I am looking for tips on removing the old ceramic wall tile around the edge and front of the old tub. Using a grout cutting tip on a rotary tool won't work because of too narrow of a gap between tiles (1/32" - 1/16"). Someone advised using a reciprocating saw to cut between tiles through plaster board (1958 era, no drywall or wonderboard) and removing tile from plaster board by soaking in bucket of water. But what about studs in the wall and chipping tiles? The tiles are old and we can't find new to math and we don't want to re-tile the whole room. Thanks for any help!

Hi Breszel, Welcome. :) I'm not sure whether you want to remove the tile installation completely or just remove certain broken tiles from walls. If you want to tear out the installation, get a small sledge hammer and a dust mask. In 1958 most tile jobs were done over cement mortar, not drywall. You need to break the walls into sections you can carry. If you want to remove one tile at a time without damaging adjacent tiles, you need to pulvarized it starting in the middle of the tile and chipping very carfully toward the edges. I have a little article posted on my real web site. ;) http://johnbridge.com/replacing_a_wall_tile.htm

I think John is saying that it's unlikely you'll be able to salvage your tiles. It may be better to find a complementing color or style to create an accent

thanks guys for the quick replies. I was hoping for more encouraging news. I was hoping to be able to get out three or so rows of tiles above and in front of the old bath tub to replace the tub. We haven't been able to find a matching color of tile to allow for breaking them out and the entire room is tiled. The bath enclosure is tiled to within 12" of the ceiling and the remaining wall space is tiled about 1/2 way up the wall. There is already another complinentary color border tile but we can't match that either. (walls are pinkish tan with brown border tiles). If I break out one tile is it within the realm of possibility to take out the neighboring tiles in tact by chipping away at the plaster behind? I am willing to put in long tedious hours to avoid retiling the whole room and I am not confident in the acrylic liners (bath fitters) or the spray jobs to cover that old worn (and baby blue) bath tub, we are taking all the blue stuff out (toilet and sink, too).

Hello Breszel, Long, tedious, and being very careful you can likely remove some adjacent tile. You'll then need to grind off mortar from the back of the tiles in order to reset them. If you've the patience, it can be done, but it's still risky. The tiles could pop before the mortar loosens.

I guess we have some soul searching to do. I will try all of the tile stores again and see if we can find a match, that would be the best solution. I can't see adding a third color. Thanks for the feed back everybody.

You may be better off calling some restoration supply houses or salvage yards, they'd come closer to having what you need.

Now I understand the situation. I don't usually recommend the tub refinishing processes that go on in this business, but in this case I think I'd be looking into it. Like everything else, there are good and bad experiences. I honestly don't think you'll be able to salvage many tiles -- If any. Mud showers are built to resist that sort of thing. :) Furthermore, you can't get a tub out by removing only three rows of tile. You need more room than that at one end of the other to raise the tub up so that the front skirt or it will clear the stud cavities. It usually takes 6 or 7 rows at one end, plus you have to be able to move it laterally in order to do that.

Here is an update: pleasant surprise and a revelation. We decided to "strap 'em on" and move forwardly boldly, or maybe blindly, probably a bit of both. Luckily I have been able to remove more than half of the tiles I intended on removing without breaking a single tile! It appears as though some moisture has worked it's way in between the tiles toward the faucet side and the tiles have been coming up taking a thin layer of plaster. The surface behind the tile consists of two layers of plaster each with it's own paper liner. The work has been easier in some places than others. The tough tiles I worked free by removing the plaster from behind the tile through with a rough file, a putty knife and or old screwdiver. The revelation part of this is that since the new americast tub will be only 14" high as opposed to the existing 16" high we will need more tile anyway, so we will add a few rows of tiles of a complimentary color turned 45 degrees to help give it an intentional design look rather than the old "we couldn't find the right color tile" look. Bye the way, in the Buffalo NY area there does not appear to be any businesses that deal in salvaged items for the home. There is a place in Rochester called House Parts but they did not have a match.

Okay, Breszel, Don't mean to slow you down, but we're going to have to keep this project on one thread. No one will be able to keep up with you otherwise. Too hard to review. :) Let's use this one now. The easiest way to do it is for you to bookmark it and keep it in you favorite places. It'll always be there waiting for you. I am going to attempt to merge this one with the old one. Pray for me. :D

It worked! :D Great. Sounds like you'll be able to pull it off and make it look like it was a plan from the beginning. I think that makes you a top notch tile setter, because that's pretty much what we try to do -- make people think we know what we're doing, that is. :D

Sorry about starting a new thread, I didn't see the settings for sorting threads and this one wasn't coming up after the weekend, I had to change from now I understand. Anyway, I have question about installing the new tub once I finish getting the tile out (I'm about 75% there with no broken tiles, yet). The existing iron tub looks like it sits on a 2x4 frame and the floor. I plan on installing an Americast to replace it, do I need a cement or sand base on the floor? Also do you recommend the Americast? Crane makes a similar coated steel tub for less than half the cost and there is another manufacture out there, I saw it at Lowes, but I am concerned quality. Thanks

I've installed a number of Americast tubs, and I think the quality is there. The 2x4s that the tub rests on are called ledgers. You may have to adjust the height of them for the new tub. No, you do not need to set the tub in mortar. Just make sure it's well supported on the ledger and on the floor.

Does anyone know what exactly is the Americast made of, I was told it is a steel tub with synthetic liner, but it looks like cast iron (thickness). If it is not iron, how heavy is it compared to iron and compared to steel? I am concerned about wiggling this thing in place and not damaging existing tile, I removed several rows above and in front of old tub. I want a lighter tub that I can handle myself but I want decent quality. Thanks

More Questions: What exactly is Green Board? Also, the old cement/plaster? wall is 3/4" thick. I planned on using wonderboard or handiboard to replace what I have cut away, but 1/2" is the max there, right? So, do I put 1/4" plywood behind it or this Green Board I keep reading about? How thick is Green Board? Regarding moisture barrier - It looks like felt roofing material or "poly" sheet is acceptable. What is this "Poly" - and where would I find it at Home Depot (roofing, siding supplies, tiling)? Thanks for the help and by the way this forum is Great, the entier layout, the way you can search threads for keywords, what a great resource!

Originally posted by breszel Does anyone know what exactly is the Americast made of, I was told it is a steel tub with synthetic liner, but it looks like cast iron (thickness). If it is not iron, how heavy is it compared to iron and compared to steel? I am concerned about wiggling this thing in place and not damaging existing tile, I removed several rows above and in front of old tub. I want a lighter tub that I can handle myself but I want decent quality. Thanks I don't know exactly what the tub is made of, but I just bought one yesterday and it's still in my truck in the driveway! Here's a link to the one I bought on the American Standard website: http://www.americanstandard-us.com/ProductNew.asp?prodID=229 There's a link there that you can click and see the spec sheets, I believe the weight is just over 100 lbs. I don't know much about them, but my plumber and some other folks have recommended them to me, and my new kitchen sink (installed in Feb) is made of the Americast material also, and I love it! Laura.

Laura, if it's only a hundred pounds or so it's not a cast iron for sure. I'm not sure what material Americast are made of, maybe acrylic, I'm not sure. A few questions. How much tile did you take off? I guess 4 or 5 rows up from the tub. What was under the tiles before? You said two layers of something that has paper backing. I wonder if it was two layers of sheet rock or greenboard, since the tiles come off so easy. Just trying to come up with a way to help you get it back in.:)

Laura thanks for the link. I spent quite a bit of time looking for specs and I didn't see that link. You saved my butt! Here's why: I had my mind set on the americast but an employee at Home Depot convinced me that Home Depot's "Americast" was cast-iron (too heavy to wiggle past the old tile), so we bought an Enameled Steel, Eljer or whatever. When we got home I kept thinking that guy was full of you know what so I checked the forum, clicked you link and bam, the americast weighs only 119 lbs. So we took the other tub back an the Americast is sitting in my truck in the driveway 'til tomorrow (sound familiar?). Thanks again. Davy, I took off between 3 and 5 rows, depending on how easy they came up. Some were very easy once the first came up and others were a real pup. I learned to have PATIENCE. So the shape of the hole is uneven but not too bad. I'm not that familiar with these materials so I don't know the difference between sheetrock and greenboard. The house was built in 1957/58 if that helps. Everything in the bathroom is (was) original. Peach colored tile and blue sink/tub/toilet. Anyway, I may put in some 2 x4's where the joints will be (along the edges of the remaining tiles.) Since the thickness of the existing sheetrock (or whatever) is 3/4" I am leaning toward nailing 1/4" plywood up, then moisture barrier then nailing (galvanized roofing nails) 1/2" hardiboard on top of that. Do you have a recommendation for moisture barrier?

I can't spell Breszel. You got a easier name we can use? :) Is this installation to be a tub/shower, or just a tub? I'm a little worried about the integrity of the wall patch job if it's to be a shower. I'm the only one? I've installed a total of two Americast tubs. They seemed to be very solid. Feel better than steel tubs. Hellofa lot easier to handle than cast iron. Nice finish. Can't speak to the longevity. One big one, self-rimming type, had a kinda waffled bottom. I did lay down some mortar to set that one in. Don't know if it was necessary, did it anyway.

cx, you can call me Brian. This is a tub and shower. If you're concern about the patch job centers around the joints where the old meets the new, that's my concern also. Although since it is only a 4-5 rows of tile (unless I end up needing more room to get the tub in which I will find out in a couple of hours), there won't be much weight there. I plan on adding 2x4's along the joint areas, nailed to the original studs so I have something to nail the new backerboard to at the horizontal joints. I would love to hear details on your concerns. Thanks, Brian

Well the tub is in and the tiles are up, what a chore. Of course the old wall behind the tile (sheetrock?) was of different thicknesses in different places, so evening out my new Hardibacker patches was not a quick job. Anyway now to the floor. I used SLC on the old cement bed (1 inch thick bed, only thin layer of SLC) and it worked okay but I still have some high and low spots, maybe a difference of 1/32" in spots or 1/16" at the worst. When I put some tiles down for a dry run some tiles wobble a bit. Is this going to cause my 12" square tiles to sit crooked or crack when they are stepped on later? I think the self leveling would work better if I were putting down 1/2 layer or more but I can't go that high because the old curved bottom border tiles around the base of wall are already at the top edge of the bed, I want to avoid a deep groove at the base of the wall. Do I need to go back and smooth this out or is this degree of unlevelness (is "unlevelness" a word?) acceptable? Many thanks for any help, Brian

I will divert to flatfloor (Jim) if he ever shows up. Likely that you've just got some pimples in your deck that can be knocked off with a chisel or grinder. Depending on what you can live with, the 1/32" may be OK, or too much. What tool do you use to measure 1/32"? Just curious... ;)

I am using a straight edge across the floor and estimating by eye the gap under the 36 inch straight edge in some spots. I don't see "pimples", more like larger areas of high and low spots, varying in size and shape.

I don't think a sixteenth will present a problem once the thin set is down. It will accommodate that much. :)

Thanks John.

You're probably sweating more than you doctor would allow. If it makes you nervous, knock off the high spots. Doctors don't know everything. :)