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jim_c
02-03-2013, 12:29 PM
Hi folks. Have been lurking, just registered. Lots of good info here - thanks to all who post tips. I am currently doing a major shower rebuild in my ensuite using the Schluter Kit. Just finished the plumbing. I ripped out all the original shower (25 years old) and made the new shower bigger. It will be 54" x 34" with tile on three walls and sliding glass doors on the front.
I have done several tile jobs in the last few years and I'm a very careful worker so I've had good results so far. Very interested in the Scluter non-modified thinset discussion. I think I've read everything on here by now but always interested in learning new things.
One question I have is about grouting since I want to use a thin grout line on this job. I have always figured that the proper way to grout is to have the wet grout flow down into the gap and actually a short way under the adjacent tiles. This will hold it in once it hardens and it cannot (theoretically) fall out. Is this correct? With very thin grout lines, using non-sanded grout, is it "OK" if this effect does not happen? Please share your opinions about what's really critical with thin grout lines. Thanks very much.
Jim C.

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jim_c
02-03-2013, 12:41 PM
I am not a super experienced tile guy but I have done a lot of projects of various types over the years. Most of my tile work has been with fairly large tiles and I prefer to backbutter and comb thinset on the tiles as I go, rather than spreading the mortar on the substrate. This is probably a slower method but I think it has a couple benefits. One thing I do is to not apply too much mortar at the edge of the tile. I clean off the edge with a trowel or my finger just before I lay the tile. This means that I don't get thinset squishing into the gap tetween the tiles. If I do get mortar between tiles I remove it thoroughly so it doesn't interfere when grouting. This suggestion may work for some of the folks who were posting about all the effort it takes to remove excess thinset.

With regards to this and other posts of mine, please telll me if I am doing anything really dumb or incorrect!!!!! I'm just a doitmyselfer. (Although I was a professional licensed tradesman at one time in ancient history.)

cx
02-03-2013, 01:14 PM
Welcome, Jim. :)

It'll help if you'll keep all your project questions on one thread so folks can see what you're working on and what's been previously asked and answered. We can give it a more generic title any time you'd like to suggest one.

The object of bonding mortar application is to achieve a minimum thickness after the tiles are set of a minimum of 3/32nds of an inch and coverage of a minimum of 95 percent of the back of each tile with full coverage on all corners and edges. How you elect to achieve that is entirely up to you. "Notching" mortar onto the substrate and "keying in" mortar on the backs of the tiles is the more common method, but you can do it any way you like.

Grout should never "flow down into the gap" between your tiles. Grout should be of a consistency that requires it to be forced into the grout joints. Peanut butter is often used to describe the proper consistency of cementitious grouts. Rather dry peanut butter would suit me better.

Less water in the grout and much less water used in the cleanup of the grout will always give you a stronger and more color-consistent job with cementitious grouts.

What are you calling a "thin grout line?"

My opinion; worth price charged.

jim_c
02-03-2013, 05:34 PM
What I meant was that the grout moves down into the gap as you force it along with the grout float. I know it does not flow like water but as you apply force with the float it does move down and into the joint. What I was getting at is how far down does it go and what does it look like down in the gap. I still think that the best result is if the grout get down and under the edge of the tiles that must be ideal. Am I still out to lunch or do you see what I mean? By "thin", I mean 1/16th" or less. Thanks for the replies.
Jim C.

cx
02-03-2013, 05:43 PM
Very rare that your tiles are sized closely enough to use a 1/16th" grout joint, Jim, and the tile industry recommends that you never use a joint smaller than that. The recommendation is for a grout joint width of three times the difference between the largest and smallest tile in your layout.

If you're setting your tiles correctly, there would be no space under the tile edges for the grout to fill. The grout is meant to fill the grout joint all the way to the bottom of the available space, which should be at least 2/3rds the depth of your tiles after you've cleaned your joints after setting. You want to fill the joint completely full up to the top of the tile or the base of the cushion on a cushion-edged tile.

My opinion; worth price charged.

Tool Guy - Kg
02-03-2013, 05:52 PM
If the tile has proper thinset coverage under it, there aren't much of any voids under the perimeter of the tile. Ideally, the grout would simply be filling the rectangular (to trapezoidal) void between the tiles.

Grout manufacturers regularly instruct to have at least 2/3rds of the tile depth open for grout. They are perfectly happy having their grout stick to just the sides of smooth tile. There is no need (or desire) for there to be gaps under the tile edges for the grout to be "locked in".

:)

EDIT: ...fast fingers beat me again. Or maybe I'm just paying too much attention to the superbowl while typing. :D

cx
02-03-2013, 05:57 PM
That's on accounta Fast Fingers don't be watchin' no Stupid Bowl, Goldstein. :D

jim_c
02-04-2013, 03:45 PM
Thank you for the replies. I do appreciate it.
The trend in this area is to use very thin grout lines for a lot of the tile work done in fancy homes. I have never done a particularly thin grout myself but I have seen several installations. The consideration for the variation as CX explained is interesting. I get it.
Jim C.

jim_c
03-19-2013, 03:05 PM
Can one of the mods please re-name this thread - Jim's ensuite shower - or something similar. I previously asked about grout lines and in other threads I asked about epoxy grout but I don't think I will be using it. But I agree it's good to keep to one thread per project. I plan and research everything as much as possible ahead of time - thank goodness for this site!
This current job is to replace and enlarge the original shower which was about 34"x34". It was built originally in 1987 and was a terrible job with drywall and mastic, no waterproofing etc. The original literally fell apart after about 8 years. The walls were rebuilt and retiled and the original floor was left which was a mistake. This second shower had been there for about 15 years but it was ugly and we had problems with mold forever. I won't bore you with all the defects in those jobs. I have now gutted the original, took out the false ceiling to make the new shower 8' high and 34"x54".
I built a new wet wall, added framing to the original walls, drywalled the ceiling to match the rest of the room and I've installed kerdi board and densshield walls. Kerdiboard is up to 64" high, densshield above that.
I've installed the kerdi base and kerb and done all the membrane and installed the drain. I think it's all good so far and I am ready to tile when I get home from a brief vacation.
I will try to add a few pics from another shower job I did last year in the basement. At that time I was unaware of this site, so if I were doing it over I would do it differently, but I'm sure it will hold up until I go to the BIG BOX store in the sky. (I am 67yo.)

jim_c
03-19-2013, 03:10 PM
a few pics if I can attach them:
jim
140343

140344

140345

jim_c
03-27-2013, 03:26 PM
Hi Folks,
I'm back from waycation and back to work on my shower job.
I had been thinking I would use sanded grout on the floor but now I'm not sure. Please comment as to how I decide on sanded vs. unsanded. (I don't think I will use epoxy grout, which I had considered.) Grout will be white.
I had the idea that sanded grout should be somehow stronger and better.
But now that I look closely I see that my mosaic 2"x2" floor tiles are only 90 thou apart ( approx. O.090"). There is some variation but all spaces are significantly less than 1/8". Is unsanded acceptable for a shower floor?
I have used both on other jobs I have done.
Thanks again.
Jim C.

ss3964spd
03-28-2013, 07:46 AM
Unsanded is fine for the floor, Jim, but why did ya decide against the epoxy?

If there was only one place I could use epoxy it would be the floor. doesn't stain which means it doesn't get dirty as quickly and, when it does, cleans up easier, hardly absorbs any water which means less water under the tiles. What's not to love?

Oh, well, except the price.....

jim_c
03-28-2013, 03:55 PM
No final decision has been made on the grout.
Thanks for posting. (is that an Impala in your avitar?)
I will do some more research to see if I can find epoxy locally.
There were some earlier suggestions along those lines.
Jim

ss3964spd
03-28-2013, 04:12 PM
It is, Jim, a '66.

jim_c
03-30-2013, 07:45 AM
Thought so.
When I was young and foolish (foolisher?) in 1965 I had a '62 Impala convertible, white, black top, red interior. What a boat!
Would enjoy talkin' cars with you but we'd better get back to tiling!

My project is in a holding pattern as I source my final materials.
Bought some 12x24 Italian porcelain tiles at a bargain price so almost there.

Took delivery of a 3/4" (19mm) diamond hole saw straight from China, which I bought on EBaY for $5 !! lol

jim_c
03-30-2013, 07:57 AM
Regarding metal trim pieces to finish off the edge of the tiles....

What's the best way to install edge trim? I will probably use a piece on each wall where the tiles end, almost 8' from the curb to the ceiling.

Are these pieces simply held in place by the thinset under the tile?
I assume the trim is just set by pushing the lattice looking part into the mud under the tile edge and then getting it - the trim - as straight as possible.
OR, ?, is it feasible to attach the trim to the wall with sealant e.g. or small screws, and then set the tiles against it? IF it's just the thinset holding the trim then all the tiles against the trim must be done at the same time so the thinset is "wet" - right?

Thanks again everyone.
Jim

jim_c
04-02-2013, 03:50 PM
I found some nice metal J trim edge which I plan to use at the end of the tiled areas. The cut edges will be hidden. I also learned that one of our local suppliers, Speers Flooring, will order Mapei Kerapoxy epoxy grout for me, $86 a gallon. Well, not a real gallon, just a U.S. gallon, lol. (3.8 L). So I'm considering using that. There is a lot of discussion on here about Spectralock which I have been diligently reading. Can anyone comment on the similarities or differences between Spectralock and Kerapoxy please?
I have now finished the area outside my shower. I had to cut the floor tiles and redo a few since I made this shower bigger, but I needed to save the main tiled bathroom floor.
I've been laying out the shower floor tiles and planning for the drain grate. I had to trim a few tiles since they were not really 2"x2" and the Schluter drain grate is a fraction wider than 2 tiles.
So far-so good. My ducks are lining up.

jim_c
04-02-2013, 03:52 PM
Also learned that Continental Glass will do a sliding glass door or also two sliding glass doors for my 54" wide opening at a very competitive price.
That should be the final piece to the puzzle.

PC7060
04-02-2013, 06:28 PM
Jiim, any pictures of your current project?

jim_c
04-03-2013, 12:51 PM
PIX coming soon!
Just finalizing my layout and then I will do the tiles.
I have 12x24 porcelain for the walls and I need to position everything well with respect to the niche openings (2 niches) and the shower controls and heads (2 shower heads).
Thanks!

jim_c
04-03-2013, 04:57 PM
I have lots of pics I could share now. Just got a new phone and learning how to use it. Hey, give me a break, I'm an old guy. What is the etiquette around posting pics? Is there a limit? I will post a few from my "before" and demo phase. I also have some nice ones of my new curb, lol.

jim_c
04-03-2013, 05:00 PM
Pics. I hope they are not too big.

dhagin
04-03-2013, 06:05 PM
Lookin good Jim. :tup1:

Here's some photo info from the FAQ's in the blue bar above. :)

http://www.johnbridge.com/vbulletin/faq.php?faq=vb3_reading_posting#faq_vb3_attachments

jim_c
04-06-2013, 08:25 PM
Started setting the 12x24" back wall tiles today with Versa Bond.
So far it's gone very well. Tiles have been up for several hours and none have fallen off the walls yet! Since I was a chemist in a former lifetime, I always measure the thinset in grams and the water in mls. to replicate the mfrs. instructions. (My biggest challenge will be cutting a "U" in two tiles to surround the small foot niche.) I used the masking tape trick to encourage the tiles to stay where I want them; never did that before but all my grout lines look good. As CX explained a while ago, there is surprising variation in the length of the tiles which is visible after they're up. Probably a max of about 1/32" but it's there.

jim_c
04-06-2013, 08:27 PM
PS. That last foto with the green tape on the floor is the old shower btw!
More pics to come.

jim_c
04-08-2013, 05:41 PM
Hi again,
Tiling of walls is going well. I would appreciate any comments regarding the next steps. I plan to install the floor tiles on the Schluter tray before I do the bottom row of walls tiles. That is, I will tile the walls except for the bottom row, then tile the floor, then install the final row of wall tiles.
Do I need to grout the floor and wait for a while before I do the final wall tiling? Is it ok to work on the floor while it is not grouted? I would of course cover it with corrugated and a piece of carpet to protect it. Then I could do all the grouting at the same time after the final wall tiles are set.
Or is there a better sequence?? Thanks.

jim_c
04-08-2013, 06:06 PM
That should be vs.
Anyone have any experience to compare Mapei to Spectralock epoxy grout?
I have read the accolades about Spectralock, but my local supplier can order mapei for me. Thank you.

jim_c
04-10-2013, 07:13 PM
I have seen a YouTube video called "How to Use Epoxy Grout."
It's by a fellow named Jason (ceramictilepro).
I think it's quite usefull as I am planning to do epoxy soon and I have never done it. Does anyone have any comments regarding the techniques in the video? He mentions grouting the transitions to the walls, let's just leave that aspect as it has been discussed her at length already. Would really love to hear your comments. I did not find many videos on epoxy grouting. Nothing on the Mapei website. Really would like to get some pointers. Thanks!

Houston Remodeler
04-10-2013, 07:15 PM
Jim,

Have you seen the Fusion (http://www.custombuildingproducts.com/products/grout-materials/single-component-grout/fusion-pro.aspx) one part grout?

Its very cool stuff and they have great factory made videos.

jim_c
04-14-2013, 08:15 PM
Thanks. I did find a Laticrete video on YouTube that was pretty good.

Over the last few days I have done most of my wall tiles and also set the floor mosaics which are 2x2 on 1 ft sq. sheets. I was a bit concerned about the amount of glue residue on the mesh backing. On some of the sheets there was a lot of excess white glue and I tried to wash it off with water and rubbing alcohol and a bit of soap. Went ahead and set the sheets on my floor without having to cut any except 5 around the Schluter drain grate.
Doing the drain and setting the height was a bit stressful but it seems to be OK. Will attach some pics after I install the marble slab on the curb.

If I protect the floor with some corrugated cardboard (e.g.) is it OK to stand carefully on the floor so I can finish the bottom row of wall tiles?

How diligent (anal ?) do I need to be in cleaning the excess thinset out of the joints before grouting? I think I got most of it out asap after setting the sheets.

Houston Remodeler
04-14-2013, 08:23 PM
1- the next day yes

2- very anal is nice. OCD is best. depending on the thinset the next day is just okay. By the 2nd or 3rd day you'll be adding to the cuss jar

jim_c
04-15-2013, 06:31 PM
Thanks Paul. I just went back and finished cleaning out the floor joints!
Today I installed the marble slab on the curb and started cutting the remaining wall tiles. Hope to be all finished setting all tiles this week.
I try to cut very precisely so I am slow. I also spend a lot of time cleaning up between tasks. Have to get this job done before golf season. Fortunately the weather sucks so I'd rather be tiling. lol.
:-)

Houston Remodeler
04-15-2013, 07:29 PM
Ontario right? Golf season is what - 30 minutes long?

jim_c
04-16-2013, 04:11 PM
Today I cut the tiles for the foot niche the wife will use for shaving her lovely legs! This is a small niche about 14" off the floor.
I cut the short perpendicular cuts for the height of the opening, and then I dropped the tile from above onto the saw blade to cut the vertical edge.
I set the fence so I would get the right width and let the blade come up from below as I held the tile stationary. The method where you cut out a bunch of fingers and then nipper them off would not have given as smooth a cut.
Background is kerdi board and membrane.

jim_c
04-16-2013, 04:13 PM
In the pic the tiles are just sitting on a bit of carpet.
Tomorrow I'll set them on the wall.
Too much stress for one day.
Hey, I'm an old man!

jim_c
04-16-2013, 04:17 PM
The back wall studs only allowed for narrow niches, so I did a double up above and a foot niche down below. Tiles are 24x12 set portrait, not landscape.

Houston Remodeler
04-16-2013, 04:59 PM
Looks great Jim :postitbg:

PC7060
04-16-2013, 05:56 PM
Nice detail layout and cutting Jim. Definitely "two's company" quality workmanship!

jim_c
04-18-2013, 06:07 PM
Will finish tiling tomorrow, thank goodness! Only two weeks, not bad.
With these large tiles I used 52 tiles and only 11 did not have to be cut.
Several had to be cut twice or more. I wasted 20% since once a tile was cut, the remainder could not be used anywhere else. Just picked up the Mapei Kerapoxy today so will be grouting mext week. Looking forward with trepidation to the epoxy grout!!!

2BPS
04-18-2013, 09:34 PM
Jim, I really like the look of those large format tiles in portrait orientation. You must have had very flat walls to get away with 24" high tiles! That was brave. I am anxious to hear your experience with the epoxy grout. I am thinking about trying the Fusion Pro but haven't decided yet.

I've made a very similar square shaving niche for my shower (before seeing yours, honest!).

jim_c
04-19-2013, 03:44 PM
Picked up the Mapei Kerapoxy yest but when I got home I noticed there's a production date stamped on the lid. Jan 2011. Called Mapei tech supprt in Montreal and they advised me it's expired and best not to use it. Speers will replace it. Oh well, I didn't want to grout this weekend anyway.
Mapei gentleman on the phone (800 #) was very helpful and easy to talk to.
Made in Canada? Holy cow.

jim_c
04-21-2013, 01:31 PM
Hi there JW,
I have been searching for info on Kerapoxy from Mapei and came across your comments. I am a competent doitmyselfer but I have never done epoxy grout. I committed to the product and now I will go ahead. I have do do a shower floor and the walls which are large tiles so not much to grout. Floor is 34" x 53" with 2x2 mosaic porcelain.
Can you give me any advice or tips please?
(Other than, don't do it!)
Why are you so unhappy with the Kerapoxy?
The benefits seem to be significant. (?)
Thanks, fellow Canuckistani.

jwmezzanotte
04-21-2013, 05:27 PM
I don't know how to separate the posts, so maybe someone could separate these into another thread?

Jim
I am not unhappy with the Kerapoxy, its a great product. Its just messy. I don't like to wear gloves, I don't like getting it on my clothes/tools/arms etc. Its not fun. But the results are good.

Tips
If its your first time, and you have not already purchased your grout I would recommend getting it in quart sizes vs gallons. It will cost more, but you will not have to work with as much at once. Remember the whole amount you mix will start to harden all at the same time, not just what you have spread. On my first go I got behind quite far. Was a struggle to catch up.

You would probably find it very helpful to do the floor first. Let it harden, and then do the walls another day. Or the other way around. But if you do the walls first be sure that the grout joints on the floor are cleaned out at the end of the day. You will not have fun trying to get it out afterward.
I would probably do the floor first myself.

There is a picture at the bottom of this post of the sponges and grout float I am using these days.
You want a firm grout float. Be sure to press lots of grout into the joint, then hold the float around 90deg angle from the tile and squeegee off the excess grout (diagonaly across the joints so that you don't dig grout out)
You need a really rough sponge to do the first clean up, to break up the grout on the tile surface. I found the ones below at Rona. not sure if all Rona locations stock them.

Its not like normal grout. You want lots of water for cleanup. Your first pass with the rough sponge will leave a slurry and mess all over the tile. Be careful to not dig too much into the joints or they will be too low when you are done. Circular motion across the joints, scrub off any on the tile surface as you go, leave the mess behind.

Next you need a normal grout sponge. Wring it out slightly, but still wet. Not dripping, but wet. Wipe lightly across the joints on an angle again not digging much if any out. Just clean up the slurry. Rinse your sponge, and then go back over the area you just cleaned. This time I go with the joints with a very wet clean sponge and a light touch. You aren't trying to clean anything with this pass, just using the sponge to smoothen out the joints. If your sponge is too dry, you will be pulling out grout. You shouldn't be pulling out grout at this point, just sliding over the surface and smoothing it out.

Go over the whole area and clean/smooth/finish the joints the best you can. You don't have a whole lot of time for all of this, I think the working time is around an hour, though I usually find I have a bit more.

And the next pass I use a new, clean sponge and new water with dishsoap. I find the soap helps a lot cleaning the residue off the surface of the tile. I'm not sure if this is recommended or not, but It works for me. I haven't had anything but good results doing it this way, and it saves me time.

For this pass I am just cleaning. If I find any bumps/holes in the grout I fix them as I go, but it should be almost done at this point. Just clean in one direction and wash your sponge after every pass.

Finally I let the surface of the tile dry, and then look it over. If there are streaks left behind then you need to clean it again. If not (hopefully) then you should be done.

Plug your drain. I shove an old sponge down there to keep the crap out. You don't want epoxy down there. Happened to me once, not a good day! :(
I just use an old shop vac to clean up any water as I go rather than letting it down the drain. At the very end of the job I pour several buckets of clean water down the drain just to be sure its clean.

Its probably not exactly (or even close?) to the instructions from Mapei. I did originally read them and follow them, but I've gone off of that and found what works for me so I'm sticking with it.
I'm just trying to help, but if in doubt, ignore me and follow the instructions.

Some pics.
The sponges/float I use
Cleaning the slurry
soapy water
finished

jim_c
04-22-2013, 07:59 PM
Thank you JW for the thorough reply. I really appreciate it and it will be very helpful.

Sorry John if I was / am off topic. I was anxious to contact JW and was unable to do it any other way. (PM did not work for his handle.)

Perhaps someone could remove the last two or three posts starting with my request and put this into a new thread in the general section. There are lots of posts about epoxy grout but not specifically about Mapei which has a different system. Most of the info I searched was about Spectralock.

Thanks for your forbearance. This was very helpful to me.
Jim C.

jim_c
04-22-2013, 08:45 PM
I finished tiling today. Golf course opens tomorrow! Oh darn, I still have to grout.

JWM posted a VERY very helpful description of how to do epoxy grout in the Pro Hangout section. I am very thankful.

I've posted in that thread (which was supposed to be about Fusion grout) and asked to have the info moved over here into this thread or a new thread. I am particularly interested in Mapei Kerapoxy which has a two part system.

dhagin
04-22-2013, 09:12 PM
I finished tiling today. Golf course opens tomorrow! Oh darn, I still have to grout.

Ya know, letting the mortar under the tile cure for another day or 2 will allow more moisture to leave and increase your chances of a great grout job. ;)


....your welcome. :D

Kerapoxy isn't as user friendly as, say, SpectraLOCK, but if you're diligent with following instructions and prepared, there's no reason it can't turn out great. Have your cleaning water mixes ready before mixing the grout. Spread the grout out after mixing to keep it from goin off too fast. :)

jim_c
04-26-2013, 07:32 PM
I received my grout yesterday and after much discussion it was decided that this bucket is not overage, although it is close, almost two years old.
I bought the U.S. gallon size and intend to split it into portions as it is suggested that one should only try to do a quart (whatever that is) at a time. So I determined that the product consists of part A (powder) and part B (hardener). In this size there is 5,774 grams part A and 626 grams part B, so the ratio is 9.22 to 1. Or said another way, there is 6400 g total product to start with, and hardener (B) is just under 10% of it (9.8%). So I will now use the first portion for my shower floor and I'll measure out 1500 grams of A and 163 grams of B = 1663 grams. Wish me luck!! Scary, eh?

2BPS
04-26-2013, 08:31 PM
Good Luck Jim! You are brave to be diving into the epoxy grout. I'm very anxious to hear about your impressions and results. I will have to make the grout decision someday soon myself. Good idea about splitting it into smaller batches. You must have access to a very accurate scale!

PC7060
04-26-2013, 09:58 PM
Jim, good luck on the grouting. I'm planning to use spectralock but will be interested to see how the kerapoxy works for you. Your shower looks great and im sure you are looking forward to completing the grout.

On a frivolous note I wonder if Mapei did consumer surveys before they released the product? Kerapoxy sounds like something you should a dr. about. Now spectralock, that sounds like a charactor from Xmen. :foilhat:

jim_c
04-27-2013, 03:53 PM
Thx for the comments. I need all the support I can get with this stuff.
I made up a small test batch to check the grout colour. French Vanilla. The product looks exactly like the little sample #13. It really does take 24 hrs to harden up to a point where it is "quite hard". I expect it will continue to get rock hard over another day. I grouted the shower floor today and it was "interesting" to say the least. There are a lot of pros and cons.
I'll post some pics and some more opinions in a day or so. I still have to do the walls of course, in a few days. Don't be rushing out to buy this product until you hear my final answer. lol. :calm:

wilander
04-27-2013, 04:23 PM
perfect beer drinking weather today Jim and you are grouting a floor? Where are your priorities??? :yeah: i'm sure it will turn out fine.

jim_c
04-29-2013, 06:54 PM
Don't worry, I get my daily ration of good Canadian beer.
Like today, e.g. a couple of Bavaria! $2/500 mL.

I talked to Mapei again today and the tech rep says the ratio of A (solid) to B (liquid hardener) is supposed to be about 90/10 as I suspected.

jim_c
05-03-2013, 03:44 PM
We finished the grouting today on the shower.
Linda helped by rinsing sponges and handing me stuff.
I will post some pics and comments later about the epoxy grout effort.
At this stage it looks good and I'm glad I used it but.....

jim_c
05-07-2013, 04:15 PM
I think I'm done. High five!
I will post some pics and some comments about the epoxy grout.
The glass doors come tomorrow.
This bathroom is about 14' x 12'. I did the tub surround and the floor about 5 years ago. I'm so glad I waited to do the shower as this site has been extremely helpful. I did not have the knowledge to do this before but we live and learn. Any questions about Schluter or epoxy, ask away.

jim_c
05-07-2013, 04:19 PM
Colours look a bit off due to lighting.

2BPS
05-07-2013, 06:07 PM
WOW!!! :tup2:

I really like those "portrait" large format tiles. You did a beautiful job. I am anxious to hear everything you're willing to share about the epoxy grout as I am on the fence. You suggested it might not have all been a bed of roses...

Congratulations on the shower. Really looks inviting. I am also very interested to see what you are doing for shower glass and get your thoughts on that (and how much it set you back if you're willing to share).

Is that Schluter edging along the front? I am using Rondec on mine in that location...any pointers?

jim_c
05-07-2013, 07:17 PM
Thanks.
I used some aluminum J molding to hide the cut edge at the front.
It's just no-name but it looks good, discreet and blends in. I used several pieces of narrow masking tape to hold the trim in place then tiled up to and into it. The thinset holds the trim in place after tiling. I didn't choose the Schluter trim because the tile edge does not go inside it, it just butts up to it.

The large tiles look good but there are lots of little errors that most folks wouldn't notice. It's hard to get all the corners perfectly flat.

The epoxy grout is great looking and IFF the benefits work out as advertised I will be very pleased with it. It is actually not hard to use but you have to improvise a bit as you go. The water cleanup of the tiles is very nice. You can shape and smooth the grout lines when they are wet as they are starting to set up. You can patch or fix minor imperfections after by just adding a small bit of fresh grout and smoothing it over. Plus it's good for up to 3/8" and won't crack. The lines around my drain are a bit fatter than I would have liked but they are straight and even so it looks OK. My biggest complaint about the grout is that cleaning up tools and sponges and hands is almost impossible. It sticks to any plastic and will not come off - like the handles of your trowels and floats, screwdrivers, etc. Prepare to just throw your sponges away after the job. BUT, so far I think the hassle is worth it because it definitely looks way better than regular grout and it supposedly will not stain or deteriorate with time. Oh yeah, I used about 80% of a U.S. gallon size package and it cost $100.

PC7060
05-08-2013, 07:15 PM
Very nice work Jim!

wilander
05-10-2013, 12:33 PM
looks very nice. well done

Pete1972
05-10-2013, 12:41 PM
Nicely done, Jim. Very, very tidy looking install. :tup2:

jim_c
05-10-2013, 03:13 PM
Thanks for the comments.
Glass consists of a "frameless" panel and a sliding door on roller wheels.
Looks great but needs a small adjustment to be smoother in operation.
I am sure Doors and More will remedy.
We are now about to take our first showers; we will save water since the shower is big enough to fit two at a time! Woohoo! :topicoff:
(Had to wait 48 hrs. for the silicone to set.)

Pics below. There is no window in the shower, it's a reflection.

MattamyRed
05-10-2013, 04:33 PM
Great job Jim! Did you do the door/hardware install yourself?

2BPS
05-10-2013, 07:56 PM
Jim that looks beautiful. What is the approximate size of your shower? What size are the doors? I don't think I can use a slider like that, not enough room. Sure looks great though.

Do you know what thickness of glass is used in yours?

jwmezzanotte
05-10-2013, 09:08 PM
Looks great Jim, glad the grouting went well.

Heidi,
Maxx makes a similar door kit to the one Jim has used for both 5' and 4' openings and can be shrunk a few inches by trimming the top rail. Ive used them a couple times, pretty good for the cost of them.

Curious about your door also Jim. I like it!

jim_c
05-11-2013, 06:51 AM
The glass, called The Roller Door, was done by Doors and More, a company that works in the GTA here. (Greater Toronto Area - I think "greater" means larger, not wonderful.)
There are many similar kits available and we looked at them all but we felt this model was most impressive. It's custom made to fit the 53.5" width and 83" high. Glass is 3/8", approx. 10 mm thick.

The first use last night went well! We were of course anxious to test the hardware, showerheads, etc. etc. The drain took all the water away instantly and everything is dry as a bone this a.m. I have done lots of plumbing work over the years but it still makes me nervous.

Both showerheads can be on at the same time and the flow volume was .......voluminous. The thermostatic control kept the water temp the same at any volume setting - amazing!

Thanks to JWM for advising on the Kerapoxy. Appreciate it. Grout looks great. Wifey was shocked when I told her she does not have to scrub it with Tilex and bleach every few weeks like the frikkin builder's shower.

jim_c
05-11-2013, 07:08 AM
Couple more thoughts about how we did it.
The pot light in the ceiling is approved for shower environment and matches the others in this bathroom. It really adds to the "luxury" impression when everything is clean and sparkling. (Copied that from my neighbour btw.)
The handheld showerhead is in lieu of a spout - there is no traditional spout down low. The hose on the handheld is about 6' long so it can reach all the far corners for rinsing down. They come in various lengths.

davem
05-11-2013, 07:12 AM
Jim, your shower is just beautiful. Professional quality design and execution. Bravo! :tup2::bow::tup2:

jim_c
05-11-2013, 07:13 AM
This will prob be the end of my epic shower story.
Thanks again to all who contribute advice and ideas on here; it really is of tremendous assistance. (I have nightmares imagining that CX might chastise me for some faux pas I have committed, but I do appreciate it.)
I hope my description of the work will be useful to some other folks tackling similar projects. I have enjoyed the banter with other diy geeks like myself and I'll try to keep in touch with the forum although I hope I have no immediate plans for more tiling work.
Jim C.

ss3964spd
05-11-2013, 08:42 AM
..we will save water since the shower is big enough to fit two at a time!
I consider the water savings as a secondary bonus.:D

Looks great, Jim, simply great. Congratulations on a fine job.

Do have a questions though. I'm still in the noodling stages of my master bath remodel but using a sliding glass shower door much like yours is more than likely. Both panes may slide but haven't figured that out yet.

Regardless, I'm interested to know what hardware you used to keep the rolling door in place when open and when closed. By in place I mean so that it isn't just flopping around, especially if someone bumps it. Would love to see some pics of that detail.

2BPS
05-11-2013, 09:10 AM
Wishing you many, many years of happy couple showers. :goodluck:

Enjoy it, you deserve it and have definitely earned it. First class job. :bow:

cx
05-11-2013, 09:32 AM
Nice job on the shower. You can be proud to have your name on that one. :) (I have nightmares imagining that CX might chastise me for some faux pas I have committed, but I do appreciate it.)CX doesn't chastize, he merely points out that which could be problematic. He must constantly earn his title as the site's official Picky Bastard, non? :shades:

My opinion; worth price charged.

Tiling SB
05-11-2013, 10:29 AM
And you do muy buen trabajo at it CX :D

PC7060
05-12-2013, 08:22 AM
Great work Jim! Like the sliding glass door, the Chrome elements tie it in nicely to the controls. The large format tile looks great too. Very professional (JB Forum Pro level!)