Adjusting Grout Color

[strut]

Hey guys,

The bathroom project that will not end has entered a new phase. I've gotten the floor and shower tiled and grouted and now it's time to seal them both. However, although they were supposed to match, the non-sanded grout in the shower is much lighter than the sanded grout used on the floor (both are Custom Building Products - Antique White).

I noticed that there's a TYW product for staining sanded grout, but are there similar products for non-sanded grouts that I can use to tone-down the grout to match the sanded grout on the floor?

Steve

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[Mike2]

Steve:

Based upon my own recent experience, just a word of caution about your non-sanded grout. I’ve been having unexplained problems with some batches of Custom’s non-sanded grout accepting anything (impregnator, enhancer, water, etc.) without turning blochy. So whatever you decide to do with your un-sanded grout in the shower, I encourage you to create some samples and run a few tests.
:)

[John Bridge]

Hi Steve,

I don't think the stain works well on non-sanded grout. We've started a new tile care, maintenance forum. I'll move you there. ;)

[kemguru]

Hi Steve :)

Unsanded grout does not allow a Stain to penetrate as well as sanded does. Use a colorant. I like Aqua Mix. Recolor the wall joints, use an impregnator on the floor joints. A colorant will “smother” the joints, and we need to make sure your shower floor can breathe. It needs to unload excess moisture wherever it can and the joints are just one area where this happens.


Mike

Interesting! What’s up? :)

[strut]

Mike,

I'm assuming that the colorant is brushed on (like a paint) and seals the grout at the same time so I wouldn't have to go over it a second time with a clear sealer. Is this the case? With a mosaic band around the shower and 1" tiles on the floor, bench and niches, there's allot of grout to cover.

Another concern, is there a chance that the colorant will wear differently over time and create a "multi-colored" shower experience? Also, I'm not sure what an "impregnator" is or if it too can be colored.

I'm starting to think that I might be better off living with grout that's a little lighter than I like.

Steve

[Mike2]

Tim:

I wish I knew what was up with this Customs un-sanded grout I got. It’s crapola! :crap:

Let me be more specific: Customs un-sanded Natural Gray #9, batch # 0304301C turns very blochy (almost white in spots) when you wet it down with anything; anything like Stone Beauty, Stone Armor, Toluene, water, etc., etc., etc. I have created 8 test samples now using this batch of grout with identical crappy results. These blotches remain permanently after using Stone Beauty, but go away with Stone Armor, once it dries.

On the other hand, all of the test samples I ran using Custom’s sanded version of Natural Gray #9 are fine. Likewise, I’m having no problems with Customs Dove Gray #370 in either sanded or non-sanded forms.

:bow: Thank God for this forum and that advice Tim and John gave me when I ordered my can of Stone Beauty; that advice being “Be sure to test it first”. I just spent at least 100 hours on a fireplace and was going down the path of un-sanded Natural Gray enhanced with Stone Beauty. That would have been a disaster. Based upon my tests I switched colors, to unsanded Dove Gray with Stone Beauty and the results are fantastic.

So Steve, at the risk of being redundant, test, test, test whatever your gonna do to your grout, whether it’s staining it or enhancing it.
:shades:

[John Bridge]

Steve,

I think you should live with the grout color you have. Colorant is a trial to do on small tiles. On the other hand, you can seal them and the grout with Stone Armor by wiping over the entire surface and then buffing it off with dry clean rags. You can't allow excess product to dry on the surface.

Mike,

Have you tried cleaning the joints with vinegar? You might have a little scum on the surface of the joints. Scrub it a little.

[strut]

Hey John,
That's the way I'm leaning... I guess next time I'll know enough to test first.
Steve

[Mike2]

Good idea John. I'll give the vinegar a shot tomorrow morn.

:cool:

[kemguru]

Test a small area first, Mike :D

[John Bridge]

Nah, flood the sucker. Tim's always so cautious. ;)

[Mike2]

You Nailed it JB.

Vinegar [50:50], 15 - 20 minute soak with lotsa scrub, 3M Green Pad, removed all that crappola. Howdaja no dattwas scum?? Been dare bee4 I'm guessin.

While we're scummin around here, did I (scumbag) do that, operator error, or is this just sumthang that happends ever now and then wift grout. Seems kinda strange to me got none of that scumola with the other grouts in my bucket.

Anyway, I'm a happy camper now knowing what caused it, and how to fix it. :)

Thanks for being here guys!! :bow:

[John Bridge]

Mike,

There are basically two things that go wrong with grout jobs, and both have to do with excess water in the joints. One is a mild case of efflorescense which will succumb to the acid, and the other is latex migration to the surface when using modified cement grout. The latex is harder to clean up, but the point is, both of these deposits are only on the surface, and you can usually remove the surface with a little acid. :)

So it's not really a luck guess. It's damn near a slam dunk. :)


P.S. I forgot about number three. It's also possible to draw a discoloration out of the thin set if the thin set is not allowed to dry before grouting, but I figure you're probably not fast enough to incur that problem. :D