View Full Version : Ceramic tile to carpet -- and thresholds...
Matt from GR
04-04-2002, 07:26 PM
I am in the middle of laying ceramic tile down in my kitchen, bathroom, and adjoining hallways and would like some feedback on how to do the threshold to the carpet.
I have already put down 1/2" durock on top of the subfloor (20 3x5' sheets) and am halfway thru the tiling (looks great, BTW). Anyhow, how would you run it up to the carpet? The carpet lies on the subfloor, so the area that I am working on has been raised 1/2" by the durock + 3/8" by the tile -- basically we're talking about an inch. Now, I already screwed up by not leaving space for a threshold (probably wood) and took the durock all the way to the carpet. Is it possible (or advisable) to bulk the the carpet near the tile with extra padding and tack that down? With 2 layers of pad, the carpet comes very close to the height of the tile. Or should I remove the tile that there (we're talking 4 tiles) and install a threshold? If I install a threshold, should it go on top of the durrock, or will I need to take that back as well? I don't mind popping the 4 tiles off if I have to, but I'm not excited about cutting the durock back then trying to scrape the thinset off of the subfloor.
This is what I get for not doing my hopework beforehand.... :( Please advise.
04-04-2002, 07:44 PM
Here is an idea to think about. Maybe someone will have a better idea, though.
Set the tile up to the edge where the durock is installed, and use a Schluter Schiene to protect the edge of the tile. Set the Schiene/piece of tile with a slight (1/4" or so) overhang over the edge of the durock. Tuck the cut edge of the carpet under the overhanging Schiene/tile.
Check out Schluter's site if you are not familiar with this stuff. http://www.schluter.com
We used a threshold from Bruce Hardwood, it is wood and curved down on both sides, on the back side is a cleat running down the center which fits into a plastic channel that is screwed into the floor. The channel is about half an inch wide, you could probably fit it between your carpet and durock. The transition we used was equal height on both sides, but they do have a carpet-to-tile transition that is lower on one side than the other if that's what you need.
04-04-2002, 09:21 PM
The Schluter metal edging is the best idea to cover the raw tile edge then you can "ramp" your carpet a little with cedar shingles from the lumber yard.
Matt from GR
04-05-2002, 08:29 AM
If I go with a Schluter product (I am aware of them and will use them where my tile ends before going down stairs.) then I will need to pop up the 4 tiles, correct?
I have read some things about a "Z-bar" which can be used to tack down carpet, but I cannot find any detailed info about it. I know that Futura has one, but they have little more than a picture on their website.
Does anyone have any experience with one of these, or am I barking up the wrong tree.
- I'd rather not go with an actual wood threshold at this point because it would require removing some of the durock (probably about 4 inches worth, in my estimation).
- The Schulter solution is a good one but it seems to me that to do it right, I would need one of their larger (read, taller) ones (my HD only carries smaller ones).
Thanks for the tips!
Zbar is a metal strip that is shaped like a Z when viewed in profile. The bottom of the Z is tacked to the floor and the carpet goes around into the other part of the Z, where there are little teeth to grip on the inside. Then you bang the top of the Z down on the carpet, the teeth sink into the carpet under that and the whole thing stays put out of fear for its life. You do get a clean carpeted edge instead of an exposed metal strip. They range from about 1 1/2 inches wide to 3 inches depending on the type you purchase. They are in the carpeting section of a home improvment store and come in 2,3 and 8 foot strips.
04-05-2002, 09:01 AM
"Z" bar in the carpet business is also a piece of aluminum that is installed under a piece of tack strip. The carpet is hooked on the tacks in the normal manner, rolled under the metal, and the metal is bent down with a mallet. There are no hooks on the metal itself.
I usually just go with a tack strip. I nail it about a quarter-inch away from the tile edge, cut the carpet about a quarter-inch beyond the edge, hook the carpet and force the excess down between the tile and the strip. Looks like a Z bar job, nice and clean.
The one drawback to the above is that when cleaning the tiles, you often smear the carpet edge, which will in time start looking pretty scummy. You either need to use a shield against the carpet side or go to something like the Schluter trim.
04-05-2002, 02:12 PM
All you need is the "small one". The carpet and carpet pad stands tall enough to hide the cement board.
We're not over thinking this are we?
04-05-2002, 05:37 PM
I never cease to be amazed at the broad amounts of knowledge on this site.
I've been wondering what SHOULD have been done at the joints between tile and carpet in our house. This looks like a nice option.
You all are the best!
04-05-2002, 07:47 PM
Flattery will get you upgraded out of Junior Member status ahead of time. Keep it up! ;)
Carpets Done Wright
04-06-2002, 10:45 PM
run the durarock out into the carpeted room, about 3" use Ardex Feather Finish, and float the edge of the durarock out about 2' in all directions as a ramp. A yardstick works good as a screed! Now you have the thickness of the tile to deal with instead of the tile and durarock.
Z-bar will work but is not recommended by the Carpet and Rug Institute, because of the need for tackstrip when used. A metal crimp metal or any type of threshold that will cover the tackstrip holding a stretch on the carpet will work. Remember the carpet needs to maintain a stretch or it will wrinkle fast.
If you want the carpet and tile to meet without a transistion, then Z-bar will work. Also you can use tackstrip, leaving a 3/8" gully between the tackstrip and ceramic tile. Fill the gully with acrylic latex seam sealer, stretch, trim and tuck into the gully with a heavy bead of acrylic seam sealer.
Carpets Done Wright
Certified Floorcovering Artist
Austin, Texas (http://bal.ifloor.com/cgi-bin/bal.pl?program_id=50)
04-06-2002, 11:07 PM
Damn Perry, NICE WEBSITE. You've been busy man!
04-07-2002, 08:07 AM
I didn't see a links page on your site, and we need to exchange links.
I wonder if you could clear up one point. You menting that z-bar is not recommended by the rug institute, but then you say it will work. Why is is not recommended or approved?
vBulletin® v3.7.4, Copyright ©2000-2016, Jelsoft Enterprises Ltd.