View Full Version : Cutting long lengths
07-08-2012, 07:31 PM
I have a cULus CTC 550 with 7 5/8 " blade. The longest length it will cut is 5 3/4". Please see image. Is there a way to have it cut longer lengths. Is the guard in the way? Can I remove the guard behind the blade?
07-08-2012, 07:36 PM
Welcome to the forum.
Normally the metal part behind the blade is in alignment with the blade so you can cut much longer than that length.
Can you take another picture further to the right?
Tool Guy - Kg
07-08-2012, 11:13 PM
Welcome to the forum, Catherine. :wave:
With a "table saw" type of wet saw like you have, you can cut unlimited length tiles. But inexpensive saws like that sometime have goofy little flaws....like the splitter portion of the guard (the part that divides the two pieces of tile after they are pushed past the saw blade) is sometimes a little too wide and causes the tile to bind as it passes the blade.
07-09-2012, 07:59 PM
Thanks for the replies. Here is a close up. I thought that maybe the alignment was off and hindered it to pass through. I tried bending it slightly but it isn't working. Do you think I should try to remove the the back guide or just need to align it better.
07-09-2012, 08:02 PM
I havent used a saw of that type for years, but I think if you were to take the guard off it would probably toss a lot of water/debris ( guess mostly water off the back of the blade, since the blade cuts downward on its way through) up toward your face. Doesnt sound fun to me.
Probably better to fix the guard.
07-09-2012, 08:15 PM
What John said,
Align the guard better. Use a straight edge. If you're lucky you'll break it and have to buy a decent wet saw :stick:
07-09-2012, 08:21 PM
It looks like 2 screws back there. Are those for guard adjustment?
Tool Guy - Kg
07-09-2012, 09:44 PM
You might wanna do a little test. Cut a few inches into a spare tile and back it out. Turn off the saw and go around to the backside of the saw with the tile. Slide the cut slot over the backside of the splitter:-If it doesn't bind, then you need to adjust the splitter so that it's directly in-line with the blade. Even a slight misalignment causes binding, so you may need to fiddle with it a few times to get it aligned. The screws are for lateral adjustment. And if the splitter isn't at the same angle as the blade, you'll need to bend it so it is.
-But if the slot in the tile binds on the splitter, you need to either increase the width of the blade or reduce the width of the splitter. Tile saw blades consist of an outer cutting rim that is wider than the width of the blade's body. This keeps the blade's body from binding as it travels through the freshly cut slot (kerf). Sometimes...not saying that this is what's happened with your saw...but sometimes folks use the side of the blade excessively and wear down one side of the cutting rim. If the cutting rim width is reduced, it cuts a narrower slot and may be the reason it's binding on the splitter. If that's the case, it may be time to replace the blade. But if the side of the blade hasn't been used excessively, it may be a simple matter of an inexpensive tool with a splitter that's a wee bit wide. Many pros have owned a saw like this in their career and I'm no different. I couldn't stand the saw I owned because the splitter was way too wide and the tile would bind. I returned the unit before I could finish a single job with it. If I were to have kept it, I would have used a metal file to remove a little metal from each side of the splitter. :)
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