6mm thick.
Phil

Trask
10-04-2006, 08:57 AM
Why not go with manufactures specs? It's a very expensive material if it's from Ann..so the customer shouldn't be shocked by the added expense. It's a specialty material and the price should reflect it.

guitarsman
10-04-2006, 09:21 AM
Ok , I just talked to MapeI about their Crack Isolation Membrane and they say the same thing. I just thought it was a bit much for a back splash but i was wrong. I do want to do this right , so thanks for all of your advise on this project.

_______________
Phil

thecrow
10-04-2006, 11:15 PM
Cement Board and Crack surpression seems just a bit of overkill to me. Manufacturers tend to over engineer some things because they don't want problems. I have successfully installed quite a bit of glass tile in showers and backsplashes. Showers were always on CBU without any type of AFR. If you are really worried about tiling directly on drywall, I would use a trowell on type of membrane at the very most(Custom Building Products makes one,as does Hydroment). Taking into consideration the high cost of Ann Sacks products the two prep steps would not hurt, but might provide peace of mind if anything at all.

Trask
10-05-2006, 12:28 AM
Sure it's overkill, but then that's the way they want it done..and that's how I'd do it. I've been a cowboy tile guy half my life breaking the rules and making up my own when I felt the need :suspect: ..the problems come back in unforseen droves and you haven't a wobbly leg to stand on. 99% of the time the manufacture has tested their products to function in a specific manner and environment given a proven method. That's not to say that it won't always work if you don't prescribe to their instructions...your just out of luck if your the poor sap that gets the wrong set of circumstances or variables. You gotta know the product upside down before you start pushing it's limitations...this one seems exceptional enough that I'd play by their rules.


Phil you might call Ann Sacks and see if you can get some tech reasoning as to why they want a membrane & cbu.