Lane's Fireplace Transformation

[laniepoo7]

Hi everyone! I enjoy reading all of the posts.

I am in the process of refinishing a rough-hewn brick fireplace and found the perfect ceramic tile for the surround. Instead of putting the tile right on the brick, it was recommended to install cement backerboard over the brick with fasteners because the brick itself is such an uneven surface. Since I will be installing on the cement backerboard, is it necessary to have big grout lines? Can I get away with tiny grout lines for a 8 X 10 glazed tile? I'm installing the tile in a brick wall fashion...

Lane G.

[Sponsored Links]

[JWhitt]

I'm not sure if there's a rule of thumb on what size your grout lines have to be for a fireplace. You say your using 8x10 tiles? Why not go with 1/8" lines? It's not to tight and not to big.

[bbcamp]

Even with backerboard, the surface will not be perfectly flat, and your tiles will not be perfectly sized, so a grout line is necessary. Whether you can get by with a 1/8" line depends on the tile and the flatness.

[laniepoo7]

The tile is pretty flat & only about 5/16" thick. It is a ceramic tile, but not rough at all. The back of the tile looks to be pretty even (with some indentations for better adhesion). I would like to go with a 1/8" grout line (since I must have one)...Thanks!

Now I'll be putting the cement backerboard over an uneven brick wall. I was thinking that the 1/2" X 3' X 5' boards would work best because they would add the stiffness needed since the brick wall is so uneven. What is the best type of fastener to use in this situation? I'm refacing the whole facade of the fireplace as seen below. The tiles are 8" X 10" ceramic. Any ideas?

Also, since the fireplace protrudes from the wall, can I just use a bullnose tile on the corners of the fireplace, or do I have use something special there (like the cornerbead used in drywall installations)? Thanks for all of your help! This is my first tile job and I'm excited about it!

[laniepoo7]

I'm getting a home inspection tomorrow. Should I have him double-check the joists under the fireplace to ensure that it can take the addtional load of the new ceramic tile? The house was built in 1966 and seems to be very sound (no squeaks, no noticeable deflection, etc...

Lane

[JWhitt]

Might try corrosionresistant hot-dipped galvanized roofing nails. Length depends on installation — for vertical applications
(BackerBoard), nails must penetrate (11⁄2") into a framing member; horizontal applications (Underlayment) must allow for
full penetration of the subfloor material.

BackerBoard products have a
Class A Fire Rating, Flame spread — 0, Smoke developed — 5, per ASTM E84.

Don't forget what your reveal will look like since your adding a 1/2" here and there.. :laugh2: lol

[laniepoo7]

Thanks for the advice again. The brick fireplace looks like it is solid brick. Can I anchor into the brick itself, or do I have to go through the brick to the framing underneath? I don't believe it is brick facade, rather a brick wall in the middle of the house...Are there special anchors that should be used? Thanks again. I look forward to tackling this project and will post pictures through the progress...

Lane

[laniepoo7]

Last question, I promise... :cool: Would 3/8" plywood under 3/8" CBU enough for the hearth that I plan to build up to be a step? I didn't want a floor hearth...

Thanks again!

Lane

[JWhitt]

:) Talked with another tile setter today about your situation. He mentioned wire brushing the bricks clean then just sticking your tiles to the exsiting bricks. Either way, if you try to anchor your backerboard to the brick, it most likely won't come out flat and true.So, if your going to stick your tiles straight to the brick. Then you might ask all the older pro's in this forum what thinsets would be best to apply here. lots of heat to consider and how well it sticks to the brick. Wish I could give you a solid answer on what to do here, just never been in the situation your in. From the looks of your pic. I assume you could trowel your bricks with maybe a 1/2" trowel and the same for your tile. Thats quite a bit of thinset to squish around. Which should give you enough play to make your tiles come out flat & level. There might be a specific brand of brick cleaner to prep and maybe a sealer that is designed for heat/fireplace surrounds. Thats my two cents on it. And I'll probably get some flak from the other pros around here if I'm completely wrong about this.

How high do you plan to make this "step" and whats the purpose of it? Most the fireplaces I've seen here run flush to surrounding floors. So to me a step would look weird to me, like building a shower curb to high. But, if there was 2 steps leading up into the fireplace, that would look like it had some purpose to me. :twitch:

Well lanipoo7, I hope some more people reply to your thread with more info than I've suggested. I'm sure someone here knows what to do step by step,done it a million times.

[laniepoo7]

I think I'm building the step to Narnia..LOL
Actually, I just wanted to build up the hearth like in those home & garden magazines. The opening of the fireplace is not on the floor, but about 7" above the floor.

As for attaching the backerboard to the brick, I thought that would be a bit easier to deal with rather than trying to level the brick exactly. I thought putting up furring strips would create a level surface to attach the backerboard, so I guess I answered my own question there :)

Thanks...

Lane

[laniepoo7]

I was proposing putting up 1/4" furring strips vertically on the fireplace, shiming where necessary to create a plumb surface to attach the backerboard. Do you see a problem with this idea? Any idea about how big the anchors have to be to hold the weight of the backerboard, mortar, tile & grout? I'll be starting this project in the next 2 weeks and want to start gathering my materials this weekend...Thanks again. I'll put up pitchers throughout the project...

Lane

[laniepoo7]

Below is a diagram of what I plan to do. I would attach the tiles right to the brick, but I think the brick is too rough to be able to smooth out using thinset. Does my plan look feasible? Since the wood will be under the CBU, does anyone think that this is a potential fire hazard?

[laniepoo7]

Just thought I'd catch you guys before y'all took a break and a beer...

[laniepoo7]

Anyone with any advice?

Lane

[Westie]

Would 3/8" plywood under 3/8" CBU enough for the hearth that I plan to build up to be a step? I didn't want a floor hearth...

Lane

I would check your code requirements before you put any wood in a hearth. Even covered with CBU and tile I don't think this would meet code.

[cx]

What Westie said. :shades:

Depending upon the size of the firebox, you usually can't have combustible materials within about a foot of the sides and twenty inches on the hearth. And a layer of tile is not enough to change that. You really want to do all the build-up around that thing with masonary-type materials.

My opinion; worth price charged.

[laniepoo7]

I'm getting ready to start the fireplace project and have made a couple of changes to the original plan. We decided to drywall above the mantel, build a mantel (that allows for a 12" space between the walls of the firebox and the mantel itself), and use a marble tile around the fireplace opening and hearth.

I'll be applying the tile right to the brick of the fireplace, so besides wirebrushing the face and cleaning very well, any ideas of what type of thinset I should use?

I'm looking to attach a 3/8" thick marble directly to the face.

Also, how do tilesetters get away with butting marble tiles together with no grout lines? I'll have very few cuts and would like the smallest space possible between tiles. Thanks!

Lane

[laniepoo7]

I forgot to ask...

The deflecto meter says no for natural stone, but is this just as a floor covering? I wanted to put the marble on the hearth as well (it is flush with the floor) in an area that is 19" deep and 84" wide. Since the hearth will carry no foot traffic, is it OK to put natural stone there, or should I look for a porcelain alternative? Thanks again!

Lane

[bbcamp]

You got 11 square feet of prime livingroom real estate and you think no one is going to stand there? Nobody going to drop a log? :D Seriously, if you want marble on the hearth, see if you can sister the joists, but do double up on the plywood subfloor. I won't guarantee that your marble won't crack, though.

Use a white modified medium set mortar to set the tiles. The surface irregularities will be too deep for thinset. If you want to first skim coat the fireplace with thinset and let that cure, then you could use thinset to set the marble.

Setting the tile butted together requires that the tile be exactly the same size, and the surface you are tiling on to be exactly flat. Allowing a 1/16" to 1/8" grout line will make all the difference when you go to set the tile.

[laniepoo7]

Based on what I read in the liberry about sistering joists, I think I'll look for a suitable porcelain look-alike since Deflecto says I can have ceramic tile...

I think two coats of thinset would work best because of the irregular surface of the brick. The brick used on this fireplace wall is not smooth at all and the mortar is appoximately 1/4" - 3/8 " from the surface of the brick, based on the surface of the brick. So if I spread the first coat of thinset to its max thickness of 3/8", and allow that to cure, I should be all set to set the tiles with thinset.

Thanks again for all of y'alls help and I'll post a pic when I get started this weekend...

Lane

[laniepoo7]

How long do I have to let the first coat of thinset cure before setting the tile? I have seen suggestions of 24 hours to one week! I live in southeast Michigan, but this is an inside job...Thanks in advance!

Lane

[Shaughnn]

Hi Lane,
That's a beautiful fireplace already. How much do you plan to cover with tile? If this were a job I was asked to tackle, I'd use masonry screws to attach expanded metal lathe and float the face and sides before setting.
But, since I'm not the one doing it and you seem dead-set on CBU here, I'll offer my wooden nickle's worth.
Firstly, I'd look at what sort of tile trim is available to coordinate with this tile you plan on using. Not only will you need to turn the outside corners, but you will also need to close the gap at the firebox also. Are there 1/4-round tile available? If only surface bullnose is to be had, how do you plan to bridge the gap at the firebox? Assuming that you will use surface bullnose to wrap the outside corners, how will the tile's dimensions line up with those outside cuts? With a large tile like you are planning to use, you will need to be more carefull with your layout to prevent an awkward cut in the alternating course of a brick-bond installation. What lines out as a larger than half-sized cut on one course can become a pencil-thin cut on the course above it. To fix this, you may need to adjust your entire layout by 1/3 of a tile to one side. You won't end up with equal sized cuts at opposite ends of the same course but they will be balanced through the whole installation.
Best of luck,
Shaughnn

[laniepoo7]

Of course, the plans for the fireplace have changed...

I'm now drywalling the top of the fireplace and tiling only below the mantel. I thought I could overhang a polished end on the outside corner and have the other side butt up against that corner (see attached picher).

Since the tile will only be set below the mantel, I plan to use two coats of thinset to even out the brick surface and set the tile there. Since I'm now using 3/8" marble tile, I had thought to do a similar thing in the firebox as on the corners.

The surface of the brick is VERY rough. Do you still think I need metal lathe?

Lane

[Shaughnn]

Hi Lane,
IF this is a functional fire-box, I'd eliminate the stone from it's interior. Instead, give it a good scrubbing with a wire brush and a solution of TSP (tri-sodium phosphate) and make sure to rinse it well after. Once the firebox is cleaned out and neutralized with a baking soda solution and rinsed again, it may not need re-facing at all?
I like the idea of floating out the brick face of the fireplace. Once again, you will need to scrub the brick and joints with a wire brush and TSP and neutralize with baking soda and plenty of clean water to rinse. Use a straight-edge/level and some chalk to mark your "high" bricks and you can use a grinder (AND A VACCUUM) to knock down those bumps before cleaning. Sometimes you can just use another hard brick to rub them down but that's tedious and leads to hand cramps, but it's probably much cleaner. :)
I would mask off the areas that you DON'T want thinset on before floating out the brick face and plan on using a good quality modified thin-set (if not a "crete" product). Since you will be able to key into the brick face, there's no real need to use a metal lathe in this case. If you were floating out the whole face, I'd say the metal lathe would be important.
Best of luck,
Shaughnn
PS: TSP will stain/ bleach your carpet and hardwood if it gets on it so take precautions and cover your floors well with plastic and drop cloths, if you can.

[laniepoo7]

I didn't realize that an acid wash would be necessary for the face of the bricks. There are beautiful hardwood floors in this room and I can just see ruining them. Would it be easier to attache 1/4" CBU to the face of the brick with masonry screws? Or if I used metal lathe, would I still need the acid wash? I was going to paint the inside of the firebox with firebox paint (black) so on second thought, I don't think any stone within the firebox is necessary...

Lane

[laniepoo7]

I have an angle grinder (Yea, new toy!)...Would it be possible to miter the thickness of the marble tile with it, or do I run the risk of cracking the tile? Any suggestions?

Lane

[Shaughnn]

Lane, You can easily protect the floors with plastic and blue masking tape.
Shaughnn

[laniepoo7]

I'll be scrubbing and rinsing this weekend to start on the fireplace refacing (I want to finish before the painter starts the walls).

Any ideas on the angle grinder for mitering the corners of the marble tile? I'll be gathering all of my materials as well this weekend...Thanks!

Lane

[Shaughnn]

Lane,
I can miter stone with my Makita grinder but it's a tricky bit of work. Wear eye protection and a dust mask and put the stone on a sturdy surface. I'd practice on scrap before I turned myself loose on a finish product. Take your time and remember that it's easier to take off a little more than it is to put it back on again.
Best of luck,
Shaughnn

[laniepoo7]

Yet another change was made to the fireplace as we were searching for materials. In that the marble cost over 2x the amount of a beautiful ceramic, we decided to go with the look-alike. It came with a bullnose AND accent pieces. All of the materials came to a lot less than the accent marble pieces...I start the project tomorrow and I'll be sure to post pics of the process, if anyone is interested...

Lane

[John Bridge]

We are interested, Lane. :)

[laniepoo7]

I have 2 questions:

1. Can I use something like quikrete concrete to do the first skim coat on the brick and then use Versabond to set the tile? Or should I use 2 coats of Versabond?

2. I found a TSP substitute no-rinse formula. Is this any good, or should I go back & get the real TSP stuff that has to be neutralized? The TSP substitute I have says no-rinse, but I was going to rinse it anyway...

Thanks!

Lane

[laniepoo7]

I wanted to start the scrubbing tonight and want to make sure I have the right thing to start. Thanks again! :yeah:

Lane

[bbcamp]

Use the versabond. Quikcrete concrete mix isn't sticky enough. Mason's mix (brick mortar) may work, too.

TSP substitute and a good rinse will be fine.

[laniepoo7]

I'll post pichers tomorrow when I'm done scrubbing...I'm so excited about this project, I've been dreaming about tile... :dance:
Lane

[laniepoo7]

I think next I will drywall the top of the fireplace (Masonry screws attaching some furring strips to the brick, drywall on top of that). That would give me an idea of how far the brick should be mortared out. I'll post pics when the drywall is done...

Lane

[laniepoo7]

Man, I have all new respect for you mud guys...I (unfortuneately) had to mix the VersaBond by hand (I only had a small patch to do, so it wasn't too bad or lumpy). That stuff is HEAVY!

I mised it to the consistency of peanut butter and used my hands in putting it on the brick. I first rubbed some into the brick surface and then added thinset to fill in the spaces more completely. To recap, I'm filling in the big spaces in the grout lines in an effort to flatten the surface before tiling the fireplace.

I have one question: What happens if in some places, the thinset is more than 3/8" thick? Will it fall away from the brick? Will it crack or somehow mess up the tile installation? I was trying to be careful in the thickness of the thinset I applied, but am not 100% sure there aren't some places where the thinset is more like 1/2" thick...

Lane

[bbcamp]

The thinset thickness issue comes into play more so on floors than walls. It has to to with compressive strength, which isn't going to be a problem on your fireplace. Don't worry about.

[laniepoo7]

I am so happy I don't have to worry about that. :dance: The second coat of thinset goes on this evening and I should get a nice, level, flat surface to affix my tiles on Wednesday. I really understand what you mean about the thinset being sticky. That stuff is what tar pits is made of....LOL

Lane

[laniepoo7]

How long should I wait for the first layer of thinset to cure before going back over it? I wanted to level off every thing in preparation to set the tile tomorrow, but if it is better to wait another day, I have plenty of other things to do in the house!

Lane

[laniepoo7]

I think you have to wait to put a second coat on when the first coat is completely dry (kind of like nail polish...LOL). I can see areas of the fireplace where the thinset is still the darker grey versus the lighter grey where it has dried. So when everything is the lighter grey, I'll put on the second coat to smooth everything out.

So what is y'alls opinion? Should I apply a second coat of thinset to smooth everything out to be perfectly flat before tiling, or should I appy the thinset and then the tile, adjusting for level and plumb? The fireplace has spots (the size of a quarter to the size of a dime) that are only about 3/16" too low...

Thanks for your input! I'll post pics tonite...

[bbcamp]

Dips that small can be leveled as you tile.

[laniepoo7]

Man, I'm gonna owe you an adult beverage when I'm done with this fireplace...I can invite you down to our newly remodled basement complete with wet bar and home theatre system!

Thanks!

[laniepoo7]

...So I'll be doing it tonight. I'm using 1/16" grout lines in between the tile. I have the spacers and everyting! So I'll let y'all know how it is going tomorrow (along with those pichers I've been promising...)

Wish me luck at my first tile job EVER!!!

[laniepoo7]

OK, no pichers and I haven't started tiling yet...:bang:

But I have a question...

I wanted to start tiling tonight, but have to go out of town this weekend. How long can I wait after setting the tile to grout? Would things be bad if I tilied today and didn't grout until Monday or Tuesday?

Thanks again you guys!!

[bbcamp]

Most folks ask "How soon can I grout?":D

You can wait as long as you want. Just keep the dirt an' dust bunnies out of the grout lines.

[laniepoo7]

I'll be going to a tile store a little later to see if I can find tile quarter-round to finish the edges (I don't like the bullnose that matches the tile). If I can't find anything I like, where can I find the Schluter JOLLY pieces to finish the front? I found an online distributor, but they charge $21 for shipping and the order total only came to $8.

Thanks!

[bbcamp]

Home Depot is a Schluter distributer. They can special order anything inthe Schluter product line that they don't stock in the store.

Also, there's a link in our on-line store to Tile-Experts.com. I don't know how much the shipping will be, but their prices are as low or lower than anywhere else.

[laniepoo7]

I called the great guy @ tile-experts and he actually suggested I see if the big orange box had some in stock so I could save on shipping. Lo and behold, they had some in stock in the color I wanted :king: . I decided to go with the Jolly instead of the Rondec...

I happened to be there when they were conducting a how-to on tile. I stopped in just to see what they were talking about and sure enough, the guy was pushing that "Stand 'n Seal" stuff...When the Orange guy went away, I told the peole in the forum to not even think about it, just use the other spray (non-aerosol) or paint on sealer. I just saved 3 lives :dance: !!

The Orange guy had me run through my project and after I was done said that I knew what I was doing and could teach the class! I want to thank all of y'all for adding to my knowledge. One of the guys was tiling a fireplace too and he said that I was very helpful to him & his project. I told him to come and post here with his project for even more help...I'm a John Bridge Forum missionary ;)

Plans changed and I wasn't able to set the tile last night, so the tile setting will have to wait until Monday. I'm sure I'll have other questions once I start that phase of the project. Thanks again, and I love you guys!!

[bbcamp]

JB oughta send you a stack of TYW stickers! :D

[laniepoo7]

...I'm starting to think there is more to this tiling stuff other than sticking tiles on a wall...

Everything is dry and level and I was ready to start sticking the tiles to the front of the fireplace. Lo and behold, the tile started slipping down the face of the fireplace! I'm thinking it is because I mixed the thinset too runny and it was not stiff enough to hold the tile. Because it was a very small tile (3 x 6), I didn't think it needed support from the bottom. Is this an improper assumption?

Thanks for your help and I'll be posting pics soon...

P.S.- Tell JB that I would love a stack of TYW stickers.

[bbcamp]

Your tiles will need support until the thinset starts to cure.

[laniepoo7]

That makes sense completely. When I tried to lift the tile straight off of the face of the fireplace, it ws stuck on there really tightly. To get it off, I had to slide it down the wall. Something about opposable forces, I assume...

I'll figure out something tonight...

[bbcamp]

Tile spacers are sold everywhere tile is sold. You can also use toothpicks if the grout lines are really tight. The bottom row of tiles can be a problem, especially if the gap is not even or you are starting on the second row for some reason. You will just have to rig some temporary support from what ever you can find.

[laniepoo7]

I was afraid you would say that. The problem is not the sides of the fireplace, but the opening. I guess I'll make a rig tonight to hold at least the bottom row of tile above the fireplace opening while the thinset cures.

I start tiling today, so wish me luck!!

[bbcamp]

Good Luck! :wave:

[laniepoo7]

OK, I laid the first row of tiles last night and it was harder than it looks on TV! All of the different ways vertical tiles can be wrong is mind-boggling. You have to check for level, plumb, and what I called "checking the face" to make sure the tiles were the same depth (to prevent lippage). Man!

But even though the first 3 tiles took an hour to set, the rest went easier as I felt more comfortable. One word of advice I would give a newbie is to do a floor first. Vertical spaces have a BIG learning curve...Especially when the surface is so irregular as the face of this fireplace.

This first picture shows the fireplace after the first coat of thinset to even it out (The brick was really rough and you can see how deep the mortar joints are below the surface in the upper left-hand side of the picture).

http://www.computersolution4u.com/TYWImages/FireplaceA.JPG

The second picher shows how smooth I was able to get the face after the second screeting.

http://www.computersolution4u.com/TYWImages/FireplaceB.JPG

These next pichers show various angles of the first row. Those tiles on the bottom are just used to hold up the tiles as they cure. These pics were taken before I cleaned the thinset from the face of the fireplace. I used shims to achieve level where necessary. The cuts on the side of the fireplace are large, I know, for the bullnose to be inserted there.

http://www.computersolution4u.com/TYWImages/Fireplace1.JPG
http://www.computersolution4u.com/TYWImages/Fireplace2.JPG
http://www.computersolution4u.com/TYWImages/Fireplace3.JPG

I decided to use white thinset for the tile because I'm using a light grout to match the tile. And about grout lines, even though I liked the look of the 1/16" grout lines, they proved to be too difficult for a newbie like me to tacke for this project. So I used 1/8" (so I can still have unsanded grout), and it doesn't look so bad.

Thanks for all of your help. I couldn't have done it with you guys!

[laniepoo7]

I started the second course of tile last night and it didn't take nearly as long as the first course. I think I'm getting the hang of it... :dance:

http://www.computersolution4u.com/TYWImages/Fireplace4.JPG


http://www.computersolution4u.com/TYWImages/Fireplace5.JPG
Does everything look OK? Hopefully nothing will fall off of the wall anytime soon. BTW, that overhang of the bullnose tile into the fireplace is to allow for a new fireplace door frame to be flush with it. The fireplace will not be used until the new door is installed. A couple questions:

1. How long do I have from mixing the thinset to use it? I'm working in small batches because it takes me so long to set the tile, but I don't want to use dried-out thinset. The thinset got a little stiff while I was setting tile last night and I want to make sure that those tiles will not come off.

2. Which hearth pattern looks the best? Option A has the tile with an accent tile on the diagonal:

http://www.computersolution4u.com/TYWImages/FireplaceBase1.JPG

Option B has a continuation of the running bond pattern in the top:


http://www.computersolution4u.com/TYWImages/FireplaceBase2.JPG

I know question 2 is really a matter of aesthetics, but I want to get an outside opinion...

Thanks!

PLEASE NOTE: John, I didn't buy the bucket I'm using for the thinset...I found it in the yard. I think the painter left one :D

[bbcamp]

1) 30 to 45 minutes, depending on temperature and humidity.

2) I like the running bond on the hearth. The other options looks busy, and, unless you plan to have some of those smaller tiles on the wall, looks likle your "feature" is on the floor, kinda out of place.

[scott anthony]

I agree it looks like you used leftover pieces from another job. I know thats not the case just looks like it. Sometimes simple is better. But hey its your taste. And do not take offense but try to work cleaner, trust me others will say the same.

[laniepoo7]

And do not take offense but try to work cleaner, trust me others will say the same.

Hey Scott, what do you mean by "work cleaner"? Do you mean to not have as much thinset on the face of the tile? What are the steps to working cleaner? I'm unfamiliar with the term...No offense taken.

*sigh* And here I was thinking I was doing an OK job... :(

[scott anthony]

Ya just the thinset all over the tile makes it a tough job for the next day. And when someone see's this it looks like you struggled. Take a sponge and keep it at your side and wipe down as you go. And them there sticks gotta go if ya need to use them cut them down so we cant see them :) But looking at it now it might look a bit better than I thought when it's complete. It's just the tight area looks a bit odd up close. When you get up top I think it will look better.
Now as for the floor in my opinion I would stay with the same breed of tile instead of incorperating a different textured tile unless you decide to use a stone of some sort. It looks like your bond will stand the test. Eveyone is quite on this one, I hope your looking for the truth instead of a pat on the back. Others may love it. I might, I want to see it when it's done. Take your time winter is still a couple months out, well for me anyhow.

[laniepoo7]

Well, Scott,
I wasn't looking for a pat on the back, the truth will be just fine, thanks!

As for me looking like I had a hard time, that would DEFINITELY be the truth!

I just used those shims to keep the blocks on level, they were taken out after the thinset set up.

I have decided to use the same tile on the bottom. I agree with all of the posts here.

Last question (at least for awhile...):
How do I clean the front of the tile with a sponge without the tile moving? I have been waiting for the thinset to set up a bit more so I don't knock the tile out of level when I clean it. Thankfully, the ceramic tile has a very glossy glaze, so the thinset comes off pretty easily. But I'm all for learning ways to make this job eaiser! I'll be sure to clean up better before the next set of pictures ;)

[scott anthony]

Great, it seems your like your learning and there is no installer in this world who hasn't had to go through this. Just be pataint, and don't settle. As for the cleaning up as you go you just keep one of them big grout sponge in a bucket of half filler water and when you mess you wipe. Yes you will wiggle your tiles a bit but you can wiggle them back after there clean also. You may want to try use the blue tape to hold things in place, it works good but your tile must be dry so after a wipe you may have to dry. Buy the time your finished you'll have it all figured out.

[Julie]

Hi, Do we have any pics of this finished job? I just bought a house with the same kind of fireplace and am dying to do the same thing !

[laniepoo7]

Thanks for your interest, but I am actually almost done. I only have to place one more piece of bullnose tile (I ran out after mis-cutting one...or two :bang: ), and then grout. Don't worry, I won't leave y'all hanging.

I just got married on the 5th of November and was on my honeymoon until yesterday, so I haven't gotten back to it yet...I had some other things goin on... :o

[scott anthony]

Just got married, oh boy your honey DUES have just begun :yeah:
Hang in there.

[deangerhardt]

Any pics yet?

[laniepoo7]

I need to quit my full-time job, as it is severely cutting into my project-finishing time...

Last question because I'm looking to finish this project THIS WEEK (famous last words, I know): The wall is fine and I didn't have to cut the tile at all going up the face of the wall. My question is what to do about the hearth. I originally was planning to use the coordinating floor tiles on the hearth by cutting the 12 x 12 tiles into 8 x 12 and using the full 12 X 12 tile in the front as seen below:

http://www.computersolution4u.com/TYWImages/PlannedHearth.JPG

Unfortunately, the 12 X 12 tiles are REALLY 11.75" X 11.75" but the 8" X 12" tiles are really 12" wide. This discrepancy does not allow for the planned hearth to work. So I have 2 options from this point. Since the hearth (by code) is 18.5" from back to front, I can either place the 3" cut tile in the back and continue the running bond pattern as see below:

http://www.computersolution4u.com/TYWImages/HearthOption1.JPG

Or, I can cut the front and back tiles with a full tile in the middle:

http://www.computersolution4u.com/TYWImages/HearthOption2.JPG

Please let me know what you pros would do (short of taking the tiles off the wall and starting over :cry: )

[laniepoo7]

In countertops and backsplashes, I usually see the cut tiles towards the back of the countertop, but wanted to know if this would look better than evening out the back and front tiles. Any suggestions are more than welcome!

*bribe* If I get an answer to this question, I can post a picture of the result tomorrow or Friday.... :D

[rspainhower]

I prefer cuts toward the back of my hearths just like a counter top. Just my opinion though.

[laniepoo7]

...But I have a running bond pattern. Should I continue the pattern on the cut tiles:
http://www.computersolution4u.com/TYWImages/HearthOption1.JPG

or place them with the grout lines matching the tiles on the wall:

http://www.computersolution4u.com/TYWImages/HearthOption3.JPG

I think I am leaning towards the latter so the pattern does not draw attention to the small cut in the back...

[rspainhower]

I would say the later too. Are they the same tile or is the hearth a different color as the diagram portrays it?

[laniepoo7]

...Since my Adobe and Macromedia stuff is at home, I drew the pictures on MS Paint and the gridlines were difficult to get right with the perspective. The tile is the same tile I used on the wall, I just colored them differently to make the distinction. So the latter it is! Now since I put out that bribe, I know what I'll be doing this evening!

Thanks!

[laniepoo7]

I've miss you guys! I'm finally done with the fireplace and just grouted it yesterday. The grout is a <I> little bit </I>splotchy, but that is to be expected since it hasn't completely dried out yet. That mantel on top of the fireplace is my next project, and I'm hoping to have everything done by Christmas...

All that is left is to put the moulding around the base of the fireplace. Since I didn't bust out the original hearth, I'm gonna have to replace all of the moulding since the height is now raised. Let me know what y'all think!

http://www.computersolution4u.com/TYWImages/CompletedFireplace1.jpg
http://www.computersolution4u.com/TYWImages/CompletedFireplace2.jpg
http://www.computersolution4u.com/TYWImages/CompletedFireplace3.jpg
http://www.computersolution4u.com/TYWImages/CompletedFireplace4.jpg
http://www.computersolution4u.com/TYWImages/CompletedFireplace5.jpg