Brick Paver Kitchen/breakfast room floor

[pcambron]

We have stripped the finish from this floor that we do not like. It has no interesting pattern, border, etc. Instead of sealing again, could we paint it with some kind of 'wash' so that it wouldn't look freshly painted, but worn or really old? Any suggetions at all would be appreciated.:bow:

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[John Bridge]

Hi,

If it's a raw clay tile like Saltillo or another terracotta you can do it. If it's a glazed tile I would say no. The paint won't stick. :)

[doitright]

Hi PC :)

Can we get a 1st name please? I checked your history, and it appears these are brick pavers. Can you try to post us a picture?

Something that may work, would be an application of brown "Trewax", and then buff. I've used this procedure for "Mexican Clay Tile" and Quarry Tile. It will give you a "Antique" look. ;)

[pcambron]

Hi, I'm Pat. Yes, these are brick pavers, I believe. We didn't install. I'm afraid I don't know how to post a pic, unless it's the same as attaching a pic to an email???:confused:

The Trewax sounds like it might be what I'm looking for. These are 'Old Chicago Style' brick with gray grout/mortar. Do you think it would work on these?

[doitright]

Hi Pat,

Without seeing them, it's hard to say. But as John points out, as long as they're not glazed, I'm sure you'll be fine! ;)

[pcambron]

Thank you. I did take a couple of pics, but don't know how to post on here, so sent them as an attach to John. Maybe that will help.

[John Bridge]

Hi Pat,

If I got your email I deleted it mistakenly. Sorry, but I get so much garbage. You need to let me know it's coming and then label it "tile pictures" or something like that so I can separate it from the viagra ads. :)

To attach the files yourself, reduce them to less than 51 KB and make them jpeg format. Hit the "browse" button at the bottom of the text form and find the picture on your drive. Double click it and hit the post botton. Do NOT try to preview the post. We've never figured out why, but previewing deletes the picture. :)

If you can't figure any of that out, send the pics again. john@johnbridge.com

If you do the wax as John suggests, it'll prevent anything else like paint from sticking. You need to be sure of what it's going to look like before you committ to any finish. A combination of paint wash and then the wax might give you something beautiful. Might give you something ugly, too. :D

P.S. If you email the pictures, make sure you mention this thread in the email.

[John Bridge]

Here are Pat's pictures.

[John Bridge]

Number Two

[John Bridge]

First off, I lke the bricks the way they are. :)

I think you would just brush them with a watered down paint, keeping away from the grout joints. I wouldn't, though. It would be very hard to undo. :)

[doitright]

Thanks for posting the photo's John. :)

This type of floor has all kinds of options! ;)

[John Bridge]

Okay, are you going to tell us what the options are, John? :D

[pcambron]

John, thanks for posting the pics.

Options are good ... All help greatly appreciated.

[doitright]

I thought you'd never ask? :D ;)

Pat,

If I recall in your previous thread, you were looking for a antiqued old world look, correct? If that's the case, there are a couple of options. Since you just stripped these floors, you may want to darken them first with a stone enhancer. Then you may want to go over them with the Brown Trewax & buff. Another option is the linseed oil and paint thinner (50/50). It would need 2-3 applications, then top coat with the Brown Trewax, and buff.

A couple of things to consider, is the desired end look, and the other is how much maintenance are you willing to keep up with the floor. The methods above would require occassional rewaxing and buffing.

A more natural look can be achieved by just sealing the bricks as is. The surface would remain a bit more abrasive, but would only need to be maintained with a nuetral cleaner. Most nuetral cleaners for tile and stone have wax stripping abilities, therefore wouldn't be used in the first scenario with the Trewax.

If neither of these options are appealing, then Tim can chime in here with a suggestion of the application of one of the grout stains availabe. If that option is exercised, then reversal is about impossible. The waxes can always be stripped again.

What was the question? :D ;)

[pcambron]

Hi, John. Thanks for the post. More than an 'old world, antique' look, I want a 'used' look while at the same time, a lighter, brighter look. So maybe the Trewax isn't the thing, after all?

I would also like to hear about the grout option you mention. Would this be put on the brick also? And John Bridge suggested that I might not want to use a paint wash, but I don't know another way to essentially change the overall impression to a 'lighter' look??? I do hesitate to do something that someone else might want to change at a later date, but I really don't like it the way it is.

Thanks again for your time and advice, Pat

[doitright]

Hi Pat,

You won't want to enhance or use the Brown Trewax. A light color stain wash might be nice though. Where's Tim when you need him?

Hey John B, you've got connections! :)

[pcambron]

How do I get Tim's attention? I have a bit more sanding to do, but am getting close to the point of having to decide.

[kemguru]

Hi Pat :)

Whitewash

Your brick already has that “used” look. A light whitewash is all you need to lighten it a bit. It will give it an “old-world” look. I think your floor is begging for a good whitewash! :D

I’ve done white, brown, purple, blue and many other color washes on brick, Saltillo, concrete and etc. :)

If this sounds interesting, just say the word, I will explain the process. ;)

[pcambron]

Is Tim around? I would like an opinion/advice on the color stain wash, if possible. It's getting down to decision-making time, altho I'm still working on the corners, etc.

[pcambron]

Oh, I love you!!:D

That's exactly what I want to do. Please tell me how. I've never color washed anything so I don't know how to mix it, apply it, etc. Do I need to keep it off the grout/mortar? Tell me everything!

:) Thanks so much, Pat

[kemguru]

Where about in Louisiana is this brick floor? I’ll need to locate a thing or two for you. ;)

[pcambron]

About 30 miles east of Baton Rouge in Hammond (small town). We have a Lowes! Pat

[kemguru]

Thank you, Pat

I'll be back ;)

[kemguru]

Oh....

How much, if any, gloss do you want?

[doitright]

Hey Tim,

Thanks for popping in. Had a senior moment (actually several), and couldn't think of the term "Whitewash". Yeah, that's it. Whitewash! Perfect! :D

[pcambron]

I'm thinking "no gloss" or very little. What do you recommend?

Pat

[pcambron]

Hi, Tim. Thanks for spending so much time on this. If you tell me what I'll need, I'll be happy to try to locate the producs. I really need to get this done asap.

Thanks again, Pat

[pcambron]

Help! Have I been abandoned? I feel like I'm stuck in cyberspace??? Myl floor is ready to finish. What is the difference between a color wash and a white wash. I just want to wind up with a whitish finish somehow. :confused:

[pcambron]

Looks like someone added an 'angry' icon to my post ... I certainly didn't. What would I have to be angry about? I'm just waiting for information from Tim about finishing my floor . . .

Pat

[doitright]

Pat,

Try giving Tim a nudge with email. I know he's been real busy or something! ;)

[kemguru]

I’m real particular about which products are used for specific applications. Whitewashing (or any other color) is not rocket science, but it can head south in the blink of an eye. I know it’s easy and I can better “help” as long as you use products I’m familiar with. That has been the difficult part.

Okon W-2 is a water-based acrylic penetrating sealer. Use this as a “basecoat” before applying the tinted topcoat (finish). This will allow for the tinted sealer to be spread evenly and allow it to dry properly. Most surfaces need only one, good application. Some extremely porous surfaces will require two.

I called Okon to locate some suppliers in your area. They gave me three numbers. The first was disconnected. The second number was a fax machine. The third number was a wrong number…what does a law firm know about sealers? :D Okon is supposedly available at, or through, Sherwin Williams. I didn’t call them yet, so you may want to. If all else fails, you can call a janitorial supply and ask for a “basecoat” sealer. You want a “low solids, water-based, straight acrylic” product.

If you do not want any gloss, or very little gloss, you will need to find a water-based “flat” or ‘low sheen” or “satin finish” product. Sherwin Williams will have something for wood. If it’s for wood, you may have to thin it with the Okon product…50/50 in my experience.

If you want a gloss, which is always my first choice, SC Johnson Fortify is my favorite. Lowes carries the SCJ line, but they have different names for the same product. They carry something like “Concrete & Terrazzo Sealer”…which is Fortify with a different jacket on. ;)

You will add tint to one of these topcoats. I’m partial to Proline Universal Tints. This is usually available at specialty paint stores. Ask Sherwin and call the smaller mom-n-pops paint store.

Add no more than 6 oz of tint to a gallon of seal/finish. Too much and it will streak on you. Do not try to achieve all your color in one shot. If you need more color, build it with more slightly tinted coats of finish. Somewhere around 3-4 coats is normal. Allow at least 1 hour between coats.

Topcoat the tinted layers with clear finish. Same product you have been using, just don’t add tint. This will protect the tinted layers, and make maintenance much easier. When the floor needs to be touched-up in a year or two, just broom on a few coats of the same clear finish. 1000 square feet can be rejuvenated at the rate of 20 minutes per application. It sure beats trying to tint and match the new seal to the existing. ;)

All “layers”, from the base coat on up, should be applied with a pump-up sprayer. Spray on even, small areas. Using the finest push broom you can find, work it in figure-8 motions. This will make the basecoat penetrate, as well as help each layer of finish to “lay down”.

[pcambron]

WOW! and WOW! All I ever wanted to know about .... :))

We do have a SW here, as well as Lowes, so I should be able to find the prods you list. One other question, for now: How does the grout/mortar do with this? I used the chemical stripper on it, also, but it looks like some is still darker than the rest. I'm hoping the tint (white-ish) will help to even this out???

Thanks again for the great info.

Pat