Surface dust and sealing

[Dan White]

Hi. I am going to lay down "raja" multicolor slate using Bulletproof sealer first. I don't like the wet look and there is plenty of color as is. I tested a few tiles with the sealer and I noted that after the sealer is dry, the surface is a little streaky looking, as if the dust on the surface got pushed around while applying the sealer. I assume I need to wipe down the tiles with a damp cloth to remove the surface dust before sealing. Is this the right thing to do? Just wipe them down, wait a few minutes to dry, and then go with the sealer? BTW Stonetech said I need to wait 24 hours after applying Bulletproof, and that it did the same thing as the grout release, but that you only had to wait 4 hours for the grout release.

thanks,
dwhite

[Sponsored Links]

[B. Yager]

Sounds like you have excess sealer left on the surface, it will dry and look like dust, try rubbing the surface with a rag dampened with some sealer to remove it. BTW Bulletproof doesn't go on real good with a rag leaves smears, need to use roller or sprayer

[Dan White]

Sounds like you have excess sealer left on the surface, it will dry and look like dust, try rubbing the surface with a rag dampened with some sealer to remove it. BTW Bulletproof doesn't go on real good with a rag leaves smears, need to use roller or sprayer


Yes, I noticed the smears while testing. I'm trying a foam brush about 4" wide. I think it works OK. I do have a haze on the tiles now. Hopefully I can rub that off without removing the color along with it!

dwhite

[doitright]

Hi Dan :)

This is just some of the problems when working with slate.

As with any material, the surface must be totally clean & dry before application of impregnator, enhancer, sealer, etc.

I suggest you do a thorough cleaning of the slate if you are going to preseal. If the water is cloudy when wringing out the sponge, it needs more cleaning. We usually install the slate, and do a thorough cleaning after grouting.

As far as sealer application methods, we typically use brushes. Sometimes rollers will leave air bubbles, and sprayers can leave an uneven appearance depending on the porosity of the surface.

Some things as easy as applying sealer, if done improperly, can leave disasterous results.

Please continue to TEST, before commiting to the entire project.

[Dan White]

Hi Dan :)


Some things as easy as applying sealer, if done improperly, can leave disasterous results.

Please continue to TEST, before commiting to the entire project.

Good advice. Thanks. Early on with some other slate I noticed that if I scrubbed the slate hard, I could remove practically all of the nice color on the surface! I thought that maybe it wasn't best to do this, and that the sealer might be used to keep the color in. Guess not. I don't quite understand how the color is on the surface of the slate coming from the quarry, but then it is possible to rub it off. Is this what you normally see with slate?

dwhite

[doitright]

Hi Dan :)

Some slates are very soft and more like mud. Vermont slates are the only ones I'm aware of that are more stable and durable (including being safe for roofs and showers).

As far as cleaning and color, they all vary. This is why I strongly suggest to TEST first. I do it with every slate job, whether I think I'm familiar with it or not. I usually test a sample before purchase. If the client has already purchased the stone, I will make my appropriate recommendations. If the stone is already installed, I'll again test, and inform the client of what I can or can't do.

This is typically not a DIY project, but a talented person with enough information can accomplish anything! ;)

[Dan White]

Hi Dan :)

Some slates are very soft and more like mud. Vermont slates are the only ones I'm aware of that are more stable and durable (including being safe for roofs and showers).

As far as cleaning and color, they all vary. This is why I strongly suggest to TEST first. I do it with every slate job, whether I think I'm familiar with it or not. I usually test a sample before purchase. If the client has already purchased the stone, I will make my appropriate recommendations. If the stone is already installed, I'll again test, and inform the client of what I can or can't do.

This is typically not a DIY project, but a talented person with enough information can accomplish anything! ;)

Well we're about to find out how talented I am. :rolleyes:

We did a quick wipe down of the tiles, then applied Bulletproof sealer (1 coat). It came out OK as there are no streaks, but they are a tad milky looking. I figure after we set and grout we'll give it a good scrubbing before the final seal coat. Hopefully we won't lose too much of the color in the slate. It is such a shame that the best parts might likely be lost.

This pic below is, I believe, after the first coat of sealer where they look a tad milky. I suppose the tiles should be scrubbed well because over time any loose color will be lost eventually in day to day use anyway. Guess I'll just cross my fingers.

dwhite

[doitright]

Hi Dan :)

There are other products on the market, that may give you more desireable results. Get the floor installed and grouted. Use a grout bag vs. smearing grout over the entire face of the tile (you won't regret it).

[Dan White]

Hi Dan :)

There are other products on the market, that may give you more desireable results. Get the floor installed and grouted. Use a grout bag vs. smearing grout over the entire face of the tile (you won't regret it).

OK. We do like the natural look vs enhanced, but we'll see after scrubbing. I'm definitely going to try and get a grout bag.

thanks a lot,
dwhite

[Dan White]

Hi Dan :)

There are other products on the market, that may give you more desireable results. Get the floor installed and grouted. Use a grout bag vs. smearing grout over the entire face of the tile (you won't regret it).

OK so I've got about 250 sf of the floor down and I think I'm going to grout this section when it is done (400 sf) before continuing on to the other part of the floor. I have furniture that needs to go in so I want to get the grout down ASAP.

Home Depot has a grout bag. I haven't used these before and was wondering whether it is pretty much one size fits all. I have 3/16" grout spacing, and the bag looks a bit bigger than that. I did some searching but didn't see anything about the best way to use the bag. Should the grout be wet enough to find its own way into the nooks and crannies between the slate, or do I need to force it down some with a tool?

Any tips on how to apply? I was thinking long lines (maybe 10') in one direction and then doing the perpendicular lines next, and then pushing it in somehow. Any clues are appreciated? :)

dwhite

[doitright]

Hi Dan :)

Don't you know NASCAR is running right now? :shades: :D

Keep your areas workable (3x3 or 4x4), and apply the same fashion you would to allow the grout to set up for wash down. Mix the grout to consistency to allow using the bag. Remove the metal tip (if it has one). Cut the opening larger if needed. I like to follow up areas with a grout float (concentrating on only the joints, not the entire face of the tile). Feel free to use a margin trowel, pointer, plastic spatula, or any device to scrape and remove excess grout as you go.

Don't allow the grout to dry too long on the surface. If you notice it is drying on the surface, stop spreading, and start your wipe down. It's easy to get more grout, but difficult if not impossible to remove if allowed to harden on the surface. Fortunetly, the use of a grout bag will greatly reduce this risk.

[Dan White]

Hi Dan :)

Don't you know NASCAR is running right now? :shades: :D

Keep your areas workable (3x3 or 4x4), and apply the same fashion you would to allow the grout to set up for wash down. Mix the grout to consistency to allow using the bag. Remove the metal tip (if it has one). Cut the opening larger if needed. I like to follow up areas with a grout float (concentrating on only the joints, not the entire face of the tile). Feel free to use a margin trowel, pointer, plastic spatula, or any device to scrape and remove excess grout as you go.

Don't allow the grout to dry too long on the surface. If you notice it is drying on the surface, stop spreading, and start your wipe down. It's easy to get more grout, but difficult if not impossible to remove if allowed to harden on the surface. Fortunetly, the use of a grout bag will greatly reduce this risk.

NASCAR? That's cars going around in a circle, right? :twitch: kidding.

Thanks for the tips. Sounds like I need to use the grout sponge to make sure the grout gets all the way in, and then I remove excess from the top, and finally use the sponge to get the rest off the surface after it starts to set up.

thanks,
dwhite