View Full Version : 18" x 18" and 13" x 13" hopscotch tile pattern tile needed
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bd234 - Tue Mar 23 10:37:29 2010
I am having a hard time figuring out how much tile I need for a 385 sq ft area, hopscotch, 18" x 18" and 13" x 13", 1/8" grout lines. Any clue on how to figure this besides laying them out?
Also, how much extra for waste?
And...any experience w/ Emser porcelain tile?
bbcamp - Tue Mar 23 10:46:19 2010
Did you find our Tile Estimator?
bd234 - Wed Mar 24 22:05:28 2010
Wow, big help! Thanks! I decided to go with a 17 13/16" sq tile. Does the calculator assume 18" is 18".
Also, when it recommends tile, is that taking into account waste at 20%?
dhagin - Wed Mar 24 22:41:46 2010
I just ran a 10x10 room with 12x12 tile and it came to 104 sqft. So, 4% over for that floor.
I would assume those tile sizes are nominal for coverage sake. For your project figure 5-7% over. If it's many rooms that tie together or chopped up, maybe a little higher 8-12%.
bd234 - Sat Mar 27 11:09:35 2010
I decided to go with Roman Noce, 18" and 12" in hopscotch. Can I get away with 1/8" grout lines even though these tiles are short 3/16"; if they will walk will it be noticeable? Longest span is 32' x 7'7".
Old World Tile and Marble - Sat Mar 27 11:15:46 2010
your hopscotch will decide grout joint
bd234 - Sat Mar 27 11:20:26 2010
sorry, not getting it....
cx - Sat Mar 27 11:27:02 2010
He's telling you there is only one grout joint that will work with the two actual tile sizes you have, Bridgette. You gotta lay some out or measure a bunch of'em and do the math to see what that is.
Old World Tile and Marble - Sat Mar 27 11:32:55 2010
sry basically cx got you covered the pattern ultimatly dictates the size id dry lay at least 3 of each to see if you get a little variation in tile size and youll get your average joint size
these tiles from the same company same tile line just different sixes and color or are they mixed ?
bd234 - Sat Mar 27 11:57:33 2010
ok, gotcha. just dif't sizes; all else the same. should i just dry lay the whole thing cause i'm such a novice?
cx - Sat Mar 27 12:12:52 2010
I'd suggest you lay enough to get a feel for it, Bridgette. Enough at least to determine your pattern and where you want your layout lines.
Old World Tile and Marble - Sat Mar 27 12:13:42 2010
up to you, but id lay out a few dozen just to get a feel for the sizing use this to measure off of for your layout and joint size
bd234 - Tue Mar 30 18:43:02 2010
ok, will do. I wasn't sure if I should start a new thread b/c I have another question but it is another topic. Well here goes. The subfloors of the kitchen and family room are approximately 1/4" off level. The length of different heights is about 4'. Are there any transition strips or easy fixes I am missing for this situation?
bd234 - Mon Apr 12 07:01:04 2010
I have gotten some great advice on this project in another thread but the ?s keep coming up so I thought I'd lump them.
We have drylayed the entire kitchen in 18" and 12"sq hopscotch with 1/8" groutlines. We plan to lay with Laticrete 254 over the membrane Dal-seal. Any suggestions on a good place to start and technique on how much to remove and lay and how to remove without shifting the pattern.
See pic for clarity...
bbcamp - Mon Apr 12 07:14:26 2010
Bridgette, go around the perimeter of the room and mark the walls where the groutlines are. Then take up the tiles, do any last prep work on the floor, then snap some grid lines on the floor using the marks you made on the walls. With a hopscotch pattern, you won't need to make a line for every tile, but enough to guide you as you set the tiles. A couple of good pictures of your dry layout will remind you if needed.
Gridlines make it possible to start anywhere in the room, and work around obstructions like islands and divider walls.
jondon - Mon Apr 12 07:19:25 2010
Nice job on laying all that out, takes patience to do all that but now you know how its gonna look. I would start on one end, leave a row in, pull the rest up. Now once you have that last row in, trace around it with something you will be able to read on the floor. So as you lift each piece up and cement it in, you know exactly where it went as a guide. Those first ones you lift and cement back in you can backbutter and set them back into place without covering your guide lines on the floor. As your lifting up your floor tiles you can go ahead and trace some more of the tiles if it will make you more comfy as guide points so you know your on track.:tup1:
Yes....what Bob just said,,,,,,grid lines!
bd234 - Thu Apr 15 11:03:56 2010
Will do! One more question I can't seem to visualize correctly. On the grout grid lines, do I snap on the north and east for examples of each grout space since the chalk lines are not 1/8" wide?
bd234 - Sun Apr 18 16:02:46 2010
Started the tile but won't be able to complete the room today. It is ok to start and stop a floor area like that?
Houston Remodeler - Sun Apr 18 16:04:55 2010
Before we stop for the day I always check to make sure the tiles are in a straight line on the open edge. Use a nice long straight edge, laser or string to check. If the tiles are in a crescent, now is the time to fix it.
bd234 - Thu Apr 22 09:00:40 2010
Whew, I was worried! Thanks!
I have extra sealer and I was wondering it applying it to the porcelain would aid as a grout releaser. We are using Spectralock?
Also have this bath tile project with the lots of ridged mastic residue on the wall after the 4" tile removal. Would the best route be to just cover up the drywall with another layer and CBU the shower part? Plan to use Kerdi but local code requires CBU.
bbcamp - Thu Apr 22 10:19:43 2010
Glazed porcelain doesn't need a grout release, unless it has lots of texture. Spectralok cleans up easily from most tile, but you do want to stay with it until you are sure the tile are clean. Epoxy haze is no fun.
Your bathroom is pretty small. Do you really want to give up the space by adding a layer of sheetrock over what you have now? Since you are already doing the tub surround, it's not that much more to remove the old drywall and install fresh, clean material. It also gives you the oppportunity to re-route wiring, move switches or light fixtures, or add sound-deadening insulation in the walls.
bd234 - Tue Apr 27 09:41:49 2010
OK, got it all cleared out and cleaned up. I was wondering though how to remove a black stick adhesive from the 3/4" ply? Intend to install nobleseal with nobleseal ext.
Also, does this order sound right? R13 fiberglass insulation, 6 mil vapor barrier, yellow water mold resistant drywall on walls and hardibacker in shower with kerdi over it?
Finally, know any good vinyl windows or where to get them?
Thanks as usual!
bbcamp - Tue Apr 27 10:06:20 2010
black stick adhesiveI think this means "cutback" adhesive. It's used to glue vinyl tiles to the floor. You scrape it off the plywood with a razor scraper. Keep at it until all you can see is a brown stain. Do not try to use a chemical stripper. That will make a film that will soak into the wood and potentially defeat the thinset bond. Do not use a belt sander, either. That will create dust that you may inhale. Cutback may contain asbestos, which is safe as long as the cutback remains in a solid form and does not become an airborne dust. There are thinsets that are rated for use over cutback, or Noble has an adhesive that you could use.
As for the walls, you don't need a vapor barrier in the walls where you are using Kerdi. Where the backerboard/Kerdi ends, the vapor barrier should overlap behind the backerboard by 6 or so inches.
bd234 - Wed Apr 28 11:43:57 2010
Thanks Bob! I am now steering towards leaving the cutback and applying Latapoxy 300 then tile. The half bucket size is just the amt i need. would this work since its a bathroom?
Also, what thickness cbu and drywall should i install to get the shower and bathroom walls flush? Kerdi and 3/8" tile on shower, 3/8" tile on bath walls. Is Kerdi 1/8" thick installed?
bbcamp - Wed Apr 28 12:08:28 2010
Did you talk with any of Laticrete's tech support folks about your application? Most manufacturers require that the bulk of the cutback adhesive be removed by scraping the slab until only a shadow or stain is visible. I would be very much surprised if Laticrete is any different.
Kerdi is 8 mills thick. You can feather thinset out past where the Kerdi stops and you won't see the transition in the tile work.
bd234 - Mon May 17 21:47:51 2010
Sunroom/kitchen tile is done and epoxy grouted. Besides having to return to it a week later with a buffer and soft scrub to remove haze, all went smooth and we love it.
On to the bathroom. Here's the plan. Only question is with the window sill. With densshield and tile, the top of the tile with cover up some of the bottom of the glass block. Is this ok? Feedback would be extremely helpful!
Move 2x4s to create correct rough opening
Apply Protecto Wrap Window and Door Sealing/flashing Tape to exterior exposed frame
Install glass block window flush with exterior
Densshield tub walls and inner window frame abutting to the vinyl channel
Kerdi fix seal the densshield where it meets the window
Redguard/hydro ban or similar over all seams and all fasteners
bbcamp - Tue May 18 07:21:36 2010
It's OK to cover the glass block if necessary, but, since you are re-framing the wall to accomodate the block, why not incorporate a spacer so the glass is fully exposed?
bd234 - Tue May 18 08:10:38 2010
So the spacer would go btw the vinyl channel and the 2x4 rough frame? Would it be plywood? Does the rest sound ok?
bbcamp - Tue May 18 09:41:41 2010
I think solid wood would be better. You have to consider how you are going to trim the outside. Also, the waterproofing should still be adhered/sealed to the plastic window frame to protect the wood on the inside.
Otherwise, I think your plan is OK.
bd234 - Tue May 18 15:19:07 2010
I thought protecto wrap would work but I guess that isn't a trim. Here's a pic of the exterior. The frame will be 1" smaller all around than the existing rough opening. I have no idea what to use....some kind of metal flashing i guess but does it go on before the vinyl channel and curve over to meet the existing trim frame?
bd234 - Tue May 18 22:19:06 2010
is this what i should be looking for?
bbcamp - Wed May 19 08:11:13 2010
That's a preformed flashing. You use it to direct water away from the joint between the brick molding (wood trim seen in the Lowe's picture) and the sheathing.
You could do something like that with your glass blocks, execpt I'm not sure how flush you want the glass to be on the outside. I would expect that for your house's exterior, you'd want a stop of some sort, surrounded by a moulding, then the flashing. This wouldn't be exactly flush, but would look attractive and in keeping with your home's design.
bbcamp - Wed May 19 08:58:11 2010
Here's what I thought we were talking about:
bd234 - Wed May 19 19:43:07 2010
Actually I am just trying to avoid having to remove the existing house trim around the current window. When I remove it, I believe there will be the 2x4 frame and then an additional inner 1" wood frame within that frame. The existing window has the build in trim or flash so I was looking for one that is 2.5" to cover the increased frame width. Make any sense at all?
bd234 - Wed May 19 21:29:28 2010
more along this line... and there is a sill pic here as well:
bd234 - Wed Jun 2 23:33:45 2010
Please let me know if this method will work. I am getting ready to start.
Attached is a closeup of the window frame.
Drylay vinyl, vent and glass block
Create correct rough opening for glass block
Apply Protecto Wrap Window and Door Sealing/flashing Tape to frame
Flash exterior to under and around glass block
install niche so it is flush with CBU
Install CBU on walls and inner glass block frame
Mesh tape joints and seams, screw holes
Thinset all but around window and niche
Apply 2 coats of Red guard to theses CBU joints and seams, screw holes around window
Install vinyl framed glass block and vent per instructions
bd234 - Sat Jun 5 20:30:06 2010
We decided to go the mortar only method for our glass block window. We removed the existing window and reframed to fit the new window and vent and trimed off approx 1/2" so the tile on the interior frame will be just outside the window. Lots of pics here. We plan to protecto wrap the exterior but not sure about interior frame? I listed our planned steps in the last post but I am just wingin' it. Also no clue as to what kind of flashing to install where. Plan on felt and 1/2" hardibacker in the shower.
Any advice would be GREATLY appreciated!
Davestone - Sat Jun 5 21:21:29 2010
Here's a good site,they use pvc tracking,you may want to use tile on the inside,so you would need to wire,mud(or cbu),then waterproofand tile whatever you will tile. http://www.doityourself.com/stry/install-glass-block-window
bd234 - Wed Jun 9 13:11:12 2010
Thanks! I found a product like the vinyl channel but better. Its called Suresill from HD and header. They will allow the window to tie into the exterior house waterproofing. These on the top and bottom, protecto wrap all around and hardie backer with redgard on the interior and epoxy grout, it outta be good and waterproofed!
bd234 - Fri Sep 3 18:36:07 2010
Any suggestions from here on out? Plan to do row 2-5 and install vinyl window vent at top.
bd234 - Thu Sep 30 20:24:15 2010
The window and vent are done and I plan to use Spectralock grout (same on tile) on the interior but am at a loss as to how to seal the mortar joints on the exterior.
Thanks in advance.
bd234 - Wed Apr 20 21:21:19 2011
Thanks so much for all the advice! We love our new tile floor and bathroom!
dhagin - Wed Apr 20 23:13:07 2011
Reeeeeally nice Bridgette. You have every right to be proud of all that. :tup2: