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bd323
01-07-2005, 06:55 AM
I'm in the planning stage to redo my main bath. The room is about 5'x9' with the tub in an alcove and a 2'6" x 4' closet. I would like to put tile on the floor and ran the deflector for the 2x8 11' span I have and its ok. What I would like to know is what mix of material are you using to create a mud bed? Should I imbed and chicken wire and what is the min thickness. I was thinking 3/4" but 1" would be ok.

Brian

BTW subfloor on floor joist is 1/2 ply :crazy:

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bbcamp
01-07-2005, 07:20 AM
Brian, the shower construction thread in our "Liberry" has the recipe for deck mud. While you are there read through the links on the shower floors. The preslope part of a shower floor is the same thing as what you want, except yours won't slope and won't have a hole in the middle.

Per the TCA, 3/4" is the minimum thickness, but most of the pros like to see more. If you have the room, go ahead and make it thicker.

The bad news (I saved it for last) is that the subfloor needs to be at least 5/8" thick. Maybe one of the mud guys will comment, but I think you'll need to add more plywood, or replace what's there now.

Unregistered
01-07-2005, 11:33 AM
Bath will have air jetted tub and shower. Tile in the walking area of the bath, about 5x9.


Brian

bbcamp
01-07-2005, 02:46 PM
That doesn't change anything. Unless the pros think you can place a mud bed over 1/2" plywood, you'll need to add to or replace what you have now.

You may have mis-understood me (happens all the time. I'm soooo mis-understood :D). The liberry has some information on mud beds. It's in a shower construction thread. So I'll summmarize:

The mud bed will have to be between 3/4" and 1-1/4" thick. You start off with a slip sheet (cleavage plane) of 15 lb. roofing felt, over which you staple 2.5 lb/yard diamond lath to the subfloor. You then set the mud on that. The mud mix is 5 parts sharp sand to 1 part portland cement. You can make it with less sand if you want, but don't make it with more. Some remodelers use 1" conduit for screeds so the mud will be level (or at least uniform thickness). Real mud men build mud screeds, or a couple of ridges of mud along the walls that they carefully level. They then fill the area between the mud screeds and level with a long straight edge.

Key points: get some help, have enough mud on hand to complete the job, and work with deliberate haste. You do not want to let the mud start setting before you finish, or you will get a cold joint in your mud. it won't be the end of the world, but something you can avoid.

Rd Tile
01-07-2005, 02:55 PM
Are you sure it's not a 5/8" subfloor, either way a 1 1/4" mud bed should be fine.:) I mix it 4 to 1, but 5 will work.:):)

bd323
01-07-2005, 04:15 PM
Thanks gus it sound like I off to a good start. It might be 5/8 I'll take a better look. You mention sharp sand what is this?

Brian

Sonnie Layne
01-07-2005, 04:31 PM
your supplier will know. It's basically what it says it is. Got more surface area because of it's shape(s).

If the built up height of the total project gets in your way, you can "let in" your decking between the joists. Don't know what the term is for that method (I'm just a poet after all ;)), but I've done it a lot.

bd323
01-07-2005, 05:15 PM
Sonnie,

Never heard the term used before, what do you mean by let in?

jadnashua
01-07-2005, 05:24 PM
Instead of putting the first layer of subflooring on TOP of the joists, you put some ledger boards down on the sides of the joist, and drop (let) in pieces so that the top of the subfloor is now even with the top of the joist. This allows you to get a thicker subfloor in without adding to the top of the joist. Depending on what you are doing, that may be all you need, or you may have to then put a second layer on in the normal fashion.

bd323
01-08-2005, 09:30 PM
Thanks Jim!