View Full Version : Sealer challenge
timcoogan
07-20-2005, 12:01 AM
I have been asked to renovate a 30-year old ornamental pool lined with glazed ceramic tile, set into a concrete deck. It has been weeping for years, releasing sufficient water to dampen the surface of the adjacent area. The tiles are almost all sound & still set, the grout doesn't look as badly deteriorated as I would expect from the amount of leakage, so I suspect that it was originally a homeowner job & that it has no liner.
I would really like to avoid having to deconstruct the area - I don't have much time free to spend on this job, & the owner isn't wealthy. Does anyone know of a reliable sealer which could be painted on to the surface to waterproof it? It doesn't have to be 100% sound, but it does have to be able to stand up to freeze-thaw & reduce seepage to an acceptable level for a concrete deck about 12 feet from the dwelling wall.
Thanks,
Tim
Davestone
07-20-2005, 04:15 AM
Is there any way to adjust the water level down to see at what level it is leaking, and then scratching the grout out a little from there up,and regrouting before sealing?Hopefully it's not leaking from the bottom.You see, sealers won't really stop the leaking,but i guess it might slow it down,i guess,especially if you painted on a topical sealer.Maybe you could cover the joints...after you repair any that need it...with clear aquarium silicone...it probably won't be seen and it will probably work better. :)
doitright
07-20-2005, 05:01 AM
Hi Tim, Welcome! :)
I don't understand what you're trying to seal. If it's the grout, sealers aren't meant to be waterproofers. If it's the concrete deck, the water from behind is just going to mess up the surface.
Try to trace the leak. This sounds serious, and requires more than a bandaid. Call a few pool companies, and get their opinions, and post back.
claycarson
07-20-2005, 08:25 PM
Sealer most definitely is not the answer. It is not like the finger you stick in the dyke to stop the leak.
You have an actual leakage issue. Fix that, by following the advice above.
The sealers I know of could be useful only if you can pinpoint a specific hole or crack. Even then, you are better off fixing the crack or hole with more permanent products.
Caulk, grout, tile and liners are all more waterproof than sealers.
timcoogan
07-22-2005, 03:32 AM
I have emptied the pool & cleaned it: its hard to be sure in retrospect without invasive demolition, but I don't think there is "a" specific leak. I think the original builder built a pool & surfaced it with tile but without installing a liner, & hence there is a ongoing seepage through all the grout lines.
The pool is set into a concrete deck, about 12' from the dwelling. The volume is about 60% below the level of the deck (& also the floor of the house), & about 40% above, in a walled enclosure. Grade drops away sharply on the side away from the house, so drainage is away from the house. Aesthetically, the problem is that the 40% above deck level means that the deck surface is always damp, structurally, the problem is that the amount of seepage may undermine that part of the deck.
Basically, my question is: "Is there a 'good enough' grout sealer to reduce seepage to an acceptable level under these circumstances, or is the only answer to tear out the surface & rebuild properly?"
"Acceptable level" meaning a volume of seepage which doesn't undermine the surrounding area. I'm not trying to seal the deck surface to hide the problem, I'm wondering if there is a way of sealing the grout lines of the tiled surface sufficiently well to reduce seepage to a level at which it isn't harmful.
Tx,
Tim
Davestone
07-22-2005, 05:03 AM
Sealer really won't stop the leak,silicone might.Here's the skinny on pools.If it's a shot pool..like gunite,gunite itself isn't waterproof, and the pool must be covered inside by a waterproofing mud, before tiling.If it's a shotcrete pool, shotcrete is supposed to be waterproof, in itself.What this means, is pools usually don't leak just from cracked grout, on a shotcrete pool, but may on a gunite pool,which would lead to a total demo of the inside.The way to test for leaking is mark the water level, and watch it leak till it stops,then look at that area for cracks, or pinholes in grout, then use food coloring dripped at the edge of the pool,but not touching the sides, then see if the color runs to the suspected holes.Then maybe you can isolate, and fix just that area.Now, there's always a long shot of closing off the plumbing,gluing on a pressure guage,and installing a spigot to fill the pipes with water from a hose, and seeing if the pressure drops. :)
claycarson
07-22-2005, 07:22 PM
If it worked to apply sealer, and that's a big IF, how long would it work? One season? 2 months? There's no way to know.
It is like using a rubber band to hold a car motor together. Every time the car starts, you're on borrowed time.
Sealer is microscopic in scale, not able to plug major leaks. I do believe you are expecting too much of the product. The alternatives are much more money, but I do think they are more likely to work.
doitright
07-23-2005, 06:30 AM
Basically, my question is: "Is there a 'good enough' grout sealer to reduce seepage to an acceptable level under these circumstances, or is the only answer to tear out the surface & rebuild properly?"
NO!
Locate the leak and do the proper repairs necessary, or just leave it alone for someone else to mess with, and accept responsibility for. :nod:
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