subfloor strength [Archive] - Ceramic Tile Advice Forums - John Bridge Ceramic Tile


View Full Version : subfloor strength

08-04-2004, 02:49 PM
I know, I know, you guys get this all the time:)

I want to ask the question in a different way tho if that's allright...

I own a home built in 1950 on pier and beam, bungalow style. I recently had the house leveled with new beams added. The joists are 2x8, 16" on center. On top of that is T&G 1x6 laid on a diagonal. On one half of the house (bedrooms) is 3/4" oak hardwoods, the other half has 3/4" plywood. I have pulled up the carpet that was over the plywood (living, dining) and need to put something down.

What are my tile options with this configuration? I do not want to lay down cement board if at all possible, are there any tile products that would also fit the style of the house? If not I will go with wood, though I don't want to try to match the old wood let alone the height difference.

Above all I don't want to consider pulling up the plywood.

Sponsored Links

08-04-2004, 11:03 PM
Hi tonrow. Welcome - got a first name we could call your round here?

In order to discuss tile options, we need to know what the longest unsupported span of your 2X8 joists are.

John Bridge
08-05-2004, 06:10 PM
Hi and welcome. :)

You won't here many arguments concerning the plywood covered areas, but I don't think you'll get anyone to go along with oak strip floors.

08-05-2004, 08:46 PM
Hi again and thanks!

The name's Tony. I remember the leveler saying they put in 275 feet of beams, and that's what it said on the invoice. I peeked under the house (whice is 30' wide give or take an inch or so), and there is a center beam running the length, two more half way across, and again at the edge. So, by my calculations that's about 7.5 feet.

I'm sure you can picture the house already. load bearing wall goes directly down the middle of the house, with the living, dining, then kitchen in a row on one side, and the bedrooms, hallway and bathroom on the other.

The interior width of the rooms is approx 14.5'.

08-05-2004, 08:49 PM
Forgot to mention. I can't tell for sure, but I think the plywood and hardwood might actually be 5/8", not 3/4".

08-05-2004, 09:42 PM
OK Tony, lets do a quick recap. :)

You got 2X8" joists, 16" OC, span of 7 1/2', right? That's real good. Now you got 1X6" T&G subfloor throughout the entire house, right? In all rooms but the bedrooms, this sub-floor is also topped with a layer of 5/8" or 3/4" plywood. That's good too. In the bedrooms however, no ply, nail-down hardward flooring instead, right?

Assuming greenlights all the way through this recap, which rooms do you actually want to tile? a.) All; b.) all but the bedrooms leaving the nail-down HW flooring intact; or c.) _______________?

08-06-2004, 10:14 AM
That about covers it Mike.

Hardwoods stay, I am only covering where the plywood is. I already know I will have an issue with the threshold between the two, which is why I don't want to add to the height with additional subflooring.

Conversly, I don't want to rip up the plywood. I already ripped up 4 layers of vinyl tile and 1 layer of 1/4" plywood in the kitchen to make the subfloor level with the dining room, and I still wake up shaking in the middle of the night over that plywood episode (think mix of clinch nails and stripped screws, took a sledge and tree splitter wedge to muscle it up).

Whatever product I choose will go throughout living, dining and kitchen.

08-10-2004, 12:13 PM
Hi guys, wanted to bump this back up to see if anyone had any further suggestions.


08-10-2004, 01:48 PM
If you have 5/8" plywood on top of plank subflooring, then use Ditra to minimize any further height buildup. Ditra adds about an 1/8" to the thickness of your tiles.