View Full Version : Carpet to Slate Transition
03-04-2004, 07:54 AM
I have a new-construction customer who is dead set on using Slate in the kitchen/mudroom/laundry. The supplier and I have both exhaustively discouraged the application, but they are willing to accept the negatives to achieve the look. :bang:
The floor is engineered for L/480 since we only planned on tile; I-joists at 19.2" O.C. with one layer of 3/4 T&G OSB, glued and screwed. Based upon the need for L/720(?) I assume I will need another layer of real plywood prior to Ditra. This is an afterthought (the Slate) so the subfloor elevation between adjoining carpet and the top of the Ditra will be significant. How have you guys seen this transition handled? Seems to me to be a big jump to handle with just a "ramp" under the carpet...though I'm no carpet guy.
03-04-2004, 09:55 AM
Have them put plywood throughout the carpeted area. Use a 1/4" thicker sheet than what you put in the tile area if they want very little transition height difference. Or design a custom molding for between the slate and the carpet.
The carpet should not be ramped that much.
03-04-2004, 11:28 AM
i agree, the carpet should not be ramped very much. where is the transition ? is it a 6' wide opening ? a 20' opening ? , or simple doorways ?
i have had good results with custom milled oak thresholds. i'm not exactly sure how he makes them, but i call with specifications, then pick up my litle jewel, stain it, poly it, then nail it in.
that looks MUCH better then a road construction cone!!
03-04-2004, 12:44 PM
Yeah, I think a wood strip would look good. But how much height difference are you talking about? You can ramp carpet quite a bit before it's noticeable. :)
03-04-2004, 01:24 PM
when you ramp carpet too much there tends to become a ' void ' underneath where the rug don't actually touch the floor, it would have to be a considerable sized ramp to make up the difference that art needs
03-04-2004, 02:10 PM
The home has a very open floor plan...this is the transition from Dinnette/Kitchen to Great Room, so it is about 25' long.
I really like the idea of a wood transition. I suppose it could have some slope to its surface, which when combined with a 1/4" high carpet ramp might remove the need for another layer of plywood under the carpet. There is about 1000 SF of continuous carpet, so the ply would represent a bit of cost.
We do have a ton of road construction around here....plifered traffic cones might be an option. Seems like someone here said on another thread "its not a mistake, its a feature."
03-04-2004, 02:59 PM
Like BC mentioned, it's crtical for the carpet to rest on the pad after it's been stretched. If the ramp is too steep, the carpet will float above the pad, and wear excessively fast. There's a product called Carpet Shims that can be used to cover a large range of height problems. I'd mention the height question to who ever will install the rug for you and let them handle it. However, if the guy says he'll just have the installers stack the tackless, don't hire 'em;)
03-04-2004, 03:55 PM
The stuff is made by Johnsonite and it works.
Art, Do you have the new Schluter Ditra installation guidelines yet? If not you may want to get them from their wbsite. It is important to know how to put the second layer of wood down.
03-04-2004, 07:52 PM
Steve D, Thanks for the clarification on "ramping." I have specified the Johnsonite product in the past to get up to a 1/4" change in subfloor elevation at carpet transitions to hardgoods. I've not had any significant problems except when the carpet has been overstretched (as evidenced by the backing actually tearing!!). The subs were hired by the client after signing a "hold harmless" clause for me....I've seen on other folks' jobs carpet installers use cedar shims, but that seems like asking for trouble down the road if someone spills water on a light colored carpet and wicks some of the cedar color into the carpet.
Steven H, I don't have the new specs. I'll down load them.
03-04-2004, 08:55 PM
Naw the cedar shakes work just fine.
The wood transition is the way to go.
Must have been some pretty cheap carpet if the backing tore. While it can be be overstretched that usually isn't the problem when it comes to carpet installers. :D
03-04-2004, 09:28 PM
Well, it was a combination of ultra-cheap carpet and a power stretcher used by a crew who forgot to take the needles out of their arms before getting out of their van. :crazy: There were places they broke the baseboard and shoved them back into the drywall with the stretcher foot...."if a little tension is good, more must be mo-better."
Needless to say they didn't have to come back to restretch!
03-05-2004, 12:46 AM
Interesting. If you hadn't mentioned the damaged base, I'd of been convinced that those guys brought the stretcher in just for show, and tore that rug with a kicker. It's very easy to tear a cheap capet with a kicker, I've never come close to doing it with a stretcher. In every case I've come across, the anchoring tackless (at the foot of the stretcher) pop out of the floor before the carpet gives way, but I've only been using one for a year or so. The same guys that taught me to use mastic on shower walls also taught me to hump a kicker around any sized room :(
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