So far so Good ? + a Few More Questions [Archive] - Ceramic Tile Advice Forums - John Bridge Ceramic Tile

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johnnymac
07-18-2001, 02:59 PM
After reading almost every post to gather info, let me run all this by everyone for comments/corrections/suggestions. I'm going to tile the tub/shower enclosure with 4" plain old white ceramic tiles, probably from the Depot(relatively booring compared to other projects I've read about like Daisey's). I set the tub and shim out the studs so that the CBU (took me a couple of days scanning the posts to figure out what the heck CBU was)can over lap the tub flange. Over the studs I hang 30lb roofing felt (Depot didn't have 15lb), extending it over the tub flange. I hang the CBU using the coated screws, tape the horizontal and corner joints using fiberglass mesh and latex modified thinset, overlapping the flange but sitting it about 1/4" above the deck so it doesn't wick water. OK so far? Here go the questions; I'm tiling into the window on the back wall so I'll line it with CBU. Do I tape/thinset those outside corner joints? I'm tiling all the way up to the ceiling. Do I use thinset on the CBU side and regular joint compound on the ceiling? What about the seams where the CBU ends and the drywall begins? I'm actually planning on using green board there. It don't cost that much more and with the kids splashing around in there I figure it can't hurt. Thanks.

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chip
07-18-2001, 04:06 PM
If you are going to tile all the way to the ceiling, why not use the best product known to man to set your tile.

Cement!!!!!!

Why jeopardize the integrety of the installation by using 2 different materials for your tile to adhere to?

As for the window, tape and mud as with any other joints. At the drywall/CBU intersect, either will be sufficient with tape.

Art

John Bridge
07-18-2001, 04:47 PM
I'm not sure Art understood your question about the ceiling. Actually, you don't have to do anything there. No tape. Just run your tiles up to the ceiling and use caulking in the joint between the tile and ceiling.

Where the cbu changes to drywall, I know guys who use thinset on the inside and joint compound on the outside. But if you use thin set over the whole thing, you can later skim over the exposed part with drywall compound before you paint.

On the window sill, overlap the horizontal piece over the vertical wall piece so that the joint is on the vertical side of the juncture. Pack thinset into the joints and then tape over with fiberglass. Use silicone where the cbu abuts the window sash/metal/whatever. Make sure you get all the wood covered with tar paper or poly.

johnnymac
07-19-2001, 08:54 AM
OK, I got it - don't worry about taping the CBU to ceiling seam. The seam where the CBU meets the drywall; I'll use thinset for the whole thing. Should the CBU extend past the last tile or can I bury the seem behind the last tile? Will that cause a problem with the tile being half on CBU, half on drywall/greenboard? As far as the window, I'm going to install one of those marble threshold things that seem to be in almost every house down here in Fl, pitching it slightly towards the tub. Do I use thinset to install that also? Thanks for all of the responses. I have a pretty good idea of what I'm doing now thanks to this forum, it's just these little details....

John Bridge
07-19-2001, 04:20 PM
It won't hurt the tile to bridge between backer board and sheetrock. And you can tape and finish the backer if it extends beyond the tile.

The marble sill can be installed with thin set also. Just make sure you keep everything caulked up tight around the sill area.

Bri considers window sills such a potential for trouble that he advocates outlawing windows in showers. I like my window, though.