levelling floors with vitex vs. cement [Archive] - Ceramic Tile Advice Forums - John Bridge Ceramic Tile


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10-19-2002, 06:33 PM
floors are pretty wavy.

first, we eliminate the bounce in the floor where the tile is subjected to traffic. we open the subfloor to brace between I joists (set 24" o.c. and covered with 5/8" ply, not 3/4"), reinstall new 5/8" ply, then a build[-up of 3/4" ply to come up to cement height.

went to install underlayment (Hardi) in the next units kitchen. the 3/4" ply left us level at the entry, but a 1/4" shy at the opposite end and along our main run of base cabs.

with limited time and materials available, we installed the Hardi to existing floor level + 1/16" at the end opposite the entry and at the cab run, leaving us 1/4 " high at the entry. levelled off remaining existing floor surface around the Hardi with Vitex (had no time for 2 - 3 hour set times). though no thickness allowance is stated on Vitex, i used to use Durabond Webpatch for surfacing floors prior to vinyl installs and that product stated 1/8" maximum thickness. above that, we had to switch to a second Durabond product (a cementous product that was designated by a # that i can't recall) mixed with latex additive. the cabinet installer is going to be much happier, but...

can i get opinions here on Vitex as an appropriate material for levelling floors under ceramic tile?

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10-19-2002, 07:55 PM

Cement based?
Gypsum based? If it is then.....NO

Hope this helps

10-19-2002, 08:01 PM
A cement Based Leveler is what you need.Planipatch is one.C-cure underlayment patch is another.there are dozens of which Vitex is not one i have ever heard of.Like KW said Vitex???????

John Bridge
10-19-2002, 09:28 PM
A Yahoo search turns up more herbal remedies than anything else.

Hi Brian,

Are you sure of the spelling?

10-19-2002, 09:32 PM
I liked the one that was a guaranteed bullet-proof coating for flexible LEDs. Pretty soon we'll be able to roll up our computer monitors like blueprints.

Hey! It said it was Vitex. :)

Bud Cline
10-19-2002, 10:11 PM
Vitex?...I know Vitex.

Vitex is a rapid setting gypsum floor patch.

Vitex is in no way campatible with any of the products used to install ceramic tile.

Vitex will jeopardize the tile installation.

Vitex is used to patch ahead of vinyl floor coverings.

Vitex should come out before proceeding.

Now...we all know Vitex.

10-19-2002, 10:28 PM
thanks, people. glad that i double checked.

Vitex is a gypsum-based floor levelling product supplied at home depot.

We used vitex around the perimeter of the kitchen and are covered by cabinets and appliances.

You all are tempting me to experiment, though, because the reasons why the installation is jeopardized aren't stated. Poor adherence, increased possibility of future separation of the vitex layer from the concrete/thinset, just not as strong as thinset/cement, not structural, additional inconsistent material (non-cementous), past experience, standards???


i assume that, in your opinion, that if a level spots in the underlayment surface with vitex that i'm jeopardizing my installation as well.

my previous experience was with vinyl floor installations, Bud. guess it shows, huh?

while i'm switching to some cementous product (i recognize the c cure name) available at homeowner's depot (only supplier i'm at liberty to use on this particular job), does anyone know the name of the durabond product with the # that i referred to? this is the product that i wish to use...

thanx for the input. cannot believe how fast the response was.


John Bridge
10-20-2002, 10:24 AM
Here it is in a nut shell, Brian. Your stuff will break down when and if it gets damp. Our stuff won't. Our stuff is essentially concrete. ;)

10-20-2002, 01:47 PM
Can't use CBUs over I-joists on 24" centers. Use Ditra. CBUs are not qualified for that spacing, or for I-joists, for that matter.

10-21-2002, 10:30 PM
we open up the subfloor, brace 16" oc between the i'joists down the length of the kichen corridor, and close back up before proceeding with levelling and cbu installation.

is your point that the I-beams will sag because they are bearing more weight when spaced 24" apart, regardless of what we may do inbetween them?

As far as my mistake with the vitex, i was actually curious why tearout was the only remedy suggested and not simply the addition of a membrane or slipsheet?

since the areas i must tear out are small, i'll proceed that way, and in the meantime research Ditra.

thanks for the engineering and applications advice, all...

brian O :-)