Shower Confusion [Archive] - Ceramic Tile Advice Forums - John Bridge Ceramic Tile

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Tony
08-11-2001, 06:44 PM
I am getting ready to remodel a bathroom and plan on installing a tiled shower floor. I've done tile work before but after reading (maybe too much) I am confused about which way to go on some of the steps.
1) Does I use adhesive under the membrane or does the weight of the morter bed hold it in place?
2) Is it better to fold over the corners or notch the studs and push the "ears" through the stud?
3) Do the CBU's get set in the morter bed 1/2 inch above the membrane or sit on top of the morter bed with a bead of silicone between?
4) Floor or wall first?
5) What do I do if I can't find the dam corners?
6) Does it matter how high the top of the drain sits, the PVC subdrain has an adjustable top.

I also came across Noble Products on the web http://www.noblecompany.com. They have this Pro-Slope that would save a step. The local distributer will only sell to contractors, so I would have to get it mail order. The costs seem high Pro-Slope $25, CPE $1.93 sq.ft. and $17.79 for the NobleSeal, plus shipping. About $100 total. Is it worth it?

Love your board

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John Bridge
08-12-2001, 07:19 AM
Welcome aboard, Tony.

I'm not the best qualified guy to talk about CBU showers, since I build all my showers out of mud. I'll let someone else address the CBU part.

The pan istallation is the same for mud or for CBUs.

If you are going over a wood subfloor, you apply a moisture barrier (tar paper or poly) and then nail down a piece of expanded metal lath or chicken wire. Keep it close to the floor, as you won't be applying much mud over it.

Then pre-slope the floor using deck mud (sand and cement, easy on the water).

If your floor is concrete, bond the mud directly to the slab with pure portland. Sprinkle dry portland over the slab and wet it with a sponge. Get the mud on it immediately and slope it.


I think you can find the dam corners if you check with a regular plumbing supply house that deals a lot with showers. It's possible to make it without them, but it takes a lot of judicious cutting, creativity and glue.

The height of the insert portion of the drain doesn't matter, except that it needs to be a minimum of 1-1/4 in. above the upper drain flange.

For my part, the Noble products aren't worth the money. PVC liners are cheap, readily available and last at least forty years if not forever. Oatey and Pasco are two brands I use regularly. You can get everything you need (except dam corners) at Home Depot.

Rob Z
08-12-2001, 09:54 AM
Tony

Unless you are going to waterproof the outer surface of the cement board, the "Gospel" of the tile industry is to let the cement board be separated from the floor mud by about 1/4", with the gap filled with silicone.

For a cement board on the walls shower, I either notch the lower portion oif the studs OR add furring strips to the studs above the pan. This prevents the board from bowing out at the bottom where it goes over the pan material.
I've never tried to do the splitting the studs in the corner thing.

The price for the slope is about right, the price for the CPE is okay ( I buy it by the roll, so it's a lot cheaper), and the price for the nobleseal is high.

Rob