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MrSurly
02-17-2013, 10:22 AM
I will start as so many others do:
Man, I really wish I had found this place sooner!

I wish I had gotten The Kerdi Book, but it is perhaps too late now.
I am a DIYer working on my own house. I have previously done a few tile jobs but would not call myself experienced.

My project:
It started innocently enough; I needed to repair a small area of the floor near a shower.
Then, the Snowball Effect kicked in, big time.

It soon became evident that i needed to replace the shower floor and subfloor due to slow seepage through the pan.

It seems that the previous installer misunderstood the purpose of the shower pan, how to create one and the whole "waterproof membrane" concept. I could be wrong though, those might have been waterproof nails..

Soon, the project turned into a full joist to ceiling shower rehab.
I decided to make it a custom shower with multiple sprayers, etc.
I thought granite would be a nice touch. :shades:
While shopping for components I learned about Kerdi and decided to use this method, primarily because of the curb. Well, because I really don't like the way mud curbs have lath over membrane.:scratch:
I purchased these components:
Kerdi drain kit for a mud pan.
Kerdi membrane and
Kerdi band.
I'm in a small town and we don't have anyone stocking many of the other Kerdi products locally.
My first Kerdi job has gone OK I think, though not as 'pretty' as the pros do it.
I have discovered that the "squeegee"-ing that I see in the videos is:
1. Very Critical for the Kerdi to work
2. A heck of a lot harder to do (and on me) than it looks!

I'm posting pics in an album at pbase.com/nufsed/misc
I need to get them up to date as I'm almost done with the Kerdi now.

A couple of questions:
1. I have included a couple of niches and am needing to know the "trick" to sealing them withOUT using Kerdi Kereck premade corners.
I can do the inside corners by folding as you would a pan liner....but how to address the "outside" corners?

2. I had this bright idea that I should use thin-set to add a small slope to the niches before placing the final Kerdi band in there. I would reverse this with more thin-set over the Kerdi when mounting the bottom tile so as to keep the finished ledge level. Is this a bad idea?

3. The tile I am using is Absolute Black granite 12/12x3/8. I have no experience with this and to tell the truth, it looks daunting. Are there special tricks to this glass-like stuff?

4. Can the granite be cut with (Lenox) carbide hole saws or will I need to find diamond?

5. At 6.6 pound EACH do I need to support these tiles somehow until the thin-set cures?

6. I would like to use 1/16" spacing on the granite; is this OK?

I have more questions, but I'll take a breath and let y'all catch up :blah: (!)


Thanks for your indulgence!

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tilejoe
02-17-2013, 10:59 AM
Absolute black is daunting. No room for error. That said, take your time and you'll do ok. They will need some spacer or wedge until the thinset dries.

When we do niches, we do not use the corners. Usually we cut the Kerdi to fold in and out nice, then use a liquid waterproofing or kerdi fix on the corners.

tilejoe
02-17-2013, 11:01 AM
The better your prep work, studs and so forth, the easier time you will have attaining a "glass like" finish. Studs need to be perfect, and you need to make sure there are no dips or high spots on the board or kerdi install.

We only use diamond bits and blades to cut, not sure if the other stuff works.

cx
02-17-2013, 11:05 AM
Welcome, Ricky. :)

1. You might benefit from downloading John Bridge's Kerdi Shower eBook here on the site. Should be some photos in there showing how to do the corner folds. Inside corners are done same as outside corners. Personally, I'd order the pre-made corners online if they're not available locally. I'm a very large fan of those corners, 'specially in niches.

2. Bad Idea. You want both the waterproofing layer (most important) and the tile to be sloped a minimum of 1/4" per foot on any horizontal surface. On the bottom of a niche that amount of slope is not even noticeable in use.

3. You'll need to "key in" mortar on the backs of each of those tiles to achieve the necessary minimum of 95 percent coverage.

4. You'll want diamond hole saws.

5. Yes, the same as you'd want with any other vertical tile installation. Small spacers or wedges or both. Available at your local tile store.

6. It's an absolute minimum spacing and only feasible if your tiles are near perfectly cut for size and shape.

My opinion; worth price charged.

MrSurly
02-17-2013, 01:36 PM
Thanks for the quick replies. More questions while I ponder all this, and I am trying to get new pictures uploaded to phase.
I need to learn the trick for attaching pics here using attachments, paper clip etc. So far, the the "select pic" is greyed out. :scratch:

A) To set these granite tiles, what would be the proper trowel notch size / style?

B) This old pier and beam house has movement issues. I considered using Dilex cove profiles in this but have a different plan now. Tell me if this has merit:
Im thinking of laying the tiles on adjoining walls to stop at 1/2" from the corner each way, creating a void area in the corners that would be filled with either grout or silicone to create a flex joint which would be virtually hidden as the corners of the tiles would be quite close together .

C) Is there a sealant product that would you consider equivalent to KerdiFix that is available at big box stores?

tilejoe
02-17-2013, 03:20 PM
If you have movement issues, fix them first. I want no flex in my walls.

MrSurly
02-17-2013, 05:18 PM
"If you have movement issues, fix them first. I want no flex in my walls"

A laudable goal, no doubt. I also want no flex but I doubt I will achieve it.
I have addressed this to a reasonable extent, but I'm not an expert.
I have sistered joists under the bath and added several joiners between joists to reduce twisting. The movement of soils in this area from rainy to dry conditions is beyond my control but I'm taking steps to stiffen the structure.

The method I described of 'non lapping corners' has worked in another bath here with my ceramic tile tub surround install. At least, so far(!)

Brad Denny
02-17-2013, 07:05 PM
C) You might find a more reasonably priced polyurethane caulk at a roofing supplier. Sonolastic NP1 (http://www.buildingsystems.basf.com/p02/USWeb-Internet/buildingsystems/en_GB/content/microsites/buildingsystems/products/items/Sonolastic_NP_1_Copy1), I believe is used by more than one of our pros, but Schluter would not back its use, you are on your own. :shades:

MrSurly
02-18-2013, 12:07 PM
So, I called around today to see about some kerdi stuff and talked with a 'pro' who runs a tile store and who was a pro installer for ages (according to him) and he says "Kerdi is a ~pause~ good system....." with obvious hedging in his voice. "But it is really dependent on the installer" he goes on to tell me that drywall is not allowed by code and that I need to tear it out and start over with CBU.
And this guy SELLS Kerdi.

Is there a lot of disbelief in the pro community about Kerdi ?

MrSurly
02-18-2013, 03:23 PM
Calling around further I found another tile shop that actually does installs...
and they are proponents of Kerdi, installing Kerdi almost exclusively. yay(!)
The guy was very helpful, and they have in stock the Kerdi Kereck corners and DitraSet. I've not been satisfied with my attempts at the niche corners using the template and had decided to bite the bullet and use the Kerecks throughout. That's a lot of corners but hey, whaddaya gonna do, right?

I'm determined to make sure that this thing is done right so I don't ever see these studs again.
I'm having trouble with my own patience; this project began months ago and has been delayed by so many unrelated things... and now that I'm theoretically within a day's work of finishing, I don't want to wait any longer! I will, though. Prolly take me another week.

Brad Denny
02-18-2013, 07:57 PM
Ricky,
Opinions are opinions. Kerdi has been a proven product for quite a while. I personally don't "love" it, but I don't hate it either. I'm not a big fan of overlapping thickness. I think the guy hit the nail on the head when he said it depends on the installer. You can do it, fear not.

jim_c
02-18-2013, 08:24 PM
I have been doing a Kerdi shower and I'm almost ready for tiling.

Not sure if this is available in the U.S. but here in Canada Home Depot has a sealant product which is approved on the Schluter literature: it is Dap white Polyurethane for windows and doors, guaranteed 50 years on the tube.
It seems to be very good and it's only about $6 a tube.

I am a veteran of 1 (one) installation :-) and I think the "membraning" has gone well so far. If you use a stiff 6" drywall knife you can do a nice smooth job.
You will see that if you push the knife away from you at a 45^ angle rather than dragging is towards yourself or sideways, it really moves the thinset out.
Stop just at the edge of the membrane so you don't get thinset all over the knife. Then do a feathering action along the edge as you do the last bit.

MrSurly
02-18-2013, 09:13 PM
Brad, Jim thanks for that. I know i can do it, I just have to be thorough and I have to study to make certain that I've got it right.
I'm much more convinced tonight versus just yesterday. I decided to re-do several things that just didn't look correct or weren't lapped fully, plus I'm doing the Kereck corners. The chat with the local Kerdi guy helped a lot and then when I got here to remove some of the dodgy bits ...I was AMAZED by just how seriously STUCK to the wall this stuff really is!
I wonder if anyone has rigged up a test with, say, a piece of Hardi with a sandwich of Kerdi and more hardi and tested the force needed to separate it? The only way to get the Kerdi loose from the wall is to peel it and this is tougher than I would have guessed. I noted that when peeling, the thinset does not let go at all. The peeling action actually rips the fleece from the sheet of Kerdi. the thinset is completely intact. (only a couple of days old)
This little exercise greatly increased my understanding of and confidence in the system that is Kerdi.
I know now that if one were to rig up a method to pull straight on the face of the Kerdi to the point of destruction, the drywall would pull off its screws first.


Jim, can you point me to the Dap reference and perhaps an item number?

jadnashua
02-19-2013, 12:14 AM
Kerdi has tested out at over 50#/sqin in shear once the thinset has cured. So, you'd tear the house down before you got things to break down over a large surface. Now, as you've found, you can peel it off, but that's not really realistic once you have it covered in tile.

For the tile spacers, you don't want rubber like, flexible ones since with a stack of large heavy tile, they can slide down and compress the lower ones, messing up your careful work.

To achieve flat, you might want to consider something like LASH or the TLS leveling systems. It can be done without them, but it's easier and quicker with them.

MrSurly
02-19-2013, 11:17 AM
OK, I got the Kereck corners installed. What a major pain in the butt these little niche corners are! I wish I had realized that the pieces would need trimming before I had installed them(!) I had a bit of messy removal/trimming/reinstalling but it worked out OK.
While I was at it, I replaced a couple of dodgy-looking seams that didn't have enough lap or were too thick. It is all much smoother now. I'll try to attach a before/ after pic below. These are phone pics, which means there is some distortion.

Before/after

jim_c
02-19-2013, 04:20 PM
Is it Ricky?
Your pics look good; your membrane is pretty neat, not too messy.
Sounds like you are very competent and good luck with your project.
The DAP I have used is suggested on the Schluter literature that Home Depot gives out in Canada, so it must be (?) approved by Schluter. I have not seen Kedi Fix so I can't compare them from experience, but they are apparently similar.
The product is Premium Polyurethane adhesive sealant, white, for windows and doors, 50 years. It's in a mostly grey tube with blue and yellow. UPC barcode is 70798 74810 (1). Approx. $6 for 300 mL.

Btw, I "tested" some PL Premium construction adhesive on some of the foam curb material and while it worked, it also ate big holes in the polystyrene, so I would test with any material before using it gung ho.
Jim

MrSurly
02-22-2013, 12:37 PM
Jim, thanks for the kind words. I'm trying to do it right.
I do have some issues with build up at the corners; it can be quite frustrating.

I found one shop locally that had KerdiFix on hand but I balked at the $28 price.

Seems silly to get chinchy at this point, I know, but I only need such a small bit for a few screw holes. I decided to search further for the DAP stuff. At another shop to order some other things, they had a partial tube of KerdiFix just back from a job and the guy gave it to me!

I've made some progress cutting and drilling tiles as prep for installing (hopefully tonight). I have a bunch to cut and drill, it seems. I rigged up a way to make the wetsaw usable in the bathroom...I'm sure the neighbors are amused.

I did find that the carbide hole saw does cut this stuff. It is slow and I don't know if it will last through ALL of the cuts, but I'm certainly thankful that I have a drill press! I bought a diamond hole saw but haven't opened it yet. The carbide hole saw I already had so I figured I'll use till I use it up. I fashioned a chunk of foam rubber to maintain a water bath for the cut. Tonight I get to try the carbide jigsaw blade and also to learn if my layout and measurements are accurate or very costly(!) I'm betting the pros have a much better way of doing this....

MrSurly
02-23-2013, 01:49 AM
138720
138721

Today I tried to drill some of the 2" holes with a new carbide hole saw and unlike the 1-3/8, the thing didn't work or hold up at all. I did manage to complete a single hole but it was near an hour process. Tomorrow I go get the 2" diamond hole saw. With a late start I tried to mix just a little Ditraset to install a bunch of Kerdi seals. After that I started to install some of the absolute black granite tiles. The good news: My measurements and cut outs seem to fit!! YAY!
The bad news: lippage! :crap: And to think, two weeks ago I didn't know what that meant. I pulled 'em all down and cleaned it all up. Tomorrow I'll get a bigger trowel, maybe a 3/8~3/8 or even 3/8~ 1/2. With a fresh start, the 2" cuts done and enough thinset mixed I will tackle it again.

seanboyle
02-23-2013, 07:21 AM
Everywhere you have overlap you'll need a little less thinset. I ran my trowel at a steeper angle over the overlap sections. I also back buttered the tile. That said, I also used a 3/8" trowel for the 12 inch tiles. If you can start laying tile in the sections with overlap then you'll know if you have enough thinset in the non-overlap areas. You can always backbutter the non-overlap tiles a little more to make up the difference.

If you are running real small grout lines, you might consider a leveling system.

MrSurly
02-23-2013, 01:58 PM
Another big rookie mistake.
First, the major success of today: desperately searching for a 2" diamond bit came up dry but I was reminded of the new granite shop up the road...talked with him and he say's sure, he can cut those, just bring 'em by! I double-timed it to the house and gathered the pieces which needed 2-1/8" holes which I had already marked. The guy used a nifty handheld 'wet side grinder' and a 1 1/2" coring bit, then followed with the same grinder with a diamond "burr" to complete the hole to size. He did four 2 1/8" holes in maybe twenty minutes tops. Ten bucks a hole....I almost hugged him.

Now the mistake that I just now discovered; previously I had cut 1-3/8" holes in four different tiles and although I have a NIB diamond 1-3/8" hole saw on hand, I elected to suffer with the carbide so I could save 20 bux by returning the diamond saw. Of course, this was a major error. Each of these tiles cracked. Yep, every one. I can assume it was because of the stress of the slow slow carbide drilling. I used a water bath as pictured and went very very slow, but each one cracked anyway. So now, having wasted more than 20 bux and a day, I will re-do each one in new tile with the diamond hole saw and try again. The granite shop guy has gone home. Now worrying that I might have to drive to DFW again to get more tile!
I hadn't noticed the cracks even when I installed them on the wall last night but I didn't actually clean them up, either. At this point I am SOOOOO glad that I took them back down!

You can't have this kinda fun just anywhere!

EDIT: OK, I finally got the diamond 1-3/8" hole saw out and Damn! What a ridiculous difference! Maybe no difference in ceramics, but the ABG just eats carbide stuff while this diamond hole saw just walks right through it! NO comparison is valid as these are apples/elephants different.
The diamond (and this is a CHEAP one from Lowes..) saw just breezes through the ABG 3/8" in 45 seconds. I spent HOURS trying to force the carbide to work, destroying the tile in the process.
Noise; Heat; Vibration;smoothness of cut;'roundness';straightness; stress factor; time factor...Diamond kicks carbide ass.
I hope I can learn to be a better listener.

jim_c
02-23-2013, 03:41 PM
You seem like a pretty cool guy; it takes some guts to admit your mistakes and move on.
What I have found, probably obvious to the pros, is that each (type of) tile is different. I had some Italian porcelain that was extremely difficult to drill, even with a diamond bit. I have had other tiles which were very easy to drill with the same equipment. What I do now is buy a sample tile before I commit to a large quantity and I test the sample for its "drillability". If it's too hard, I don't buy it.
My current issue is that HD here wants $48 for a 1" diamond Dewalt bit, and I only need it to drill one hole! I am now ready to tile my new Schluter shower, but I'm going on vacation first! Remember what John Bridge says: "being in a hurry can lead to a bad attitude"!
J.

MrSurly
02-23-2013, 08:24 PM
I'm making itty bitty progress, it seems. I now have some twenty tiles up and I think they are as good as I can make 'em.:cheers: They are the tiles that encompass the main group of valves and pipe nipples. I got two other trowels today, a 1/4-3/8 and a 1/2-1/2 (!) They didn't have an in-between. I used the 1/4-3/8, keyed the mortar into the tiles heavily, back buttered a lot with rather loose DitraSet. I definitely got full coverage. I pulled three to butter more and tried to set them without really pressing them in...then chased them all over with a five foot straight edge and a four foot level, pressing the tiles with these. I had to quickly fashion a tile lifting tool as I hadn't thought to find out what is used for this by those who know things. For me it was a small nail and a pair of pliers. Yeah, elegant, I know.
My daughter and I were discussing the process and the possible use of the half inch trowel on the back wall which is less even.
She asked a question that made me say 'hey' and think about it some:
"Why don't you use the thinset to float the back wall to make it flat, let it cure and then tile it?"
I just don't know, do you guys ever do this? "Level" a vertical surface?

Jim, if the hole is in a portable tile, you might ask a granite shop as I did to cut it, or take it to a machine shop that has a water-jet cutting table. I considered this for mine, but they wanted too much money for the large number of holes I had. Just one though it would be less than buying the hole saw. I have cut a hole through glass with a bead blaster as well... Food for thought.
The HD here doesn't carry the diamond hole saws. Lowes had a few, the largest 1-3/8. A side note: at Lowes, in Tools they have a Lenox 1-3/8 for $43.97.
However, back in flooring, they had a Precision Components with a handy little water dam for under twenty(!)
138723
138724
138722
138725

cwilde72
02-24-2013, 08:42 AM
Looking good Ricky! There's nothing wrong with floating the walls. I've done it before to help deal with the dreaded Kerdi buildup. Just make sure you burn the ditra-set into the kerdi before you start screeding. It's not gonna look purty when done because of the sticky tendencies of thinset but don't overwork it or you'll just end up making it worse. Once it's dry you can knock down ridges and fill in voids. Oh, and don't mix the thinset too loose or it'll slump. Stupid gravity!

Houston Remodeler
02-24-2013, 09:23 AM
That is nice and flat looking.

A little friendly warning though, things will slow down dramatically when you get to that niche. Don't expect speed in that area.

MrSurly
02-24-2013, 12:23 PM
Things are getting ugly, guys. The "Dreaded Kerdi Buildup":crap: is killin' me. Chasing all over this wall trying to find the highest spot and it is in the bottom corners. Apparently this rookie didn't work hard enough to get these hard to reach areas thin enough. Turns out the lumpy niches are not the worst (!) Starting at these high spots and plumbing to the ceiling leaves some spots needing more than a quarter-inch over big spans of Kerdi. Two things:
1.) I'm not ripping it out, and
2.) I'm going to get it flat somehow.

What I've done so far: I decided to create a screed along both sides that I can use to 'level' a big mess of thinset. Of course, as pointed out, it sticks to everything so I formed two rows of the stuff and man it was ugly. No way to get nice smooth surfaces for screeding, so I cut strips of freezer paper and covered the thinset then used a long level to press it into shape. I now have two screeds of vertical thinset curing. Be damned if I can figure out what to do next!
I know what I'm gonna TRY...
138788

138789

I think I'll go work on a different wall now.

Houston Remodeler
02-24-2013, 01:12 PM
Ricky,

Instead of screeding, you can float the wall in repeated layers to build up, using a straight edge just to check the depth. Mark the walls for the differing depths.

Thinset usually has a working MAX depth of 1/4" when tile is installed, and isn't meant for this purpose. Be sure not to cross that limit. If you are, a medium set may be your best friend and you can skip floating the wall and use the medium set to hang the tiles.

Obie1
02-24-2013, 02:11 PM
Really cool project your doing Ricky!
Correct me if I'm wrong paul, but isn't ditra set a medium bed?

MrSurly
02-24-2013, 02:23 PM
Thanks for that. That doesn't sound like something from a box store (Sunday). Could you be more specific as to brand,etc? Local suppliers have Ditra and custom products. Is the medium-set also "unmodified"?
What is it called from Schluter or from Custom?
Would it be useful for floating and then Ditra on top?
I don't know if I would want to set them with that much wet mortar; I did something similar on the first wall and it turned out OK but it wasn't fun.
I keep thinking that a nice true-flat wall and a normal amount of thinset would be much more enjoyable. You're prolly right, tho. Thinset might not be the right way to go just now.
If thinset were applied to 1/4" left to cure and then another layer used to set tile, would that change the math or its suitability?

Houston Remodeler
02-24-2013, 02:26 PM
Ricky,

Ditraset is a medium set. CBP also makes medium set mortar, their marble and granite mix for example.

MrSurly
02-24-2013, 02:36 PM
138790

The Ditra I have is pictured here.

I think you're saying that Ditra Sells a medium-set version?

Houston Remodeler
02-24-2013, 02:47 PM
The ditra set I buy in the orange bags is a medium set according to the folks at Schluter, There has been some discrepancy about what they write on the bags. WHen in doubt, wait until Monday and call tech support.

jgleason
02-24-2013, 06:43 PM
Hi Ricky,

It is preferred that you use the attachment method to upload your images directly into the forum database. This helps ensure the size requirements are met (the forum will auto resize uploaded images) and ensures that the images will always be displayed in your post. (Images hotlinked from 3rd party sites can disappear over time leaving your posts without the visual context originally intended).

Note-if your image files are >2MB you will have to resize them first. Handy utility for doing that is here - http://imageresizer.codeplex.com/

When using Tapatalk - Choose the camera icon and upload an image from your phone/tablet. please don't use the "insert image from link" option.

MrSurly
02-24-2013, 09:52 PM
Thanks. I have been using tapatalk to insert the pics as they are on the phone. I didn't realize that they were being linked. Apparently Tapatalk hosted. I'll switch methods.
I prefer using tapatalk to add pics since they are usually phone pics anyway. It's really quick and easy and it *says* it is "attaching" the pic but I see on the forum that it is uploading to some other server and linking.
I'm working on this; tapatalk is not giving me the option to attach vs host which it usually does on other forums. I don't know why that is

jgleason
02-24-2013, 10:06 PM
No worries. Thanks Ricky.

MrSurly
02-26-2013, 04:24 PM
OK, guys, time for a real question for those in the know:
I am getting some glass mosaic sheets for accent purposes.
What do I need in the way of mortar and grout specifically for this glass?
I want the mortar (adhesive?) to be white and also the grout, just for the mosaic, the rest of the shower will be either grey or black grout.
The tile is Daltile Memphis Blues made by Fontana.


On an earlier subject:"The ditra set I buy in the orange bags "...Paul, I eventually got a call back from Bostik re: the DitraSet. I'm not particularly impressed or convinced by the answers.

The guy tells me that ALL the DitraSet is 'medium'....they just haven't made the bag change yet.

I asked: so, what is the maximum installed thickness application?
He said: I don't have the specs in front of me but I'm sure it is on the bags.
[Note that I had left a detailed message about what I wanted to know and he called ME to provide answers...without the spec sheet, just a take-my-word-for-it I'm-sure-it's-on-there proposition.
I said, this would be the bags that have the erroneous "thin-set" on them?
Yes.
But the other information on the bag is legit?
Yes.
But you can't tell me what it says?
No.
So, what is the difference between the Blue or Orange bag DitraSet?
They should be the same.
Uhmmm, should be?
They're the same thing, different bags.
You're sure?
Yep.
But you don't have the spec sheet?
No.

BTW: a call to Schlueter/Kerdi re: DitraSet is useless. They direct you to Google for Bostik's number.

MrSurly
02-27-2013, 02:47 PM
Glass
Mosaic

Mortar and grout.

C'mon guys. I need some guidance

cwilde72
02-27-2013, 06:56 PM
Ricky, I'd use either Laticrete's Glass Tile Adhesive or their 254 Platinum to set the glass. For grouting I'd use either an epoxy or urethane grout so that there is no worries of the dark grout staining the white grout. Personally I think a very light grey or silver grout would look better with that glass. Also keep in mind that you'll probably have to float out the area of the accent strip so that the glass tiles are flush with the field tile.

MrSurly
02-28-2013, 09:54 AM
Chad, thanks for that. The glass is supposed to be 1/8" and the granite is just over 3/8". I would guess that the adhesive should never be used for filling this gap and that I would need to float this with another material.
I have had no success at floating DitraSet and leaving a smooth surface.
Would you suggest another material for this?
Should I try to inset some hardibacker?

jim_c
02-28-2013, 11:22 AM
I tried this when doing a similar task:
I used LFT white mortar and applied a layer in the low area.
Then I raked it with a 1/8"x1/8" trowel that I cut to fit.
After the ridges set up I broke off the loose bits and filled the grooves with more LFT to make a flat smooth surface. Two stage process, took two days but then I was able to tile over that with my thinner accent tiles to match the ht. of the main tiles. May be a half baked amateur idea, but it worked!
JC

cwilde72
02-28-2013, 09:50 PM
Jim's process sounds kinda cool but I just do it in just one step. Like Jim, I prefer to use a medium-bed thinset. My "go to" is Laticrete 4 XLT but realistically any thinset will work including you're Ditra Set. You'll need to make a screed tool. I like to use cheap plastic scrapers and notch them out to achieve the desired finished bed thickness. Tile thickness + 3/32" min. Somebody here has some pics of this process somewhere on this forum. Maybe they'll come along and post em....

cwilde72
03-01-2013, 12:21 AM
Almost forgot about this lil trick! Pre-mount the glass to some left over Kerdi. Then when it's time to install them just use a 1/4" notched trowel and set the premounted strips into place. With this method there is no worry about thinset oozing and makes them easier to cut. Haven't used this trick in quite a while.

ps. I've used Ditra in this manner as well. Shhhh!!

MrSurly
03-01-2013, 07:48 AM
Quote:>>Almost forgot about this lil trick! Pre-mount the glass to some left over Kerdi. Then when it's time to install them just use a 1/4" notched trowel and set the premounted strips into place. With this method there is no worry about thinset oozing and makes them easier to cut. Haven't used this trick in quite a while.<<

/\
THIS

Sounds like a great idea! :postitbg:

I'm actually planning to try something 'artistic' with the glass, which I would need to lay out on a board or somesuch anyway. This will fit right in with that process.

John Bridge
03-01-2013, 07:57 AM
Hi Ricky,

You're getting good advice, and I'm not gonna interfere. I do want to say, though, that Ditra-set is pretty awesome stuff. :)

So is Laticrete. :)

MrSurly
03-01-2013, 11:11 AM
Is this pre-mounting to the Kerdi....using the glass adhesive directly to Kerdi?
I want to make sure I understand and also want to make sure that the result is as white as possible. I don't know what color the adhesive is.
(Silver would be cool)

cwilde72
03-01-2013, 06:46 PM
Ricky, although they call it an adhesive it is still a modified thinset made exclusively for glass. You still have to mix it with water like your Ditra Set. And, yes, it is white. Use it to mount your glass to your leftover sheets of Kerdi. A 3/16" v-notch trowel should do the trick for those 1/8" tiles. It's easiest to cut the mosaics down to the desired size strips before mounting to the Kerdi. Once mounted you'll need to trim the excess Kerdi with a utility knife. Kinda a pain with interlocking tiles but can be done with some patience. There's no need to hurry! That's the beauty of this method-you're allowed to take your time

jim_c
03-03-2013, 02:13 PM
Chad, that is an awesome idea! I LOVE YOU......er, I mean it! :-)
I have lots of Kerdi and lots of time.
Jim

cwilde72
03-03-2013, 02:47 PM
Settle down Jimbo, it's only tile....:D

wilander
03-03-2013, 03:00 PM
I have lots of Kerdi and lots of time jim_c - if you want to practice your kerdi skills on my shower you're more than welcome to :D just need to make quick trip to Speers flooring to get the kerdi.....