View Full Version : Hot mopped corners "cut"
01-29-2005, 04:35 PM
not broken, but looks like they cheated the corner a little... there is a diagonal between the walls that sticks out about 1/2" from the corner on both sides.
Can I just cut the hardibacker a 1/2 short on either side, stuff some thinset behind, and tape the corner square? Or would I be better off shimming the whole wall out 1/2"? (really hoping the former is the better option!)
Also, should the gaps between CBU be filled with thinset and taped, or taped over (leaving a gap)? I usually set drywall tape completely in compound, but I can work around the gap if that is important.
01-29-2005, 05:29 PM
There are a few areas along the walls that protrude out 1/2" as well. The protrusions are near the bottom of the pan, maybe 1-2" from the bottom of the pan.
Can I mount the CBU a little higher - say 3-4 inches above the pan floor, then float thinset to fill that void? Will Thinset stick to the hot mop walls?
01-29-2005, 05:31 PM
Hi Michael, :)
I'm not clear on what's happening in the corners. Speak a little more on that subject, will ya? :)
Most of the backer board guys apply the tape as they get to the joint with the tile installation, filling the joint as they go. That way there is no hump to go over.
01-29-2005, 05:38 PM
Yea - read the posts about taping/tiling at the same time... makes sense - will do.
The walls of the pan, about 1-2" from the bottom protrude out about 1/2" past what were originally plumb studs. So if I want the CBU to start at 1/4" from the pan floor, then I will need to shim out the studs by about 1/2".
If I can start the CBU at 3-4" from the floor (the hot mop is up to 10" high, and the damn is 4.5"+) then I will only need to shim out about 1/8". In this case, there would be a void on the wall 3-4" from the bottom of the CBU to the floor.
Does that make more sense or less?
It's the same issue with the corners...
01-29-2005, 05:43 PM
Yeah, now I get it. :)
You can actually start the CBU higher than that. Say your shower floor is going to be an inch and a half thick. you could start your CBU about an inch and a quarter up. The floor would still catch the bottom of it and keep it from flopping around. You might not have to fur out the studs at all -- Maybe. :)
01-29-2005, 05:45 PM
Awesome - that will help tremendously! :yipee:
vBulletin® v3.7.4, Copyright ©2000-2014, Jelsoft Enterprises Ltd.